Arnott Passive vs. Active Mageneride Replacement: Am I understanding tradeoffs correctly?

[bobsaget]

I am looking at whether to keep or delete magneride using Arnott struts, and I want to make sure I am understanding the tradeoffs.

Delete:
more affordable
Less "sporty" but also less stiff under 65mph
Still a good ride quality

Keep:
expensive
Stiffer at lower speeds, but more sporty driving experience
Excellent ride quality

IS that accurate? Is there anything else I need to consider, or is that about it? I am trying to decide between the two, and since I haven't driven both, it's a really hard decision to make.

 

[Doubeleive]

Arnott in either case are not expensive, oem is
not sure where you are shopping, try rockauto there is a small core fee but you get that back when you send your old shocks back.

 

[bobsaget]

Arnott in either case are not expensive, oem is
not sure where you are shopping, try rockauto there is a small core fee but you get that back when you send your old shocks back.

That's where I am looking. The OEM is $405 for each strut, not assembled and not including new coils or other parts. The Arnott MR-3840 are $615 each (active replacement assembly)

 

[Doubeleive]

That's where I am looking. The OEM is $405 for each strut, not assembled and not including new coils or other parts. The Arnott MR-3840 are $615 each (active replacement assembly)

you do not need a complete strut, all you need is the shock part and have it swapped over or rent a "scary" spring compressor lol, I would rather pay the $50 and let a shop do it.
this brings the cost down a lot.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Also check out GMPartsDirect.com and enter your VIN for a decent price on OEM struts. MUCH cheaper than the dealership.

 

[bobsaget]

you do not need a complete strut, all you need is the shock part and have it swapped over or rent a "scary" spring compressor lol, I would rather pay the $50 and let a shop do it.
this brings the cost down a lot.

Got it. The shop I was talking to said I am better off getting a full assembly becaause the coils can wear out too. Is it worth buying a new coil (they are cheap) and having them replace that too when they swap the strut, or is really not necessary?

For reference, I have aa 2015 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L engine and 108k miles.

 

[Doubeleive]

Got it. The shop I was talking to said I am better off getting a full assembly becaause the coils can wear out too. Is it worth buying a new coil (they are cheap) and having them replace that too when they swap the strut, or is really not necessary?

For reference, I have aa 2015 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L engine and 108k miles.

yes that would my preferred method, kind of a best of both choice without buying a complete unit

 

[CMoore711]

Got it. The shop I was talking to said I am better off getting a full assembly becaause the coils can wear out too. Is it worth buying a new coil (they are cheap) and having them replace that too when they swap the strut, or is really not necessary?

For reference, I have aa 2015 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L engine and 108k miles.

No; Not completely true. How many miles are on your rig?

The real reason they told you that is because they don’t like to use spring compressors either.

 

[bobsaget]

No; Not completely true. How many miles are on your rig?

The real reason they told you that is because they don’t like to use spring compressors either.

108k miles (2015 Yukon Denali 6.2L)

 

[Joseph Garcia]

108k miles (2015 Yukon Denali 6.2L)

I replaced my front suspension at 150K miles. GM no longer makes/sells the front coil springs for my year truck, so I used a cross-referenced Moog coil spring for the replacement coil springs. The new coil springs lifted my front end by 1 inch, which I determined when I checked my headlights with my test jig.

Was it due to my original springs getting tired, or was it because the Moog coil springs were slightly different than the OEM coil springs? Who knows, but the front height did change. Your results may vary.