Aftermarket wheel hub bore too big for spare tire holder

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The Raven

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Alright here's one that never occurred to me. I've had my spare tire/wheel combo sitting in the garage waiting until I re-undercoated the rear of the truck, and today I went to put it on only to realize that it won't work because the hub centerbore on the aftermarket wheel is far too large for the lift...um...claw thingy.

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Anybody know of a solution out there? Maybe a mega-huge steel washer?
 

Tonyv__

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Alright here's one that never occurred to me. I've had my spare tire/wheel combo sitting in the garage waiting until I re-undercoated the rear of the truck, and today I went to put it on only to realize that it won't work because the hub centerbore on the aftermarket wheel is far too large for the lift...um...claw thingy.

View attachment 366075

Anybody know of a solution out there? Maybe a mega-huge steel washer?
What about hub centric rings? They usually go on the back of the wheel but I don’t see why you couldn’t pop them in on the front. These particular ones have a flagged lip so they don’t slip through the wheel bore. I’m just posting pic for reference you’ll have to confirm measurements
49367FF2-4D50-4013-9473-5265CFE9F15B.png
 

wjburken

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I’m confused. Is this the same spare tire that you took off the vehicle or did you actually buy an aftermarket wheel for a spare as well?
 
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The Raven

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Hubcentric adapters won't work because they're flanged to fit the back side of the wheel. The front side isn't flanged the same way. Plus they're plastic...most of them anyway.

And yes, I purchased 5 wheels, one as a spare. Both the wheel and tire are a completely different size so they aren't compatible with the factory spare.
 

iamdub

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Alright here's one that never occurred to me. I've had my spare tire/wheel combo sitting in the garage waiting until I re-undercoated the rear of the truck, and today I went to put it on only to realize that it won't work because the hub centerbore on the aftermarket wheel is far too large for the lift...um...claw thingy.

View attachment 366075

Anybody know of a solution out there? Maybe a mega-huge steel washer?

Know anyone that can cut steel? Have a donut cut out of some thick plate, like .125" or 11 gauge. The outer diameter will need to fit the radius outside of the lug holes (it'd be about 6.5"-7") and the inner hole should be about 78.5mm.

It'd work just like the stock setup except you pass the winch through the wheel then through the plate.
 

Tonyv__

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Hubcentric adapters won't work because they're flanged to fit the back side of the wheel. The front side isn't flanged the same way. Plus they're plastic...most of them anyway.

And yes, I purchased 5 wheels, one as a spare. Both the wheel and tire are a completely different size so they aren't compatible with the factory spare.
You can buy them in metal as well. Idk would the flange damage the front of the wheel? Not sure what your wheels look like
 
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The Raven

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Yeah I was thinking about having a giant steel washer fabricated...but figured i'd check to see if something like that already exists. It's usually cheaper to buy it than have someone create it for you.

The hubcentric ring idea is not going to work because they fit within the bore. They are not designed to support the static weight of a wheel/tire combo. So whether plastic or aluminum, used this way, they'll compress and break.
 

Tonyv__

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Yeah I was thinking about having a giant steel washer fabricated...but figured i'd check to see if something like that already exists. It's usually cheaper to buy it than have someone create it for you.

The hubcentric ring idea is not going to work because they fit within the bore. They are not designed to support the static weight of a wheel/tire combo. So whether plastic or aluminum, used this way, they'll compress and break.

I see now… i didn’t zoom into the pic at first. The metal is barely wide enough to hold the wheel. I thought centering the hanger with a hub centric spacer would help center the hanger. But I see that doesn’t help.

what does the front of the wheel look like?
 
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The Raven

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I see now… i didn’t zoom into the pic at first. The metal is barely wide enough to hold the wheel. I thought centering the hanger with a hub centric spacer would help center the hanger. But I see that doesn’t help.

what does the front of the wheel look like?

The area around the hub bore is pretty flat. So a giant washer of the right size should work fine. That's the only plan I have right now. Only question is if I need to fabricate one or if washers of that size already exist.
 

Tonyv__

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The area around the hub bore is pretty flat. So a giant washer of the right size should work fine. That's the only plan I have right now. Only question is if I need to fabricate one or if washers of that size already exist.
I’d get 2 steelies a from a junkyard and just gind out the centers. I say 2 if your worried about the strength of 1
 
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The Raven

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If they have the same opening as your OE wheels (both being hub centric) why would these holes be any larger than an OE spare? Or is there shrinkage of the "claw thingy?"

They use hubcentric adapter rings. This is what the vast majority of aftermarket wheel manufacturers do...they make the bore large enough to fit the largest hub they intend the wheel to fit, and then offer adapters for all smaller applications. So you snap the adapters into the hub bore on the wheel, and then the wheel fits snugly on the hub.
 

Shackman7878

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Ran into this issue, Had to cut the spare from my Yukon XL 2500 4x4. When I got a replacement from a Suburban 1500 come to find out the the 4x4 center bore is bigger then 2wd model. Made a ugly repair due to camping inside the Yukon and spare takes up a lot of room. Look for ones with wider lift point.

Another thing If you have the chassis with the back 10 gallon tank you will need to buy the shorter one.
 

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The Raven

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Ran into this issue, Had to cut the spare from my Yukon XL 2500 4x4. When I got a replacement from a Suburban 1500 come to find out the the 4x4 center bore is bigger then 2wd model. Made a ugly repair due to camping inside the Yukon and spare takes up a lot of room. Look for ones with wider lift point.

Another thing If you have the chassis with the back 10 gallon tank you will need to buy the shorter one.

That's a great idea too. I just wonder how you got it on there. Did you rivet it together after putting the claw through it?
 

Shackman7878

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Used rivets do not have a welder at this time.
Black is the claw. Red is plate cut slightly smaller than the claw thread it one side then the other,
Gray is the squares I cut and riveted on each side behind the edges of the claw and give it some strength.
You will need to measure the hub opening and from one lug hole to the other and cut steel to fit and rounded the edges
Made this with leftover steel in my garage.

Part number 22968178 or Doman 92451. Amazon had aftermarket ones but you call on using them. Highly recommend using a Silicone or graphite spray inside the hoist itself and running it up and down a couple times.

If you buy the Doman one, get it from Local auto part store Autozone Etc with a lifetime warranty behind it.

As part of my spare tire kit I put a hacksaw/heavy duty lineman pliers/Small bolt cutters in there in case the hoist gets jammed and I have to cut the cable to drop the spare.
 

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