adding a block heater?

[j91z28d1]

mine doesn't have the K05 rpo code.. does anyone know of the most oem way to add one?

figuring the oem would be most reliable but I did see something about the oem one only working below 0. which would work, but seems like a bit of a waste?

 

[mikez71]

Last time I checked, I think it was about a $50 part.. Why does it only work below 0? Maybe it's just not really needed above 0?

 

[j91z28d1]

I don't know, something I read on a thread there saying they didn't work above 0 and if you mod the plug the check engine light comes on. but I have know idea if that's correct.

 

[Charlie207]

Last time I checked, I think it was about a $50 part.. Why does it only work below 0? Maybe it's just not really needed above 0?

I've had good oil gel in the sump at temps a few degrees warmer than that. It sucks.

If I was going to do it, I'd get a decent adhesive heater pad, and a smart plug, and set a timer to activate the plug a couple hours before I plan to leave the house. (That's if you have a plug nearby).

I don't, so I just bought a strong battery.

 

[B-train]

If you choose to do a coolant type, you'll have to drain all thr coolant to get the freeze plug style in the block. I'm not a fan of these for many reasons. Your other option is to find a threaded block plug, install a hose barb, and use a stand alone heater that works off convection. The outlet will need to dump somewhere higher up in the block system. (Maybe even a heater hose or waterpump connection) You just want to make a circle effect in the block, not the radiator.

Generators use these and they work very good and have a built in thermostat. It will require more work, but is easy to service or replace as needed. Just make sure to put in ball valves at the hard connections (block).

There are other models that have a small circulation pump as well.

 

[89Suburban]

I've used the one in the past on my older squarebody's that go inline with the main radiator hose. I installed them on the lower hose so the heated coolant would rise through the system. Left plugged in overnight at 21* the next morning the cylinder heads would be around 80*.

 

[mikez71]

I don't know, something I read on a thread there saying they didn't work above 0 and if you mod the plug the check engine light comes on. but I have know idea if that's correct.

Just read about a thermostat in the cord (K05 heater) that only works from -20 to 0 degrees F.
Possibly can modify the wire, but that radiator hose setup looks easiest!

 

[Doubeleive]

I don't know, something I read on a thread there saying they didn't work above 0 and if you mod the plug the check engine light comes on. but I have know idea if that's correct.

no chedk engine light will happen from a block heater, all it does is screw into the block and provides a 2 pin connector for the cord that you plug in.
there is nothing more to it, it doesn't have any kind of connection to the electronics of the vehicle in any way shape or form
it's just a heater like any heater that you would plug in. the exception is it does not turn on unless the temp drops to 0 deg.
it is old school, plug it in and that's that, they have been the same for my entire life and I am 56
if you wanted it to come on before 0 deg, you could try searching for any block heater that turns on at a higher temp and just adapt it.
the fitting is going to be npt, size may vary
here is universal type one, you could ask the seller at what temp it turns on they do not show that info
for the most part all block heaters are similar and have been for a long time
**note this heater i linked below may not fit due to depth of the element, but could maybe be adapted anyway you would need to check the depth on the block where the oem goes

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[j91z28d1]

If you choose to do a coolant type, you'll have to drain all thr coolant to get the freeze plug style in the block. I'm not a fan of these for many reasons. Your other option is to find a threaded block plug, install a hose barb, and use a stand alone heater that works off convection. The outlet will need to dump somewhere higher up in the block system. (Maybe even a heater hose or waterpump connection) You just want to make a circle effect in the block, not the radiator.

Generators use these and they work very good and have a built in thermostat. It will require more work, but is easy to service or replace as needed. Just make sure to put in ball valves at the hard connections (block).

There are other models that have a small circulation pump as well.

View attachment 419279
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what don't you like about the screw in element kind? it's cold here like 10 days a year.. it's more of an annoying thing, the wife pre starts poor thing about 3 times so it's nice and warm. the screw in block one seems to be the easiest to me? I would like one that's on anytime it's plugged in. the quicker the heat comes up to temp the better haha. I was curious how modding the oem one would cause a check engine light. that would be pretty weird.

