3Inch Body Lift Asap

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Symba_The_Lyon

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Ok so i know that i have posted bought this subject before but i am buying the kit from summit (posted below) In aboght a week so i have a lot of question before i order it , I have a old school bull bar that uses brackets that hold on to the bumper that dos not use the frame, Will i still be able to install it back on the bumper after the kit is installed? Where can i buy a rear bumper bracket so there is not a gap (1996 Tahoe 2dr) Is there any part that is not included in the kit that i will have to buy separate like a fuel filler neck or and fuel filter extension? How do you install the the steering extension, What is the biggest tier size that you can run on a stock 16in rim with out changing the gear's, If you can wright it like this so i can understand you it would be very appreciated xD (265/75/16)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7812300
 

Gzes

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Ok lets see for your steering extension sell it you dont need it, the filler neck adapter is only for suburbans, get the rear bumoer bracket on ebay or make some, shift linkage will need to be extended. If its cable take the driver side seat out pull carpet and move the cable down more if metal take ot out cut amd add the rod thats in the kit, bull bar uses the tow hook location. Imo ditch it its gonna be weird getting it up more

---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

Tire size go with 33s. I got a 3in bd lift but i need to upgrade tires but mine ar new so....

---------- Post added at 11:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

You shoulda got the performance acessory kit. About the same and just more widely known. It will also take you.a couple days but REMEMBER to pb blast the body mount bolts days befkre and do it multiple times. I had one break and was such a pita... Pb blast em every day until you pull em. And do pass side first then driver side. Loosen all the bolts but take one side out first so the body doesnt shift
 
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Symba_The_Lyon

Symba_The_Lyon

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So Gzes the tier size would be 33/75/16? How bad do they rub at full turn? Well for the fuel filler neck the pvc tube that connects to the neck and to the gas tank will be long enough with the body lift? How would make rear bumper brackets? Can you make a ruff sketch on paint of something for me xD How would i extend the shift linkage? And the bull bar doesn't use the tow hooks they use bracket that they don't make any more Xp
 

EastTXYukon

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I see a lot of wrong information in this thread.

I installed a Summit Racing 3" BL on my 96 2 door. It was pretty straightforward; I've never done any kind of lift before. The Summit kit is the same as the Performance Accessories kit, just in a Summit box, and cheaper.

Ok lets see for your steering extension sell it you dont need it,

Wrong. Why in the world would you screw around with something as important as the steering? Yes, you can get by without the extension, but it's in the kit for a reason. Better safe than sorry. It's easy to put on, just take the bolt out of the steering shaft, insert the extension and retighten.

the filler neck adapter is only for suburbans

I had to use the filler next extension on my 2 door. Cut the rubber filler tube and insert the extension between the cut.

get the rear bumoer bracket on ebay or make some

There are no brackets to raise the rear bumper on a 2 door. The frame will have to be cut and rewelded. I did this on my 2 door to raise my rear bumper.


bull bar uses the tow hook location. Imo ditch it its gonna be weird getting it up more

You said your bull bar was bolted to your front bumper. If that is the case, it will be fine with the body lift. The kit from Summit comes with front bumper relocation brackets.


I would run 33's (metric 285/75, 295/75 or 305/75 are all about a 33" diameter tire. I run a 295/75/16 with the stock 3.42 gear ratio. I would love to regear to a 4.10, but the 3.42 isn't terrible.
 

Gzes

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I see a lot of wrong information in this thread.

I installed a Summit Racing 3" BL on my 96 2 door. It was pretty straightforward; I've never done any kind of lift before. The Summit kit is the same as the Performance Accessories kit, just in a Summit box, and cheaper.



Wrong. Why in the world would you screw around with something as important as the steering? Yes, you can get by without the extension, but it's in the kit for a reason. Better safe than sorry. It's easy to put on, just take the bolt out of the steering shaft, insert the extension and retighten.



I had to use the filler next extension on my 2 door. Cut the rubber filler tube and insert the extension between the cut.



There are no brackets to raise the rear bumper on a 2 door. The frame will have to be cut and rewelded. I did this on my 2 door to raise my rear bumper.



You said your bull bar was bolted to your front bumper. If that is the case, it will be fine with the body lift. The kit from Summit comes with front bumper relocation brackets.


