AC problem 01 Yukon XL 5.3 w/rear air

[MassHoe04]

Where am I looking for this control module? Are you referring to this?

Yes, that is the front control module.
We have a lot of experienced folks here. @rockola1971 is an excellent resource for diagnosing electronic control systems.

 

[LordWayback]

You likely would NOT need shims with a new clutch. Id be more worried about the possibility of compressor being locked up causing the clutch to slip.

I was referring to shimming the clutch that’s already on there a clapped oem part> Chinese knock off that’s not even carried at a parts store or branded.

 

[LordWayback]

up a bit and to the left of the actuator hes taking off.

I have a O1 my system looks completely different you talking about this?

 

[LordWayback]

If so I don’t think mine is any good looks like corrosion?

 

[Scottydoggs]

If so I don’t think mine is any good looks like corrosion?

that looks like a problem to me.

 

[LordWayback]

that looks like a problem to me.

I cleaned all that junk off still nothing above feet level in the front vents I’m at a loss

 

[LordWayback]

After a short amount of time running it like 30 seconds with time to cool it reached past 140* with no compressor actually activating to circulate hot air into the compressor and make it hit normal temps. At this point it’s either a locked compressor or badly slipping clutch to be going that hot without actively circulating the heat , another update the blower isn’t working out of the vents in the front besides side ones and feet ones. I think the switch board as suggested earlier may be messed up both blower fans are working as they should. I’m thinking it’s actuators or the switch being bad but I’m assuming I can ignore that as it won’t stop the compressor from working Atleast for now. from what I can tell the clutch is getting power. My money is on the compressor locking up which sucks, it sounds like the oem coil is in fact activating but I’ll know for sure if the compressor is shot by late Saturday.

 

[LordWayback]

On Saturday if possible I’ll double check the refrigerant levels if they’re normal combined with all the diagnostics we’ve done here/ parts it’ll be down to a new compressor/high-low pressure switches. If a new compressor is required I’ll sadly have to take it in cannot evacuate the system myself and at that point it’s already in the shop might aswell install it for a few hundred more.

 

[LordWayback]

Well shit, dead compressor that belt was brand new before I tried to keep running the AC.

 

[LordWayback]

Well shit, dead compressor that belt was brand new before I tried to keep running the AC.View attachment 374203

Actually upon closer inspection the clutch exploded it’s all slumped over n stuff.

 

[MassHoe04]

Actually upon closer inspection the clutch exploded it’s all slumped over n stuff.

Does it look like the clutch will do it or is the compressor completely toasted?

 

[rockola1971]

Does it look like the clutch will do it or is the compressor completely toasted?

That belt disintegrated because the compressor is locked up tighter than a whistle. What many people often overlook is when the a/c system leaks refrigerant, it is also leaking out lube oil. They add the refrigerant but dont add any oil and after some years of doing this eventually the whole system lacks sufficient oil charge and the already worn compressor is now running with little to no lube oil and she dies and throws her guts up all in the system. So to fix this system right it is going to need at the very least compressor, drier, condenser coil, oring kit, orifice tube (front), TXV (rear) and some say even new evaporators. It is just so much cheaper to replace a compressor before it dies then all that is needed is just a compressor, drier, oring kit, orifice tube and you are on your way.
My advice to anyone with 200K+(maybe even as low as 150k) on original compressor is to replace before it dies.(If they are planning on driving the vehicle until the frame falls in half or the wheels fall off).

 

[LordWayback]

Does it look like the clutch will do it or is the compressor completely toasted?

Both look toast the compressor feels locked up I’m gonna have to give it to a shop and probably spend $2,000 or so if I want AC

 

[LordWayback]

That belt disintegrated because the compressor is locked up tighter than a whistle. What many people often overlook is when the a/c system leaks refrigerant, it is also leaking out lube oil. They add the refrigerant but dont add any oil and after some years of doing this eventually the whole system lacks sufficient oil charge and the already worn compressor is now running with little to no lube oil and she dies and throws her guts up all in the system. So to fix this system right it is going to need at the very least compressor, drier, condenser coil, oring kit, orifice tube (front), TXV (rear) and some say even new evaporators. It is just so much cheaper to replace a compressor before it dies then all that is needed is just a compressor, drier, oring kit, orifice tube and you are on your way.
My advice to anyone with 200K+(maybe even as low as 150k) on original compressor is to replace before it dies.(If they are planning on driving the vehicle until the frame falls in half or the wheels fall off).

