Broken fuel injector lock clip

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Burban22

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Unfortunately broke 3 of the 8 fuel injector clips. 5 released without issues. The other 3 broke when I was releasing the injector plug. They still plug into the injector but they can now be pulled off by just tugging on the wire.

Is this a big deal? Do I need to replace the entire injector plug?

I’d rather not have to cut wires and splice a new connector but if these can easily unplug under normal driving then I’d rather be on the safe side.

This came about because I have a CEL for bank 2 knock sensor and I am replacing both sensors, knock sensor harness and Intake gasket.

2003 suburban 5.3 LM7
 
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Burban22

Burban22

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Good
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Broken

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Burban22

Burban22

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I did this same job on the family’s 04 yukon and didn’t break a single clip but the plastic on my 03 burb seemed very brittle
 

Doubeleive

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Unfortunately broke 3 of the 8 fuel injector clips. 5 released without issues. The other 3 broke when I was releasing the injector plug. They still plug into the injector but they can now be pulled off by just tugging on the wire.

Is this a big deal? Do I need to replace the entire injector plug?

I’d rather not have to cut wires and splice a new connector but if these can easily unplug under normal driving then I’d rather be on the safe side.

This came about because I have a CEL for bank 2 knock sensor and I am replacing both sensors, knock sensor harness and Intake gasket.

2003 suburban 5.3 LM7
if you can locate the connectors they can be just be re-pinned, the pins will release and pull out then you just push them in the new connectors.
no need to cut any wires.
 
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Burban22

Burban22

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Thanks for the responses and suggestions!

I may run out to the nearby junkyard and see If there are some good connectors left on any GMT 800s out there and attempt to take the connectors apart. If all else fails, I’ll zip tie it until I can properly fix it. Or then forget about it. lol
 

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Wes
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Thanks for the responses and suggestions!

I may run out to the nearby junkyard and see If there are some good connectors left on any GMT 800s out there and attempt to take the connectors apart. If all else fails, I’ll zip tie it until I can properly fix it. Or then forget about it. lol
they come apart you just need a long sharp tip poker or flat poker to get the pins out
you can buy a 120pc pin kit for $20 and take just about any connector apart without ruining it
 

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Wes
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you take that yellow clip off then inside will be some rubber seals, those pull up, then the little lock clips are on the side in your photo those push in and then the pin can be pulled out, take a photo of the wires before you start taking any of it apart so you get it back together with the wires in the right spot.
and junkyard is a good source for some, should be the same connector on almost any gm vehicle of the same era
pinout.JPG
 
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Burban22

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The Flex Fuel injector connectors are different from the gas injector connectors, so be careful when choosing.
I’ll focus on finding a 2000-2003 model years as I think they started flex fuel option in mid 2003. I think LM7 is vin 8th digit T so that can help.
 

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Wes
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I’ll focus on finding a 2000-2003 model years as I think they started flex fuel option in mid 2003. I think LM7 is vin 8th digit T so that can help.
take a picture of the connector and just match it up, should be the same on pickups, suv's, vans across all makes chevy gmc cadillac
 
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Burban22

Burban22

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Flex fuel L59 much more common than non flex LM7. At least at my local junkyard. Ended up stumbling onto a discarded part of harness on the ground with 3 intact plugs lol

Once the weather warms up I’ll swap over the clips and finish up the knock sensor replacement.

Appreciate the excellent knowledge and fast responses on this forum!
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Burban22

Burban22

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Got the broken clips replaced. Was pretty easy! Just a pick was needed to take it apart then slightly bend the wire prongs out before inserting in good connector.

Will have to put on some miles for all the pcm checks to happen but I tested the new knock sensors before installing so hopefully it’s all good.
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Burban22

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Before: rear knock sensor hole was full of water. Probably from my engine degreasing when I first got it in March. Got a CEL in December. I made the damn of RTV per GM TSB so any water should not fill the knock sensor holes. Although the front was dry the rear is usually the one to get wet since the engine slopes backwards.

I shouldn’t have to clean engine with water since I’ve replaced valley cover gasket and valve cover gaskets should stop any upper engine oil leaks.

Before:
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Cam looks good from what I can see for 176k miles.

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Fless

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Water under the bridge, or around the dam if you will. But I was under the impression that the knock sensor RTV dams were supposed to be open at the back -- not full circle.
 
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Burban22

Burban22

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Water under the bridge, or around the dam if you will. But I was under the impression that the knock sensor RTV dams were supposed to be open at the back -- not full circle.
You are correct but I completely closed the circle. The new rubber grommets fit very tight so I doubt water can get past them. I guess my thinking was keep all water out and if any somehow makes it over the dam the rubber covers are so tight it should just evaporate. Maybe 10 years they will shrink?

I also cut two small channels in the rear foam so any water can run out the back of the engine. Left the front and rear foam pieces in to keep rodents out as they both had chewing marks on the outside.
 

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Wes
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when i did the 05 i sealed up the whole thing all the way around and over the edge of the grommet, should be water tight lol
that was like 3 years ago no issue's
 
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