99 tahoe misfire, win some,lose some

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Kenny

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Man this has been a little annoying. I had a thread open some time ago with little to no help regardimg my specific problem and everything ive found seems to be closed out with no answers. So, im hoping that this thread will bring some ideas or help the next person with similar issues.

How i got here: Bought the truck with the intention of spending some money on getting it to run smoothly. I was aware of the misfire and thought it to be something simple,not the case.

Quick Notes: 99 Tahoe,182k,5.7L Vortec. Vehicle had exhaust leak at Cat flange to manifold when i bought it, no biggie,heavy heavy misfire when it first warmed up but ran fine cold or could barely feel a misfire if there was one. Have thrown some money at it to no avail just yet.

The long story:
When I was purchasing the truck, i showed up to the kids house ,it started right up. No issues. No hesitation. Literally,turn key and split second to start. Ran smooth with a slight backfire (intermittent,figured it was from the exhaust leak,ecm thinking it was lean and dumping fuel).as i was letting it run and walking around the vehicle, it's like a switch went off and started misfiring..badly. to the point where it almost stalled... backfiring .."pop ,pop,pop" and a cloud of black smoke and then again,switched back to run fine,revs came up, smoothed out. Screw it. Gave the kid some money and grabbed the keys. Whats the worst that can happen?

So, i get it home. Ran fine for over an hour on the highway with a barely noticeable miss. If any. I say barely noticeable because i could feel something but at the time it was so loud and i couldnt tell if i was feeling a miss or the leak. HA.
Anyways,it would only start to run like crap when i would slow down and idle for a few seconds. But then itd kick itself out of its mood and run right again. Only when i got home and spent some time looking around and finally putting a scanner on it did i realize what it was doing.

Quick Diag notes:
Starts right up, smooth quiet motor during OPEN LOOP (coldstart) ,quiet besides the exhaust leak at this point.Once it warmed up,it switches to closed loop and thats exactly when the misfire starts. Bad. Lasting maybee 1 minute max. Then ,something weird happens. It kicked itself back into open loop? What gives? Started reading O2s ,voltage on primary and secondary were too low,(lazy) i had put up some pictures of the data readings i got on my other thread. It had a P0171,P0174,P0300 code. Fuel trims were ridiculously high. 25% to 50% percent positive!! Truck seemed to run better when at a steady RPM (ex:my highway drive home)

Well, at this point the truck wasnt registered,so i spent a little time over a few weekends doing the usual. Spark plugs,oil change, air filter,clean MAF,IAT,removed MAP sensor and cleaned out some gunk in it,didnt touch the wires or cap since previous owner had just replaced it in hopes of fixing the issue. Checked for vac leaks, checked PCV vac, checked the wire orientation..etc. Everytime i did something , i checked for the issue again,and everytime.. The problem was still there. Though, unless i was a little crazy, after cleaning the hell out of the MAF it seemed to run great for about 30min. Thought i fixed it, woke up and started the next morning and same problem came up.

As of today..Registered the truck, took it to an exhaust shop. They fixed the leak at the flange and i had them replace all 4 o2 sensors. I brought the truck home last night. Its quiet now, still starts up great,misfire is easier felt now at any temp, now it stays in closed loop. Set a code for P0302 earlier..

Im debating on what to do next, i hate throwing parts at cars to fix problems and id like to figure out the true cause before doing so. Any ideas? If not my plan of attack is:
.Change MAF Sensor and MAP sensor
.Check EGR Valve,clean and reinstall?
.Coolant temp sensor? Though now i feel as if this cant be it since it stays in closed loop.
.doubt its fuel pressure since i have zero problems starting or at WOT
.
Ideas? Suggestions.
 
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Kenny

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Forgot to mention, fuel trims are negatives now... no matter the revs.
Maf reads between .86 to 4.3 lb/m between idle and say 70% TPS. Map reads at a steady 9.x "hG during idle. Drops slightly at 2-3.5k RPMs,to say 8.x "hG and if i let off the gas quick drops to 6.x"hG. IAT readings are correct in relation to OTemp.
 
