4L60E Trans Temps while Towing

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NathanS

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I have an 07 Tahoe 5.3L AFM/DOD deleted with stage 2 TS cam. Circle D 2600 300mm converter. I installed an aftermarket cooler and when towing my camper I'm still getting temps close to 210. If I were to bypass the factory cooler in the radiator would it help keep the temps down.
 

swathdiver

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I have an 07 Tahoe 5.3L AFM/DOD deleted with stage 2 TS cam. Circle D 2600 300mm converter. I installed an aftermarket cooler and when towing my camper I'm still getting temps close to 210. If I were to bypass the factory cooler in the radiator would it help keep the temps down.

Maybe, tell us how the external is plumbed with the one in the radiator.
 
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NathanS

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factory hose still goes into the top of the radiator, the bottom hose has been cut and its ran into the aftermarket cooler and out back to the trans
 
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NathanS

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aftermarket cooler

IMG_1368.JPG
 
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NathanS

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I was just thinking if you have 210 degree water flowing through the radiator then how much could it really cool the trans fluid.
 
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intheburbs

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These trucks are designed to have operating transmission temperatures around 190°-200°.

Seeing 210° while towing is no issue at all.
 
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NathanS

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If it consistently sits b/w 200-210 while towing a 5500lb trailer can’t be good. And if it gets to 210 or higher I’d like it to be able to cool quicker.
 

swathdiver

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factory hose still goes into the top of the radiator, the bottom hose has been cut and its ran into the aftermarket cooler and out back to the trans

That's what I thought. Fluid goes from the transmission into the bottom of the radiator and out the top then into the external cooler and back to the transmission.

Your setup is going from the transmission to the external cooler and then through the radiator and back to the transmission defeating the purpose of the external cooler.

Normal operating temperature is 180-200 degrees. The warnings and CELs don't happen until temperatures exceed 260 degrees.
 

intheburbs

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If it consistently sits b/w 200-210 while towing a 5500lb trailer can’t be good. And if it gets to 210 or higher I’d like it to be able to cool quicker.

Again, you're only slightly elevated over normal design parameters Don't worry about it. Dex6 is pretty impressive stuff.

Here is when you should start getting concerned (for the record, I wasn't)
H2EL8bV.jpg
 
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NathanS

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That's what I thought. Fluid goes from the transmission into the bottom of the radiator and out the top then into the external cooler and back to the transmission.

Your setup is going from the transmission to the external cooler and then through the radiator and back to the transmission defeating the purpose of the external cooler.

Normal operating temperature is 180-200 degrees. The warnings and CELs don't happen until temperatures exceed 260 degrees.

I had originally thought about that but wasn't for sure so i just went with it. I'll switch it around and see of that helps. Thanks

My other issue is its crazy loud. 1 3/4 longtube headers and cat-less y pipe into 18" magna flow muffler. I need to figure out how to quieten it down. I thought about adding in a short resonator before the muffler.
 

Tonyrodz

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I had originally thought about that but wasn't for sure so i just went with it. I'll switch it around and see of that helps. Thanks

My other issue is its crazy loud. 1 3/4 longtube headers and cat-less y pipe into 18" magna flow muffler. I need to figure out how to quieten it down. I thought about adding in a short resonator before the muffler.
@kbuskill might know.
 

kbuskill

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My other issue is its crazy loud. 1 3/4 longtube headers and cat-less y pipe into 18" magna flow muffler. I need to figure out how to quieten it down. I thought about adding in a short resonator before the muffler.

You will need more than a short resonator to quieten it down.

I have 1 5/8" primary tube shorties and deleted the cats and then went through multiple iterations of the exhaust until i got it to my liking.

My final setup is shorty headers > custom 2.25" Y-pipe > 30" Magnaflow 3 chamber muffler > factory tail pipe and resonator.

I am curious what you think about the 1 3/4" primary headers and no cats.... did you lose a lot of bottom end torque???

1.75" is pretty big for the 5.3l. I lost torque when I deleted the cats... that's why I had the smaller Y-pipe built... to regain the torque that was lost.


Now why would you think that??? Lol
 
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Tonyrodz

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You will need more than a short resonator to quieten it down.

I have 1 5/8" primary tube shorties and deleted the cats amd then went through multiple iterations of the exhaust until i got it to my liking.

My final setup is shorty headers > custom 2.25" Y-pipe > 30" Magnaflow 3 chamber muffler > factory tail pipe and resonator.



Now why would you think that??? Lol
Oh... Just a guess ;)
 
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NathanS

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You will need more than a short resonator to quieten it down.

I have 1 5/8" primary tube shorties and deleted the cats amd then went through multiple iterations of the exhaust until i got it to my liking.

My final setup is shorty headers > custom 2.25" Y-pipe > 30" Magnaflow 3 chamber muffler > factory tail pipe and resonator.

I am curious what you think about the 1 3/4" primary headers and no cats.... did you lose a lot of bottom end torque???

1.75" is pretty big for the 5.3l. I lost torque when I deleted the cats... that's why I had the smaller Y-pipe built... to regain the torque that was lost.



Now why would you think that??? Lol

I did all the upgrades at once. Deleted the DOD/AFM and installed the stage 2 .600 lift cam. Not sure i lost any bottom end torque but i do wish it would be better. It pulls really good when i get on it. The tuner adjusted the shift points to help with getting it in the right RPMs when it downshifts.

So getting this should help out?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnaflow-...581847&hash=item25dc70b2f1:g:RtIAAOSwxxVZf6UI
 

kbuskill

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I did all the upgrades at once. Deleted the DOD/AFM and installed the stage 2 .600 lift cam. Not sure i lost any bottom end torque but i do wish it would be better. It pulls really good when i get on it. The tuner adjusted the shift points to help with getting it in the right RPMs when it downshifts.

So getting this should help out?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnaflow-...581847&hash=item25dc70b2f1:g:RtIAAOSwxxVZf6UI

It definitely helped mine... I had to re install the factory resonator in order to get rid of the drone while cruising. The resonator didn't really change the sound outside too much but made a world of difference inside the cabin.
 

alpinecrick

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If I were to bypass the factory cooler in the radiator would it help keep the temps down.

No. Your engine coolant should be running somewhere around 195 degrees. The heat exchanger (auxiliary cooler) in the the radiator tank is acting as a pre-cooler for your external cooler.

You didn't tell us if you temp reading is downstream or upstream from your external cooler.
 

alpinecrick

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That's what I thought. Fluid goes from the transmission into the bottom of the radiator and out the top then into the external cooler and back to the transmission.

Your setup is going from the transmission to the external cooler and then through the radiator and back to the transmission defeating the purpose of the external cooler.

Normal operating temperature is 180-200 degrees. The warnings and CELs don't happen until temperatures exceed 260 degrees.

That would explain it.

Should have read the entire thread before I answered...........
 

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