Another 6.2 for 5.3 swap going on.

[PatDTN]

My 5.3 suddenly started blowing large clouds of blue smoke on startup. After a mere 220k miles I think it's done. I walked into the cloud to smell and I think it's got a tinge of coolant too.

Whether it's getting coolant into the cylinders or not fixing the cylinder heads is enough expense that I wouldn't want to do it and put more pressure on the bottom end with stock compression restored.

I did some searching and found an L92 from a 2011 Escalade with 152k miles. That's been ordered and is on the way. I know it's popular to delete AFM but I want to keep that and VVT. This engine has both.

Of course I plan on going over the engine when I get it. I'm putting together a list of gaskets and sensors to order for that. I have read about an o-ring on the oil pump. I figure a timing chain tensioner and some sensors that would be hell to replace with the engine installed. Of course I'll drop the oil pan if only to clean up. Looking at Fel-pro rubber gaskets whenever possible.

I wouldn't turn down some good advice but I'm broke so no upgrades.

 

[iamdub]

The L92 was in the '07 and '08 Escalade. The 2011 Escalade got the L94. If you do have an L92, it'll either have AFM components or not. If you have an engine from a 2011 Escalade, then yes, it'll have AFM and VVT.

The only advice I can offer is to delete AFM. The ~1 MPG increase it gives is vastly negated by the expense to repair or replace the engine.

Granted, your 2011 may have the updated AFM lifters and should have the updated VLOM. But, still. IMO, if it's out and on a stand and you're opening it up to replace gaskets, etc., you'd be crazy to not delete it. I understand not upgrading due to being broke. You don't have to get a performance cam. A stock cam from an L9H (part #12623065) would delete the AFM but keep VVT.

As far as sensors that are "hell to replace with the engine installed"- the oil pressure sensor is really about the only one. The crank position sensor is a close second because it's behind the starter. Everything else is pretty accessible.

 

[swathdiver]

If you keep AFM on the L94 Pat, replace the VLOM at the very least or turn off AFM. When those solenoids get out of time, they take out the lifters.

 

[PatDTN]

Oops. Dunno why I typed L92 when it is in fact an L94. I chose one from an Escalade on the assumption that it would have a better chance of living an easylife.

Thanks for the solenoid suggestion. I'll add that to my list.

 

[iamdub]

Oops. Dunno why I typed L92 when it is in fact an L94. I chose one from an Escalade on the assumption that it would have a better chance of living an easylife.

Thanks for the solenoid suggestion. I'll add that to my list.

I agree with an Escalade engine likely having an easier and better-maintained life. In a past project, I chose an LQ9 from an Escalade instead of from a Silverado SS for the same reasons.

This may be far left field thinking, but, to me, being driven easily means that AFM would've been engaged (and disengaged) more often, putting the components that much closer to their end of life. An engine ran a little harder likely would've remained in V8 mode for a much larger amount of it's use.

If you're not deleting it, as James suggested, disable it. You're gonna need a tune anyway so it can be turned off then. VVT is a keeper, though.

 

[Geotrash]

You're getting great advice here. And I understand being broke and not wanting to do any upgrades if you can avoid it. But (you knew there had to be a but ), it's truly a case of pay-me-now or pay-me-later with the AFM system on that engine. And the engine being out of the truck is the best time to do a proper AFM delete. You're going to have to pay for a tune anyway, so another $1.5K in parts (for quality stuff) to make that engine bulletproof and get more HP+TQ+mileage to boot, is a no-brainer. I'm in the middle of a cam swap in my 2012 XL Denali and can't wait to get that AFM hardware out of there.

 

[PatDTN]

Here's my opinion on AFM. We all know bean counters run businesses. Putting all that extra hardware in there costs a lot of money. If it only gained one MPG but incurred a huge liability both in warranty repair costs and reputation they would leave it out. Millions of people aren't having problems. Those that do are very vocal about the problem. I'll check as best I can to be sure it's in good running order but I plan to leave it in. Besides which I can't possibly add another $1500 to the tab for this project.

 

[Geotrash]

Here's my opinion on AFM. We all know bean counters run businesses. Putting all that extra hardware in there costs a lot of money. If it only gained one MPG but incurred a huge liability both in warranty repair costs and reputation they would leave it out. Millions of people aren't having problems. Those that do are very vocal about the problem. I'll check as best I can to be sure it's in good running order but I plan to leave it in. Besides which I can't possibly add another $1500 to the tab for this project.

I hear you, but the bean counters only care about the system working long enough to get it through the warranty period, and about meeting CAFE regulations to avoid penalties, both of which AFM promotes. After that it sells dealer parts and service.


