Belltech 07 Tahoe Camber Kit Problems

[NORCAL SS]

I have a customer that had to use a 40 ton press to put in the upper belltech camber kit on his 09 tahoe and literally will not be able to move them now. Did anyone have a issue with the front belltech camber kit on their 07 up Tahoe/Suburban etc.

Also belltech does not include new rear swaybar endlinks like DJM does and he talked to the tech there and im hoping we can get belltech to make it because with a 3 or 4 inch rear drop the rear swaybar endlinks need to be modified and if DJM does it belltech should also.

 

[Modded]

Thats where DJM gets a thumbs up, when the rear sway bar is that low of an angle it kills the function of the sway bar completetly, and apart from DJM others just don't care!
The camber kits are alwyas BS to put in, not a DIYr at all, but why does he need them? With a 2" strut drop and 2" soindle drop it still should not be needed at all?

 

[yolo]

thats correct. He should not need the new ball joints. I went 4 inches up front so I installed the ball joints and shims. I had no problems but I paid the local GM dealership $50 to press them in for me. Sounds like he used too much force to press them in. Remember that he may not be able to move them with his bare hands. The weight of the front end and suspension will move them.

 

[RBHoe]

Hi all- I'm the new Hoe owner in question. Some facts for you: I mic'ed the bushings at 44.0mm OD and the upper control arm holes at 42.9mm ID. That's .043" difference, which is FAR more than a typical press limit of .005". I also mic'ed the stock bushings at 43.2mm OD, which is a very tight press (.011" larger), but at least within striking distance of reasonable for a non-solid pressed piece.

We used all the hydraulic press Tony mentioned could handle to press them in- bending some press plates in the process- and it shaved off a layer of steel from the outside of the bushings to make it happen. Pretty crazy. I'm very happy with the quality of the kit except for this hickup- anyone using these bushings before Belltech changes the manufacturing specs to be closer to the 43.2mm stock bushings (hopefully) needs to be aware that you're going to need far more than a 20-ton press at your local suspension shop to press them in (they couldn't do it at that force).

As for the sway bar links, I just chopped out 2.5" in the middle of the links and used 2" sections of pipe with an ID matching the OD as a sleeve and welded the links back together. The sway bars sit perfect at that length (went with Eibach sways while I was at it.) Pretty easy, but it would be nice for those without a MIG in the shop to have the links included.

I'll post pics when things settle out a bit, and after I wash the thing- but it's absolutely perfect IMO going with the 3" front (used the two 1/2" spacers on top of the front springs) and 4" in the back (did not use the 1" spacers back there, and left on the shock isolaters). Very nice kit overall and excellent instructions. It took shortening my autoride links by a full inch to get the back to drop, btw.

Thanks to Tony for excellent customer service both before and after the sale. I highly recommend him for suspension needs. Belltech tech support was fairly good also.

 

[NORCAL SS]

thanks wayne. I relaly want to figure out about the front cam bushings. also in rear they should get new endlinks.

 

[RBHoe]

Here are the pics as promised. And I see even with the bushings, I'm still cambered in a little bit- getting the alignment tomorrow. But the wife is really happy with the new Hoe now that the Belltech 3/4 and Eibach sways are installed. Cheers!

 

[Modded]

That looks real good man, I keep throwing around the idea of getting a new 4" drop kit over my 3".
Yours will help the decision.

 

[NORCAL SS]

wayne didy ou pull all the stuff i said out in the back to bring it back down more?

Truck looks good.

Belltech said no go on the new rear endlinks ill keep trying because belltech should give new endlinds for swaybar just like djm does.

 

[Modded]

Maybe its not important DJM?
I know that the DJM rear 4" kits come with shock extension, end links, and trailing arms. All of those are pretty important besides the trailing arms, that one is unnecessary because they are the only people to have it at a 4" drop, and if its was needed other would to right?

 

[RBHoe]

Hi gents,

I didn't pull out the isolaters in the rear yet- frankly the wife loves the way it looks right now- the overall sit is about perfect, even though there's more fender spacing in the rear.

I am thinking, however, that since I'm 1/2 - 3/4" high on the passenger side, of just pulling the isolaters out of that side and seeing if that levels it all out...

 

[Modded]

I cannot see a height difference on your drop RBhoe.

 

[RBHoe]

Yeah- it's only been measuing 1/2" difference consistently- it would take a heck of an eye on a vehicle this big for anyone to see it. I guess I'm just ****!

I did pull out the isolators on just the passenger side last night and then drove it about 30 miles. The result- no difference in height. I took a pair of channel locks and squeezed on the removed isolaters- it looks like they squeeze pretty close to flat- I don't think there's going to be any actual drop difference by removing them, but we'll see if it settles with the autoride... if not, oh, well, it's half an inch!

 

[Modded]

Yeah I have proof now that removing the isolators on a NNBS Tahoe literally would make .2" difference at max, which is next to nothing!!
Pretty much a useless thing to do, I'm putting mine back in later this week as the drop coils are squeaky/noisy w/o them in!

 

[NASTY GM]

I never bothered purchasing the camber kit and I'm lowered more than 3" in the front. I took the rear isolators out and it is lower which is cool. The noise is not cool and seems worst in the rain. I just crank me stereo and forget about it I wll probably put mine back in at some point though.

 

[Modded]

I never bothered purchasing the camber kit and I'm lowered more than 3" in the front. I took the rear isolators out and it is lower which is cool. The noise is not cool and seems worst in the rain. I just crank me stereo and forget about it I wll probably put mine back in at some point though.

I agree with you man, the noise is not cool at all, sounds nasty
Can hear that shit from outide the truck so mine had to go back in!

 

[escalading]

was the ride pretty shaky on the highway? and how was the comfort when going over speedbumps and a wavy road?

 

[wheatswake]

rbhoe, how did you maintain autoride with a 3/4 drop? i have been told i can only do a 2/3 and keep autoride. any difference in ride quality?

 

[NORCAL SS]

i sold him the kit and on the autorde trucks in rear the beltech kit give 3.5 inches. Any other questions just shoot im here 24/7 to help with suspension questions since i sell these items.

 

[RBHoe]

Hi guys,

Sorry- been a while since I've checked the forum. I had to play with the length of the autoride links quite a bit- but even with the full 4" drop in the rear I got it to work right- but they're pretty short!

The drop is perfect IMO both front and rear, and this and the Eibach sways make for an excellent ride/handling combo. Of course, I do like better handling cars and am willing to sacrifice a little ride quality to get it. But driving it is night and day vs. stock both in terms of handling and start/stop leans back/forward.

Not to mention it gets LOTS of looks! And more questions, please PM me as I don't get nearly as much time checking the forums and playing hobbies as I'd like!

Cheers to all...