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Kenny

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See pic
20151121_194950.jpg
 

ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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yer thread was alot to read but i mite have a similar problem
mine is an 01 suburban witha 5.3 and when it starts up cold its real noise for a few seconds till the oil gets up in it
but it continues to idle really rough misfires here and there rpms all over the place it even knocks like a diesel but then once its warmed up it runs and idles perfect
imean there isnt the slightest hint of a miss or anything the RPMs dont even fluctuate in the slightest it idles like a few RPMs over 500 even my tahoe fluctuated between 500 and 600
 
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Kenny

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yer thread was alot to read but i mite have a similar problem
mine is an 01 suburban witha 5.3 and when it starts up cold its real noise for a few seconds till the oil gets up in it
but it continues to idle really rough misfires here and there rpms all over the place it even knocks like a diesel but then once its warmed up it runs and idles perfect
imean there isnt the slightest hint of a miss or anything the RPMs dont even fluctuate in the slightest it idles like a few RPMs over 500 even my tahoe fluctuated between 500 and 600

Your problem seems to be the opposite. I suggest looking for vac leaks. I dont know why i keep thinking there isnt a perfect way to diag a leaking intake gasket. I wonder if im chasin my tail here.
 

ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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i just firgured it out i had both valve covers off a little while back and i guess either in the process of removing or putting back on the i creased the PCV hose and since its a pretty old hose so it just ripped in half at the crease and i never noticed i just put a new one in at it idles just fine now
 
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Kenny

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Oop sorry sunlit. Didnt realize you posted. It has a hard P0302, and a pending P0302 as of earlier today. I verified it stays in closed loop now. I took out the #2 plug to make sure it was dry and it was fine. Not fouled from what can see.
 
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Kenny

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I also took a look at the intake mani, there seems to be a wet spot at the wayy back near the firewall. Didnt smell like much but i couldnt tell where it was coming from. I topped off the coolant and will keep an eye on it its not my daily driver so its tough to spend time with it.
 
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Kenny

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At this point. Im leaning towards replacing the fuel spider, but when i was back there it looks like the schrader valve cover was missing, anyone know of a way to tell if somethings been replaced? Would a leak at the very back of the intake mani cause a misfire on #2 cylinder?
 
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Kenny

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Oop sorry sunlit. Didnt realize you posted. It has a hard P0302, and a pending P0302 as of earlier today. I verified it stays in closed loop now. I took out the #2 plug to make sure it was dry and it was fine. Not fouled from what can see.
Sunlit, did you see this? Do i have the wrong impression of forums? Im not sure where the attitude is from ,but if anyone can actually be helpful instead of a dick its be great.

For the sake of being helpful and using the forum for its intended purposes..anyone thats run into this problem: im working on a plan of steps and diags. But, one thing to note. The closed loop and open loop cycling stopped as soon as i repaired an exhaust leak before the cats. Which doesnt make too much sense,considering the truck was up to temp. But hey, if you run into a weird issue. You gotta look at everything. I did replace my o2s as well, mostly because i was throwing the p0171 x code and oncee it threw a p0134 code. Not too expensive. About 50 bucks each from autozone.
 

SunlitComet

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i saw it. and i don't ask questions to be of no help. an answer to the question i posted would have been more helpful. no dickery intended. unless i think you won't understand a question and be able to follow thru with it i don't go into details of it just yet. it makes sense because you effectively changed the condition of the cats as seen by the post cats sensor and the pcm responded as per it programming.
 
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Kenny

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i saw it. and i don't ask questions to be of no help. an answer to the question i posted would have been more helpful. no dickery intended. unless i think you won't understand a question and be able to follow thru with it i don't go into details of it just yet. it makes sense because you effectively changed the condition of the cats as seen by the post cats sensor and the pcm responded as per it programming.

I did answer. There is a confirmed P0302 code and a pending p0302. I guess it does make sense as far as it fixing the codes,however. Cycling between open and closed loop constantly? Even after being warm? Just nothing ive seen before.
Anyways, its been tough getting time to work on it. Ill probably start on it again this weekend.
 

SunlitComet

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that was not an answer to the misfire history. looks like this.
83877Figure4Cad_00000039358.jpg

it is used to verify misfires and how bad they are to help determine their accuracy and by knowing how to read between the lines with other data can also help determining what components is malfunctioning.

you had just provided diagnostic trouble codes. there are some good books that explain this stuff if you want to learn more about it.
 

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