Broken Motor Mounts

[Joshin33]

UPDATE: GM wouldn't help me at all. My local service dealer discounted by about $35 but that's it. Will mark GM Warranty right up there with the Ford 6.0 Liter I had. Even though they know it's an issue, no help in making it right for the customer. Guess Toyota will be the next brand when it comes time for a change.

 

[Passin Thru]

There was a motor mount for the ppv that is supposed to clear the issue up. I don't remember where I read that.

 

[Chancellor32]

Motor mounts

So we have an 07 GMC Denali 69k miles, found out today the right motor mount is completely separated 481.61$ and the left side is separating 394.11$ Not wanting to pay 900$ just for two motor mounts. Is there something super urgent to fix? We never drive hard, don't accelerate super fast. How can GM make such crappy parts.

 

[tx tahoe z71]

Just replaced the driver's side on my 2009 Tahoe 2wd. Took me about 3 hours, with 30 minutes spent trying to work the old mount out and fit the new one back in and another 30 minutes trying to get the bolt holes to line up between the engine and mount.

Tips that worked for me:
All bolts are 15mm
Did not remove the wheel liner
Removed the header heat shield to give me room to remove the old mount and insert the new one, very tight squeeze
Used a couple of blocks of wood on a floor jack to support the engine from underneath
Removed the middle black corrugated section of the steering shaft for clearance
Power tools are a huge time saver
I worked under the hood and under the truck with plenty of room to get to the bolts
The heat shield on the mount can be bent out of the way, then moved back when you are done
Pick up one of those extendable mirrors at O'reillys so you can see if the bolt holes on the mount and engine are lining up, telling you if you need to go up or down with the engine
Don't snug the bolts down until you have all of them threaded

That's all I got. Not hard for the shade tree mechanic, but if all you have ever done is change your oil, leave it to a professional. Remember, you are supporting a 400lb engine and having your fingers in pinch points, so use extra caution when supporting the engine

 

[andrewlaney]

Just got back from the dealer and have the cracked motor mount as well - what is the cost of this repair?

---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------

I tried to contact GM Customer Service thorugh the forum but didnt have enough posts to qualify to send a PM

---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------

2007 Suburban LTZ - 114k miles

 

[tx tahoe z71]

Just got back from the dealer and have the cracked motor mount as well - what is the cost of this repair?

---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------

I tried to contact GM Customer Service thorugh the forum but didnt have enough posts to qualify to send a PM

---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------

2007 Suburban LTZ - 114k miles

I got the part for $90 on ebay, part number 15854941, same number for diver and passenger side. Check your application though, I heard they had two types of engine mounts.

If you aren't doing it yourself, expect $400-800.

 

[ncampion]

OK, add me to the growing list. Actually this will be the third driver's side mount that I have replaced. 103,000 miles. Can't believe they are so weak. does any one have a more permanent solution? I've tried GM, Anchor mounts, they seem to last about 30,000 no matter which one is in there. ***** of a job also (AWD)

 

[Clean07Burb]

My driver's side mount is bad AGAIN! This sucks. Just replaced it about 6 months ago and now its gotta be done again. Only lasted like 20,000 miles. *************.

 

[dteeters]

I need to do mine what brand did you get?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rcmetrology]

Customer

I have both a 2001 Tahoe and a 2007 Yukon Denali and two other GM Vehicles. The Tahoe has 265,000 and never a single drivetrain problem. The 2007 Yukon has 136,000 miles and has the common broken driver side motor mount. My local dealer has quoted me over $500 to replace. I own a business in the quality industry in Michigan and even used to work for a body, engine, and transmission mount manufacturer in Grand Rapids, Michigan, so I have some inside knowledge about this exact subject. These engine mounts are clearly sub-par either in design, or in manufacturing quality. Most engine mounts do have a safety over travel stop designed into the engine mount core frame/bracket in order to prevent the engine from traveling past a certain point should the rubber section ever fail (this is what causes the audible clunk). This is probably how GM is able to not have to issue a safety recall for this common failure/fault. Suppliers are required to subject said parts to a rigorous testing program which is defined by the buyer. This leads me to believe that this engine mount suffers from a poor design. I remember in the early 90's actually making special engine and transmission mounts for police vehicles. They were otherwise identical and used all the same parts as the mounts used in typical passenger vehicles with the exception of purging out the standard softer raw rubber compound, and switching it out for higher durometer stronger rubber compound in order to deal with the higher horsepower engine packages offered in police package vehicles. My point being, the requirement of needing different strength mounts and sometimes different designs is obviously well known for many decades. Shame on GM for allowing this poor design to be sold to their unassuming loyal customer base and then not properly fixing the problem once the fault was discovered. I have been to hundreds of automotive suppliers and many of the big three factories to perform Metrology and Calibration services in the last 20 years, and GM Powertrain R&D divisions are in my opinion TOP NOTCH in the industry and world. They are certainly able to catch this, and at the very least provide an appropriate fix. Using the same engine mount will never fix the problem, they will continue to fail. I am curious as to the extent of this broad repair cost for the general consumer at large. Maybe this issue needs to be looked into as a class action lawsuit. If this failure is not as broad scale as it seems, then why does the all mighty General not fix all of these broken engine mounts under good faith. You are shooting yourself in the foot by not. I have extensive vehicle mechanical knowledge and many facilities and tools at my disposal, so I am able to cope with this repair by myself, but why should I have to? I race a 500+ HP Camaro Z28 and guess what? It still has the stock engine mounts which have been thrashed for the last 20 years without breaking.

