AC Not working, help troubleshoot.

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OR VietVet

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I don't know if mine has climate control or not. I will look at the controls tonight. It has dual controls driver/passenger, temperature, but I am not sure if it actually controls it automatically
The auto temp control does not, as far as I know, control the individual side to side driver/passenger temps. It monitors the inside temp and adjusts the a/c operation accordingly but you still have the separate side to side controls.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Blower and Climate Control issues have been resolved.

All fuses appear to be good.

No clutch actuation at all. No detectable response of any kind when pushing the AC button. Have not tried the test circuit yet.

I have a gauge set and two 12 ounce cans of 134. Is it worth trying to gas it to see what happens?
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Dunno. You tell me. Got one of these gizmos, but I have no idea how to use it. Dials remain the same, no change no matter what I do, engine off, engine on, AC off, AC on, knobs open or closed.

I have a vacuum also. Does the yellow hose need to be connected to it, or to a coolant can?


Gauges2.jpg


Gauges1.jpg
 

Eman85

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Strange to get nothing, even air would have pressure from the heat in a closed system. Are the valves that attach to the vehicle, red and blue opened, if not you won't get any reading. If they are then open the red and or blue at the gauges and see if anything comes out of the yellow. If nothing comes out of the yellow hook your vacum pump to the yellow and with all of the valves open see if it will pull down into a vacum. If it does allow it to run and see how far it pulls it down, then shut the valves on the gauges and shut the vacum pump off and observe the gauges over time and see if it holds a vacum.
 

exp500

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If your vacuum pump won't pull it down, You probably need to fab an adaptor to put pressure in from your air compressor, spray some foamy soap around hoses and fittings. Usually the ones over the engine go first, and they are all old enough to be rotten. Still cheap a few months ago at rock auto. I usually change the condenser when changing compressor.
 

OR VietVet

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And accumulator and orifice. Compressor companies insist on a new accumulator when changing. Flush the system too.
 

j91z28d1

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honestly I think your compressor is toast and or you don't have the valves on your gauge open.

youtube a quick video on the gauges.

do you have a vacuum pump? if so just spend the 200$ or whatever they are up to these days to get a new compressor, but not a auto parts store. get a sanden, they made a drop in for these trucks, they aren't rebuild and does away with all the failure points. check their website, you can order directly or find the part number and get it someplace else but don't get a knock off sanden design. get the real thing.


it's always best to replace the accumulators/dryer that's on the fire wall and flush the system, but most times you won't be able to. the lines will be frozen up and you'll twit the tubes off the evaporator behind the dash. you'll have to remove the dash to replace that. the orifice tube is worth replacing if it will break free, they usually do but if not. to me not worth damaging the whole system. just throw the compressor on, vacuum the system down and charge with the correct amount of r134 and you'll probably be fine. that compressor is bullet proof and stuff that will destroy any normal compressor just doesn't kill these. in my experience it out lasts the truck.


unless you got time and money to replace everything, if so definitely do it.



this looks like a leaking body seal to me.
Gauges1~2.jpg
 

Bigfish95971

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Can you jump the compressor clutch wire somewhere up top or do you have to unplug it to get to it?
 
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