Brake stainless steel lines questions

[jyi786]

I have the new Stoptech 950.66002 SS lines installed on my 2012 Denali XL, up front.

1. Is there any detriment if the line is not completely straight? What I mean is, it's not kinked, but it's slightly "twisted", so you can see some warpage. Must have gotten like that when I was installing it. There are no braking problems to speak of.
2. The part that the banjo bolt goes into is angled. Think of it as a L. Should it be angled DOWN or UP? I installed them DOWN (upside down L).

Additionally, I would now like to upgrade the rear brake hoses to stainless steel as well. What is the part number for the rear? Some people online say that it is Stoptech 950.66502, but other say Stoptech 950.66504. Which of the two is the right ones for my truck?

Thanks!

 

[bigdog9191999]

sounds like youll be fine, as for the rear, i would be wiling to bet the only difference is a little length and i doubt the little difference there would be ( couple inches if i am correct) would be a bother. so if stock i would say the longer just to be sure, if lowered the shorter just because, but would probably be fine.

 

[wsteele]

I have the new Stoptech 950.66002 SS lines installed on my 2012 Denali XL, up front.

1. Is there any detriment if the line is not completely straight? What I mean is, it's not kinked, but it's slightly "twisted", so you can see some warpage. Must have gotten like that when I was installing it. There are no braking problems to speak of.
2. The part that the banjo bolt goes into is angled. Think of it as a L. Should it be angled DOWN or UP? I installed them DOWN (upside down L).

Additionally, I would now like to upgrade the rear brake hoses to stainless steel as well. What is the part number for the rear? Some people online say that it is Stoptech 950.66502, but other say Stoptech 950.66504. Which of the two is the right ones for my truck?

Thanks!

The aftermarket stainless hose kits I have seen all seem to have the non-swiveling style hose ends (as opposed to swiveling style that allows a wrench to be used to hold the hose in the proper position while the mating surfaces are cinched down). When using non-swiveling hose ends we always used some amount of "anti-clocking" (turning the hose backward a little against the tightening) to make sure the hose sat normal to the way it was assembled and eliminate any twisting when everything was tight.

It doesn't sound like yours is twisted much as the longer the hose is, the more weird bends the hose will take if tightened without regard to any clocking considerations.

If it were me (being anally retentive by nature), I would want no twisting in the braided line and it sitting normal to the position it was assembled at the factory when I was all done cinching everything up.

 

[exp500]

^^^^^^^^Agree with above- No Twist Allowed!^^^^^^^^

 

[89Suburban]

I'd like to get these at some point and replace all my calipers since the bleeders are all frozen and I can't flush the brake system.

 

[exp500]

A couple torch/spray cycles and a soak will free them. But have replacement bleeder screws. Your Choice of course.

 

[Rocket Man]

I'd like to get these at some point and replace all my calipers since the bleeders are all frozen and I can't flush the brake system.

That would be good indeed.

 

[thompsoj22]

A couple torch/spray cycles and a soak will free them. But have replacement bleeder screws. Your Choice of course.

Im also in the bleeder screws frozen club, I did attempt to loosen them with pb blaster and got some "slight" movement but i knew any more applied torque would have snapped them. So your saying simply heat and spray pb blaster or kroil to cool them for a couple cycles and they should back out?

 

[exp500]

Frozen Bleeders usually come out with heat, but not always. Over Torque is usually culprit. Rust belt a concern too. I started using anti seize on the threads long ago. A wet rag helps keep caliper cool.