Best option for my transmission?

[iboughtatahoe23]

My trans is going out at 166k and I’m wondering what’s the best route to take. I don’t have much money. So the cheapest way would be nice. Thanks.

 

[B-train]

1. If you are DIY, then boneyard for cheapest option.
2. Find a local shop that does good teans work and price a rebuild.
3. Put in a CERTA trans with a 3 yr/100k warranty if you plan on keeping the truck for awhile

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

1. If you are DIY, then boneyard for cheapest option.
2. Find a local shop that does good teans work and price a rebuild.
3. Put in a CERTA trans with a 3 yr/100k warranty if you plan on keeping the truck for awhile

Maybe I can’t rebuild a transmission but maybe I can swap them… I heard @NickTransmissions is doing some videos And I’m gonna take a look at those. Investing in some Jack stands. And my neighbor has a Jack.

The car is financed. So I will be keeping it a while. It’s kind of hard to sell with this many miles.

There is a decent transmission in my town with good reviews. I might check them out. Regardless I’m on a budget. I also have to fix my exhaust leak.

 

[NickTransmissions]

@iboughtatahoe23: Check out this thread if you haven't already: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/gm-6l80-transmission-information-thread.141927/

 

[Airman68]

Sometimes you can find a reliable, smaller rebuild shop that can do the whole job cheaper than you can. I would agree, finding a descent used trans for a swap is likely the cheapest. I did one on my last silverado, installed parts and labor under $1200. Probelm is, who really knows how good the replacement is. If you have a shop do it, at least they might stand behind it if you buy it from them.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I don’t get why it drives fine but really only slips when I first start driving. Then it won’t do it again until I let it sit for a while (over night)

 

[Charlie207]

Do the basics first:

Check the ATF level after the fluid is HOT. If low, add fluid. Is the fluid red or gross & dark?

Then:

Pull the transmission pan, drain all the fluid you can (try to measure how much comes out; makes it easier to add the correct amount).

Replace the filter. Bolt pan back up to transmission.

Fill with new fluid, check level, go for a drive up to 55-60mph to cycle through all the gears and converter lockup.

Repeat fluid exchange and drive until the fluid looks good.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I don’t get why it drives fine but really only slips when I first start driving. Then it won’t do it again until I let it sit for a while (over night)

You need to be clear on exactly what symptoms you are having as there are multiple different types of symptoms documented across all of your transmission-related threads. Hard to know where to begin if we can't understand what's actually happening.

That said, the slipping/chugging when cold is a commonly reported issue and consensus amongst techs, etc is that the root of the problem is in the tune/software.
Specifically the TM and TCC tables where in some vehicles when the trans temp is below a certain threshold (ie cold from sitting), the TCM "overadapts" resulting in a slip at take off that goes away once the trans reaches higher temps, hence why it only happens when its been sitting for prolonged periods of time.

There's a TSB on the issue though it covers later years but may apply to yours as well

Is this the only drivability symptom you have?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

You need to be clear on exactly what symptoms you are having as there are multiple different types of symptoms documented across all of your transmission-related threads. Hard to know where to begin if we can't understand what's actually happening.

That said, the slipping/chugging when cold is a commonly reported issue and consensus amongst techs, etc is that the root of the problem is in the tune/software.
Specifically the TM and TCC tables where in some vehicles when the trans temp is below a certain threshold (ie cold from sitting), the TCM "overadapts" resulting in a slip at take off that goes away once the trans reaches higher temps, hence why it only happens when its been sitting for prolonged periods of time.

There's a TSB on the issue though it covers later years but may apply to yours as well

Is this the only drivability symptom you have?

I mentioned all my issues I was having in this Transmission thread to you @NickTransmissions

 

[NickTransmissions]

I mentioned all my issues I was having in this Transmission thread to you @NickTransmissions

I would suggest you list them here in bullet form. But its up to you...

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I would suggest you list them here in bullet form. But its up to you...

You asked:

“At 166k, the trans is coming out sooner rather than later.

That said, what exactly is it doing?

1. Does take off feel normal or does it feel like you have a significant loss of power/no power?

2. Is the 1-2 shift overly late / harsh?

3. What about the feel of the rest of the upshifts?

4. How about downshifts - are they 'normal' or do they also feel overly harsh or overly soft?

5. Is your check engine light on?”

I said:
1. The gas pedal feels like a brick when taking off, power feels normal in 1st and 2nd for a 3 ton SUV, power loss seems to be in over drive when, for example; if im driving on the highway and I need to pass someone it feels like it Boggs sometimes when I need the power to pass , and sometimes I can floor it no issues. It’s like it depends on the speed or what gear I’m in when I do press down a little more to get more power (again the pedal is really stiff) can’t tell if it’s power loss with the pedal being so mushy and stiff or if it’s the throttle itself (which is electronic?) when I’m taking off from stop, I really have to press the pedal in more to go.