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[PatDTN]

Well Geotrash's reply got me concerned because it makes sense. I called my friend David Coleman of Coleman Brothers history and talked about it with him. He basically said taking it out was probably a good idea. He's a guy who gives you information but makes you do the thinking. He wouldn't just say take it out.

Okay. It's gonna have to come out somehow. I've looked at Summit Racing and they have a bunch of delete kits none of which includes a cam. I really don't want to buy all new valve springs so the idea of a low lift cam that won't get my springs jammed up appeals to me.

What AFM Delete kit and which cam are y'all recommending? More power isn't a top priority though I would love more.

 

[PatDTN]

I got a notice from the shipper that my new used engine will be delivered tomorrow afternoon. I'm kinda anxious to get this going so I did a bunch of searching. Texas Speed and Performance came up a lot in the searches with a full kit including cam so I called them. They gave me a discount for being a firefighter and that covered shipping. I talked to the guy and we believe my 2009 didn't have VVT so he recommended deleting that and AFM on my new engine.

He also saved me some money by going with an LS9 cam AND springs cheaper than (I think he said) the LS7 cam. They have all the parts in stock down there and are shipping them asap so I should have all those parts by the end of the week. I pray there won't be much else to buy but this came in at $783. I will be dropping the oil pan so there's another gasket there and I'll be looking into that oil pump O-ring.

This will retain the high volume oil pump which will exercise the pressure release regularly. Hopefully no ill effects.

 

[iamdub]

I got a notice from the shipper that my new used engine will be delivered tomorrow afternoon. I'm kinda anxious to get this going so I did a bunch of searching. Texas Speed and Performance came up a lot in the searches with a full kit including cam so I called them. They gave me a discount for being a firefighter and that covered shipping. I talked to the guy and we believe my 2009 didn't have VVT so he recommended deleting that and AFM on my new engine.

He also saved me some money by going with an LS9 cam AND springs cheaper than (I think he said) the LS7 cam. They have all the parts in stock down there and are shipping them asap so I should have all those parts by the end of the week. I pray there won't be much else to buy but this came in at $783. I will be dropping the oil pan so there's another gasket there and I'll be looking into that oil pump O-ring.

This will retain the high volume oil pump which will exercise the pressure release regularly. Hopefully no ill effects.

So glad to hear this! @Geotrash said it- GM didn't devise AFM to make money. They did it because they were forced to make their giant land yachts get as much fuel mileage as possible to meet ever-tightening gubbament standards. Remember the Volt? GM lost money one every unit sold. I wanna say they lost money on the Hybrid Tahoes as well. Ever hear how you should always avoid first model year vehicles since there are almost always bugs yet to work out? This generation of AFM is that "first model year" design and it's faults are certainly real. If you fancy yourself a lucky fellow, then proceed with caution. But, will you be comfortable taking it on a 3, 5, 8, 10+ hour road trip? If (almost when) it fails, will you and your family be on the side of the road in the heat or cold, hours from home or any major city? That $800-$1,000 you saved by not deleting it won't mean a damned thing to you and your family then.

Sounds like you're on a good path. The delete kits come with the valley cover that seals off the AFM towers. It relies on the O-rings built into the gasket, and those have been known to leak a little, lowering oil pressure a small amount. Since it was a cheap solution, I spent $5 on eight 3/8-16 socket head set screws, tapped the towers and torqued in the set screws with red LocTite. The holes are already the perfect size for tapping them to 3/8", so you don't even need to drill. Just get a 3/8"-16 tap and go at it. The metal taps very easily. Also, since AFM isn't active, you can delete the pressure release valve in the oil pan- another potential oil weep point. Just get an M14-1.5 bolt or oil plug and LocTite that in place of that valve. I have this stuff detailed in my build thread if you're interested. The engine shenanigans begin on page 49.

 

[PatDTN]

Iamdub, I had a fairly lengthy discussion with the guy at Texas Speed. He said the oil pump for the DOD was higher volume than non DOD and it will purge more oil through that pressure relief valve with DOD disabled. I had seen that on another web site, maybe the Summit Racing site. Somewhere it was said it purges enough oil there that it splashes the bottom of the cylinder walls and can lead to oil burning. Texas Speed discounted that possibility though.

I might do the oil towers though.

