A/C Clutch /compressor issue can bad Alternator or low voltage cause failure 2006 Yukon XL?

[Shielahs]

I have a 2006 Yukon XL Denali 6.0
I replaced the water pump a couple months ago, then started getting a loud squeal out of my AC clutch, but I still had cold air.
We replaced the AC clutch in about two weeks later it seized. So we took the belt off and ordered a new compressor - though the shaft moves freely on my original -no issues -
At first I thought maybe the compressor may have caused the clutch to go out but now I’m wondering if it could a voltage issue ?
either it not getting enough voltage or having a short to cause the clutch to go out on the AC compressor?

Now it seems like I’m having a hard start and I checked the battery. It was at about 75% -should I just charge it get a new battery first ?
Or could my battery be low bc of a failing alternator ? And how do I test the alternator?
And if so could the alternator failing have caused the issue with the battery and could that have cause an issue with my AC clutch ?
I don’t want go replace my Compressor if it was caused by low-voltage or bad alternator not charging the battery to give enough voltage-
Does it work that way ? Now my batter light came on this morning.
I’m a learning DIY work in my car and I want the proper order of taking care of this and figuring out the failure
thanks in advance .

 

[swathdiver]

A battery with a state of charge of 75% is still good. Did you test this out in the morning after letting the battery sit overnight? What was its voltage in the morning along with the ambient air temperature?

Your car has RVC, Regulated Voltage Control. A computer controls the output of the alternator.

At 19 years old, it's not uncommon to have multiple unrelated issues.

If it's time for a new alternator, think I would replace that first.

 

[Shielahs]

It was not in the morning it was a few hours after a short drive .
It was hot/raining/humid 90° or so
It seemed hard to start the past few starts so tested the battery . I had read that if the alternator was bad or not working as it should that the AC would not get the amount of voltage that it needed to run right or recharge ?
Something to do with that - so that’s why I wondered if the alternator was going bad - if that would’ve caused the failure on the AC clutch the clutch that was replaced was a GM. My AC had been running cold air the entire time but the way it squealed when I tuned on the ac I replaced the clutch then after 2 weeks was nared up and seize made me wonder what happened since it fixed the squeal and was working fine…. The noise started after I replaced the water pump ,
But The shaft in the compressor turns freely . I realize it it’s common for things to go out. I’ve always had older cars. It just seemed too coincidental to have so many issues right in a row when I’ve not had any issues and it’s only got 135,000 miles on it.

 

[Fless]

A/C issue is unlikely unrelated. But first things first -- have the battery "load tested" and the alternator tested at a trusted auto parts store. Go forward from there.

 

[rockola1971]

If you own a voltmeter and know how to use it, stick on the battery positive and negative while engine is running. You should see 13.8vdc+. If you see anything much lower then you have bad alternator hot wire to battery positive connection OR your alternator is done. Auto parts stores will check yours for free but you have to remove it and bring it in to them.

 

[Shielahs]

A battery with a state of charge of 75% is still good. Did you test this out in the morning after letting the battery sit overnight? What was its voltage in the morning along with the ambient air temperature?

Your car has RVC, Regulated Voltage Control. A computer controls the output of the alternator.

At 19 years old, it's not uncommon to have multiple unrelated issues.

If it's time for a new alternator, think I would replace that first.

Well we got a new compressor, took to a shop they installed & replaced orifice tube and drier- they called today said still no cold air- that the compressor must be bad- I got a new oem one- I don’t really think it’s bad- what else wills make it not get cold or is there a way to check the compressor to make sure it’s good?

 

[swathdiver]

Well we got a new compressor, took to a shop they installed & replaced orifice tube and drier- they called today said still no cold air- that the compressor must be bad- I got a new oem one- I don’t really think it’s bad- what else wills make it not get cold or is there a way to check the compressor to make sure it’s good?

Well, you can apply voltage to engage the clutch. An OE pump ought to have PAG oil in it. Did the shop test the controller and all the ancilliary components? Do those older trucks have the little aspirator above the driver in the headliner?