I am 100% about buying American branded vehicles and products, but if this is the kind of product and customer service that I can expect from GM, it honestly makes me ready to change brands for both my personal and business vehicle purchases. I also have many family, friends, and colleges who value my input aimed at the automotive world due to my background...

 

[92awdtsi]

Just did my driver side mount on my 07 4wd tahoe. Pretty straight forward job. Removed wheel, wheel liner and manifold heat shield. Broke loose mount bolts, supported engine, removed mount bolts, jacked engine up, removed mount. Wasn't the easiest getting the mount itself out of the engine bay but I managed to get it through the wheel well so I could leave the steering shaft in place. Hope this helps fellow owners.

 

[James Manning]

My GMC 07 Yukon SLT have the same right motor mount problem. I've been reading the all the post, I just don't understand why GM don't want to do a campaign on this fix. My question: Is this supposed to be professional grade?

 

[YukonCrazy]

Just did my driver side mount on my 07 4wd tahoe. Pretty straight forward job. Removed wheel, wheel liner and manifold heat shield. Broke loose mount bolts, supported engine, removed mount bolts, jacked engine up, removed mount. Wasn't the easiest getting the mount itself out of the engine bay but I managed to get it through the wheel well so I could leave the steering shaft in place. Hope this helps fellow owners.

Where on the engine did you jack it up? I have read you may not want to jack up on the oil pan is it may warp and then cause internal issue. Thanks fr the reply.

 

[92awdtsi]

Where on the engine did you jack it up? I have read you may not want to jack up on the oil pan is it may warp and then cause internal issue. Thanks fr the reply.

The little rectangular area in the back where your not supposed to. A 2x4 fits in that space. I also took the two trans mount nuts off just incase it needed more wiggle room. Probably not needed, but an easy task.

 

[Clean07Burb]

I need to do mine what brand did you get?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When the original GM mount broke, I replaced it with an aftermarket Anchor branded mount. This was a mistake because it lasted less than a year. I just installed a new GM mount today. We'll see how long it lasts...

 

[Clean07Burb]

I also used the rear, flat portion of the oil pan as a jack point to lift to motor enough to massage the old mount out and the new one in. It won't hurt the pan as long as you're careful and don't go crazy with it.

I remove the entire front differential to gain easy access to the mount. Sounds difficult, but it isnt. Takes about 20 minutes to drop it down and out of the way and it makes the job MUCH easier.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Where on the engine did you jack it up? I have read you may not want to jack up on the oil pan is it may warp and then cause internal issue. Thanks fr the reply.

You're not going to warp a cast aluminum oil pan. If anything, it would crack. As I said previously, just go slow and you'll be fine.

 

[08grey]

Damn. Drop the diff.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Damn. Drop the diff.

@08grey

It's really simple, man. Just unbolt the inboard side of both front axles and let them hang from the hubs. Then unplug your front diff 4WD actuator. After that you've got four bolts that hold the entire diff in place, two on each side. Unbolt them and the whole thing drops right out. Slide it out of the way and then lift the motor with a floor jack and a piece of wood via oil pan. This gives you a straight shot at the driver's side mount. Unlbolt the three mount to frame bolts from up top after bending the heat shield out of the way and then unbolt the four mount to block bolts from underneath the truck. With the motor jacked up a few inches you'll be able to sneak the old mount out and the new mount in. There's an index pin made into the mount so once you drop the new mount into place it automatically lines up all seven bolt holes required to hold it in place. It's about a two hour job on the floor and about an hour job with the truck in the air. Not sure why dealers and local shops are quoting $500+ in labor. Especially the dealer, as I'm sure they've got this down to a science and can knock them out in about 45 minutes.

 

[YukonCrazy]

My Yukon is 2 wheel drive. What do I need to remove in order to get to those top bolts on the mount?