 

[iamdub]

Iamdub, I had a fairly lengthy discussion with the guy at Texas Speed. He said the oil pump for the DOD was higher volume than non DOD and it will purge more oil through that pressure relief valve with DOD disabled. I had seen that on another web site, maybe the Summit Racing site. Somewhere it was said it purges enough oil there that it splashes the bottom of the cylinder walls and can lead to oil burning. Texas Speed discounted that possibility though.

I might do the oil towers though.

That valve purging and splashing oil up is exactly why GM came up with the deflector shield for the valve. Granted, this is with oil that's already pressurized then spraying through that valve from a sudden spike in the oil pressure. It's very much like when you quickly squeeze the sprayer handle on your garden hose and the water shoots out really hard for that first split second then the pressure equalizes. A more gradual "leak" in it wouldn't atomize and "splash/spray" onto the pistons, but it's still an unnecessary oil leak. I chose to plug it since it was a $3/2-minute solution. A valve is a moving part and there has been a few reports of them getting stuck open, casing a drop in oil pressure. Simply screwing in a bolt completely removes this possibility entirely.

 

[PatDTN]

I wonder about the excess flow and pressure. I'd be concerned that it would cause another problem including blowing out o-rings and seals.

 

[Geotrash]

Iamdub, I had a fairly lengthy discussion with the guy at Texas Speed. He said the oil pump for the DOD was higher volume than non DOD and it will purge more oil through that pressure relief valve with DOD disabled. I had seen that on another web site, maybe the Summit Racing site. Somewhere it was said it purges enough oil there that it splashes the bottom of the cylinder walls and can lead to oil burning. Texas Speed discounted that possibility though.

I might do the oil towers though.

This'll do ya: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMTK3QI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[NardDog]

My 5.3 suddenly started blowing large clouds of blue smoke on startup. After a mere 220k miles I think it's done. I walked into the cloud to smell and I think it's got a tinge of coolant too.

Whether it's getting coolant into the cylinders or not fixing the cylinder heads is enough expense that I wouldn't want to do it and put more pressure on the bottom end with stock compression restored.

I did some searching and found an L92 from a 2011 Escalade with 152k miles. That's been ordered and is on the way. I know it's popular to delete AFM but I want to keep that and VVT. This engine has both.

Of course I plan on going over the engine when I get it. I'm putting together a list of gaskets and sensors to order for that. I have read about an o-ring on the oil pump. I figure a timing chain tensioner and some sensors that would be hell to replace with the engine installed. Of course I'll drop the oil pan if only to clean up. Looking at Fel-pro rubber gaskets whenever possible.

I wouldn't turn down some good advice but I'm broke so no upgrades.

I recently did a similar swap. If you decide to take the oil pan off be prepared to take the front cover off and do them together. Consider installing new knock sensors as well.

 

[PatDTN]

Front cover is definitely coming off. New cam and cam gear as part of deleting AFM plus apparently my year doesn't support vvt so that's going too. Oil pan will be coming off for inspection at least and maybe that little diverter thingy Geotrash just posted.

 

[mikeseay]

Front cover is definitely coming off. New cam and cam gear as part of deleting AFM plus apparently my year doesn't support vvt so that's going too. Oil pan will be coming off for inspection at least and maybe that little diverter thingy Geotrash just posted.

Didn’t see any comments about the screen under the oil pressure sending unit. I’d get rid of it as an unnecessary trouble maker.

 

[PatDTN]

Mikeseay, duly noted. At least I'll lavish some attention on that screen.

Meanwhile, pics or it didn't happen;

The new engine

There are a few oil leaks. This at the right rear bottom of the block. Somebody please tell me what this is and what I need to do to fix it.

Some old spray around the crank pulley

This is really messy down here.

I'll be running to the auto parts store for a valve spring compressor, puller to get that crank pulley off carefully, some assembly lube, etc. Go ahead and add to my list.

 

[PatDTN]

Made some progress yesterday. First some mundane things to deal with;

Broken exhaust bolt standing up for easy removal. Heat, penetrating oil, and a couple smacks with a hammer had this one ready to just pull out with vice grips.

This one was flush with the deck and had to be drilled, heated, penetrated, hammered, and finally extracted with a screw extractor.

Oddly I wasn't prepared for how light these cylinder heads are.

Block is nearly ready for final cleaning and then assembly. I managed to pull the harmonic balancer with an antique two jaw puller by using a combination of flat pry bars for the jaws to latch onto behind the pulley.

And finally the AFM oil towers plugged.

My oil pan is nasty and will take some cleaning. Oil on the outside, sludge piled up inside. I didn't get a perfect clean used engine. I wish I could afford to fix this thing up good as new so for now I'll have to follow the old programming adage: never test for an error condition you don't know how to handle.