2.yes, the especially 1st gear, It feels like it will dump and then like lurch a little (not too noticeable) in 1st to 2nd.
The car sounds like a big fan/turbine whining, only in 1st gear and some of 2nd and then it quiets down. Which I presume is the transmission or the exhaust leak I apparently have… and the shifts are late and slipping it feels like sometimes, especially in the winter. The fluid was replaced at 165k. 3 mechanics said it felt normal when riding and driving.

3. 3rd to 6th gear feel normal in terms of shifting. Except for the potential power issue I explained I was having at higher speeds. It will also sometimes shift late when Just cruising in 1st, like it will ride at 2k until I press down a little more and then it will go to 2nd.

4. When coming to a stop sign, perhaps sometimes I feel one of the downshifts. Rarely though this has happened and it’s really light. Tbh it could have been a bump I felt. Maybe not.

5. No check engine light.

Edit: I did mention I had the rear propshaft speed sensor code one time.

As of 6/2/23 this morning when I drove off to the gym 2-3 gear kinda jerked or banged. I only felt this once before in all of owning this and then once this morning. But it was right when I started it up and drove away, trans was at 86°F. I remember you said there’s a tsb for the wiring harness or something and it has to be warm to shift right or something?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks,

Its helpful to have it in this thread because this thread is your most recent and active thus the most likely to be viewed. You're asking for our help - make it easier for us to help you.

Have you fixed all your other issues aside from the exhaust leak?

I do recall telling you that irrespective of the actual causes of your issue, its going to cost $$$$ to fix it which you stated you did not have. I do agree with you taking a loan to have everything fixed by a competent shop who knows these transmissions, can diagnose and rebuild or can at least competently install a GM reman unit for you.

I still believe that is your best course of action.

Be very careful about swapping a used unit - in fact id strongly against doing this. I have rebuilt many "good used" transmissions that went out shorly after the brief warranty period.

At this point, its your call how you are going to proceed. I feel like ive gone as far as im capable to helping you over the internet.

Take out the loan and have it all fixed once and for all. It will be a good vehicle and last you a long time.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Thanks,

Its helpful to have it in this thread because this thread is your most recent and active thus the most likely to be viewed. You're asking for our help - make it easier for us to help you.

Have you fixed all your other issues aside from the exhaust leak?

I do recall telling you that irrespective of the actual causes of your issue, its going to cost $$$$ to fix it which you stated you did not have. I do agree with you taking a loan to have everything fixed by a competent shop who knows these transmissions, can diagnose and rebuild or can at least competently install a GM reman unit for you.

I still believe that is your best course of action.

Be very careful about swapping a used unit - in fact id strongly against doing this. I have rebuilt many "good used" transmissions that went out shorly after the brief warranty period.

At this point, its your call how you are going to proceed. I feel like ive gone as far as im capable to helping you over the internet.

Take out the loan and have it all fixed once and for all. It will be a good vehicle and last you a long time.

So rebuild mine, get a certified remanufactured one or sell it. Those are my options I’m going with.

Not really, having much traction selling it,
I’m asking $13k. I paid $14.5k for it.

And yes, I fixed everything besides the exhaust manifold stud.

So rebuilt, or remanufaftured? And if remanufactured, where from? Should I go to a junkyard?

 

[NickTransmissions]

You asked:

“At 166k, the trans is coming out sooner rather than later.

That said, what exactly is it doing?

1. Does take off feel normal or does it feel like you have a significant loss of power/no power?

2. Is the 1-2 shift overly late / harsh?

3. What about the feel of the rest of the upshifts?

4. How about downshifts - are they 'normal' or do they also feel overly harsh or overly soft?

5. Is your check engine light on?”

I said:
1. The gas pedal feels like a brick when taking off, power feels normal in 1st and 2nd for a 3 ton SUV, power loss seems to be in over drive when, for example; if im driving on the highway and I need to pass someone it feels like it Boggs sometimes when I need the power to pass , and sometimes I can floor it no issues. It’s like it depends on the speed or what gear I’m in when I do press down a little more to get more power (again the pedal is really stiff) can’t tell if it’s power loss with the pedal being so mushy and stiff or if it’s the throttle itself (which is electronic?) when I’m taking off from stop, I really have to press the pedal in more to go.