I just put all new hoses on it, it would hurt my soul to cut one in half haha.

 

[B-train]

If the OEM one screws in, then use that one. I thought it was a freeze plug style - which can be prone to leaks

Edit: I didn't look at the previous link. I now see. Use that one

 

[j91z28d1]

only thing I found about them setting check engine lights is a comment someone made that it's possible because the engine coolent temp sensor reads so much different than the air intake sensor they run super rough at start up and set a miss fire code.

i guess that's possible.. be interesting to see.

 

[Doubeleive]

only thing I found about them setting check engine lights is a comment someone made that it's possible because the engine coolent temp sensor reads so much different than the air intake sensor they run super rough at start up and set a miss fire code.

i guess that's possible.. be interesting to see.

feasable I guess, the things are not even needed unless it happens to dip below -18

 

[B-train]

I don't see how the temp difference between the block and intake air would be relevant, or set a code. My work truck had 198F coolant this week with-13F intake air. Shouldn't matter.

 

[j91z28d1]

might be a cranking fuel thing..

I'm going to pick one up, but probably be next year by the time I get it installed and we get another freeze here.


I agree, totally not needed. just a want.

 

[TwoBigBoys n dog]

mine doesn't have the K05 rpo code.. does anyone know of the most oem way to add one?

figuring the oem would be most reliable but I did see something about the oem one only working below 0. which would work, but seems like a bit of a waste?

I had the dealership put one in my '18 Yukon Denali as part of purchase and have pictures on a different thread on how I ran the cable out via the fog light surround. Will confirm it worked while in Montana last week @ -36'f.

 

[tenthirty2]

I had a block heater installed in my 2008 Tahoe LT 5.3 LMG. It was installed in the block in the freeze plug where the factory heater would install on the drivers side. I think the part number for mine was KAT 11484. If I use the block heater above 15F or so it sets a DTC.

Conditions for Running the DTC

• The ignition is ON.

• DTCs P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0128, P0502, P0503 are not set.

• The start-up IAT is more than -7°C (+20°F).

• The vehicle has a minimum ignition OFF time of 10 hours.

• DTC P0116 runs once per drive cycle when the above conditions are met.


Conditions for Setting the DTC

• The start-up ECT is more than the start-up IAT by 100°C (180°F). OR

• The start-up ECT is more than the start-up IAT by 15°C (27°F), then the vehicle must be driven for more than 400 seconds over 24 km/h (15 mph). If the IAT sensor temperature decreases more than 8°C (14°F), a block heater is detected and the test is aborted. If the IAT sensor temperature does not decrease, a block heater was not detected and DTC P0116 sets.


Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.

The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.


Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

• The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

• A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.

• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.

• Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

 

[mikez71]

Great info! Interesting..

So the code should never set below 20 deg F.. When you really need the heater, it shouldn't throw a code.

I don't get the logic where the IAT must decrease 14+ degrees F (when its already 27+ degrees cooler than the coolant)

But... it doesn't sound like there is any handicap when the code sets.. and it will self clear eventually..
More of a 'check your IAT and ECT, because they aren't matching up on a cold start' kind of code.

I'd rather have the option of it heating above 20 degrees than not throw a code. Though I doubt I'd plug it in above 20 degree anyway..

 

[j91z28d1]

huh. I. wonder if that fault can be turned off in hp tuners.

I gotta get one of these installed to play with.

 

[mikez71]

huh. I. wonder if that fault can be turned off in hp tuners.

I gotta get one of these installed to play with.

If it is P0116 ECT sensor 1 citrcuit/performance, then yes, it can be turned off.
Factory setting is configured as "MIL on 2nd error"

 

[j91z28d1]

If it is P0116 ECT sensor range/performance, then yes, it can be turned off.
It is configured as "MIL on 2nd error"

nice.. thanks for looking. my hp laptop is who knows where in the house right now lol.

I have already licensed it to turn off afm, so that would be handy too.