The parts are only like $300 (circa parts website I found) but it’s 8-12 hours of labor if you cannot do it yourself, the previous owners had it recharged with a oil/refrigerant mix at a shop so that wasn’t the problem unless they way overshot the charge levels @ low 1xxk.


I’m pretty sure it pooped the bed (shaft doesn’t wanna move)

I’m also gonna have to have the heater side of the system looked at because my defroster isn’t working (I wake up at 5:30 am M-F 50* mornings frost the windows (by 9am it’s 90-115* and I can’t come in later).

But I’m looking at more than the parts listed in the $300 compressor kit including but not limited to the front switch module , actuator,heater core , random fitment parts like o rings , orifice tubes, and possibly a thermostat.


Because the defroster isn’t working, in the state of California because my car came equipped with one it’s technically not even street legal right now for visibility safety reasons and in winter it can stay under 75* during the day and night time/early morning dips hard to where I won’t see anything.

 

[LordWayback]

That belt disintegrated because the compressor is locked up tighter than a whistle. What many people often overlook is when the a/c system leaks refrigerant, it is also leaking out lube oil. They add the refrigerant but dont add any oil and after some years of doing this eventually the whole system lacks sufficient oil charge and the already worn compressor is now running with little to no lube oil and she dies and throws her guts up all in the system. So to fix this system right it is going to need at the very least compressor, drier, condenser coil, oring kit, orifice tube (front), TXV (rear) and some say even new evaporators. It is just so much cheaper to replace a compressor before it dies then all that is needed is just a compressor, drier, oring kit, orifice tube and you are on your way.
My advice to anyone with 200K+(maybe even as low as 150k) on original compressor is to replace before it dies.(If they are planning on driving the vehicle until the frame falls in half or the wheels fall off).

It’s most definitely leaking but when I had it inspected it wasn’t enough to cause the issue supposedly it just decided to poop out because it’s nearing 22 years old

I called around and apparently she had all this stuff checked out and she lied about what she had inspected
and the results with the ac inspection

they detected a leak and that the compressor was going out and she said she wasn’t paying for it and then the compressor locked up and blew out and she said they said it just needed a belt well they told her a lot more than that , grocery list of AC/heater parts. It would’ve been 4 hours of labor and $300 of parts to fix it at that time (~$800>) and now it’s far more than that just in labor if I cannot complete it myself if I wanna have AC.

the worst part about this news is I already have tons of other little things but once the AC, braking issue
(brake booster/master cylinder/ABS light) , steering issue is fixed it should run perfect besides what I think is a amplifier issue I’m too deep monetarily in this car to back out now it’s got 162,*** miles with a rebuilt transmission I think,


I believe they rebuilt the tranny among other issues then the ac blew out and then smog was coming up and they said F this car and bought a little Hyundai.

 

[rockola1971]

You should be able to remove compressor yourself and replace, replace oring, drier and orifice tube all in your driveway. You will have to decide whether you will be replacing condenser coil or not. Once complete then have garage vacuum it down, check for leaks and charge the system. This will save you the labor for parts you replaced and markup on those parts. Shop around for a vacuum and recharge price.

 

[RAMurphy]

Rockola is right on. I had a compressor ten years ago that gave me indications it was failing, throwing and destroying belts on a random basis, but I ignored the issue. Then it catastrophically failed and at the same time through crap throughout the entire system and freon into the atmosphere - quite an impressive sight. A shop wanted $2,500+ to get the system up and running. I ended up replacing the compressor, condenser, drier, and orifice tube and then took it to a shop to add the freon and check for leaks. The one other thing I did was completely flush/cleaned all the lines. Took nearly a complete day to flush and dry the lines. Other then time consuming it was straight forward and easy to do. Plenty of info on how on the internet and on this forum. The a/c is still running perfectly today.