2.yes, the especially 1st gear, It feels like it will dump and then like lurch a little (not too noticeable) in 1st to 2nd.
The car sounds like a big fan/turbine whining, only in 1st gear and some of 2nd and then it quiets down. Which I presume is the transmission or the exhaust leak I apparently have… and the shifts are late and slipping it feels like sometimes, especially in the winter. The fluid was replaced at 165k. 3 mechanics said it felt normal when riding and driving.

3. 3rd to 6th gear feel normal in terms of shifting. Except for the potential power issue I explained I was having at higher speeds. It will also sometimes shift late when Just cruising in 1st, like it will ride at 2k until I press down a little more and then it will go to 2nd.

4. When coming to a stop sign, perhaps sometimes I feel one of the downshifts. Rarely though this has happened and it’s really light. Tbh it could have been a bump I felt. Maybe not.

5. No check engine light.

Edit: I did mention I had the rear propshaft speed sensor code one time.

As of 6/2/23 this morning when I drove off to the gym 2-3 gear kinda jerked or banged. I only felt this once before in all of owning this and then once this morning. But it was right when I started it up and drove away, trans was at 86°F. I remember you said there’s a tsb for the wiring harness or something and it has to be warm to shift right or something?

So rebuild mine, get a certified remanufactured one or sell it. Those are my options I’m going with.

Not really, having much traction selling it,
I’m asking $13k. I paid $14.5k for it.

And yes, I fixed everything besides the exhaust manifold stud.

So rebuilt, or remanufaftured? And if remanufactured, where from? Should I go to a junkyard?

Junkyard - ABSOLUTELY NOT

Id suggest a General Motors remanufactured transmission for your vehicle. Then have it installed at the dealership in your area.

 

[Geotrash]

You're asking for our help - make it easier for us to help you.

Amen. We're all volunteers here.

 

[petethepug]

You’ve got a budget, I get it. The labor, yours or a shop is paramount if you get a dud transmission. Bad if it’s your T&L, worse if it’s someone you’re paying, potentially to do it twice. You’ll also have to reprogram the TCM. The best price I’ve heard of is a Chevy dealer doing it for $175.

I had my trusty diesel Indi tech rebuild my 09 Esky trans by his hands 2mo ago. It was $5k. I dropped off a bunch of other parts he installed while it was apart that were another $1.5k in labor/parts. A GM cert rebuild trans would of been $800 more. I passed on that.

It’s a brute job by yourself on jack stands and a trans jack. Another Esky owner just did his trans on his 07 and sourced it from AutoZone shipped to the store. Always inspect them before you leave the store. The first one he picked up had a cracked bell housing. That could happen but there was fresh paint in the crack.

 

[SpyShops212]

My 2008 went out around the same miles. You need to replace it which can be done for 4k. I would take to the dealer for the warranty.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

My 2008 went out around the same miles. You need to replace it which can be done for 4k. I would take to the dealer for the warranty.

There is no warranty it is as is. I grew up with Chevy and bet my life on them, not anymore haha. This thing has a clean Carfax with service records every 5000 miles 165K for a transmission to go out, it’s just too soon!

But I just found a tow brake in here under my backseat, which makes me think it was for towing damn it!

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

All right guys little update today, went out and ran some errands still getting weird shifts at this point I’m kind of just waiting for it to go out because I’m not about to go dump a bunch of money into some thing if I really don’t know what’s wrong with it yet. And shops can’t just break down the transmission because at that point you might as well just rebuild it. And can’t afford that.

I think I’m going to go talk to my credit Union to see about moving forward from this and cutting my losses and hopefully sell it and restructure my loan.

 

[oldchev]

This forum is a good place to start, with lots of advice. I use it frequently to see what others have done.
Very recently I had my (2004) 4L65e rebuilt @278k miles. This shop was honest and with upgrades and converter was $3200.
Depending on number of shops in your area, I think you can go to a few and ask manager to go on a test drive with you. They see problems every day. I am sure they will suggest a rebuild. At that point you can ask about options.
Other than this trans I have always done my own work, transmissions included. Age, physical strength, and time were my limiting factors. You need tools, proper lifts, jack stands plus ample mechanical know how to DIY. In my years, I have found 9 of 10 times things do not go as planned or another issue is presented.
From reading this post, my advice would be to bite the bullet and have a quility shop take this on, and get a warranty.
All the best.