I would run 33's (metric 285/75, 295/75 or 305/75 are all about a 33" diameter tire. I run a 295/75/16 with the stock 3.42 gear ratio. I would love to regear to a 4.10, but the 3.42 isn't terrible.


Many report that the steering extension gives play to the wheel and i didnt use it and have no problems, next the filler hose i didnt have to mess with it and its perfectly fine,
If the bull bar is on the bumper then its fine. I know what i was doing when doing my lift. I didnt put a rear bumper lift on my 2dr i just left it down but have heard that they make a bracket for it. Dont know about tire size but my old ram had 33 12.5 15s so something like that is what id use

---------- Post added at 12:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:38 AM ----------

Also with the performance accesory kit the steering extension has to be welded in

---------- Post added at 12:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:39 AM ----------

Also there shpuld be no need to extend the filler hose. Somethign was wronf woth easttx hose as stated in the instructions the extension is needed only in the suburban... Your hose must have been cut before

---------- Post added at 12:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 AM ----------

If yall need lics let me know and i can snap some i have my rear bumper off right now aswell so can show more pics of lretty much everything. Note for the front if you upgrade to cattle guard yoy cant hse the lift brackets you gotta keep it down

---------- Post added at 12:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:44 AM ----------

If you have floor 4x4 you also have to loosen the bolt that is in the shifter for the floor 4x4. My shifter didnt ry mover down but it still needed to get loosened then tightened after
 
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Symba_The_Lyon

Symba_The_Lyon

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Thank You Guys!! With the 305/75/16 how bad would it rub at full turn? when im trail riding i do a lot of sharp turns, lol What aboght a shift linkage its that still needed? Mine has a push button 4x4, and gzes that picture would be very helpful! And EastTXYukon what aboght the fuel filter will you half to extend it any? iv read on some outer forums that they had to.
 

EastTXYukon

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When installing the lift, I unscrewed the 3 brass screws that hold the fuel filler to the body (screws are located behind the gas door). I wanted to make sure nothing binded up when I actually started jacking the body up. One lifted, I went to replace the brass screws, but could not get the fuel filler hose to reach without putting the extension in (which comes in the lift kit).

As for the tires, no they should not rub, but it depends on your wheels more than anything else. Will you be running stock or aftermarket? Look at my sig for my setup. My wheels have -6 offset, and I have never rubbed at full lock
 
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Symba_The_Lyon

Symba_The_Lyon

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Yeah im going to run the stock wheels that on my picture xD how dos the 295 /75 16 treat you with the body lift? You wouldn't have a resent picture your you're hoe my chance would you?
 

Gzes

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To check for the shift linkage open the hood and look like next to the booster and see if you have a rod style shift linkage. If so its easy to take out and cut and weld. Later on ill get some pics for ya
 

19Yukon97

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Many report that the steering extension gives play to the wheel and i didnt use it and have no problems, next the filler hose i didnt have to mess with it and its perfectly fine,
If the bull bar is on the bumper then its fine. I know what i was doing when doing my lift. I didnt put a rear bumper lift on my 2dr i just left it down but have heard that they make a bracket for it. Dont know about tire size but my old ram had 33 12.5 15s so something like that is what id use

You cant judge the tire size with 'your old ram' There different setups. They arent the same. Seriously i questioned how stable your vehicle is with all this information you spout out all the time... Im not meaning to ragg on you or anything, but i read some of your posts and just think to myself... "seriously? what are you thinking?"
 

EastTXYukon

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I should also let you know I did crank the torsion bars up just enough to level the front end. That does help to keep everything from rubbing

285/75/16 are good, but I like the 295/75/16 because its a little taller and wider than the 285.

Here are a few pics of my truck
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359493356.805716.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359493400.064790.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1359493450.408680.jpg
 

Gzes

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Many report that the steering extension gives play to the wheel and i didnt use it and have no problems, next the filler hose i didnt have to mess with it and its perfectly fine,
If the bull bar is on the bumper then its fine. I know what i was doing when doing my lift. I didnt put a rear bumper lift on my 2dr i just left it down but have heard that they make a bracket for it. Dont know about tire size but my old ram had 33 12.5 15s so something like that is what id use

You cant judge the tire size with 'your old ram' There different setups. They arent the same. Seriously i questioned how stable your vehicle is with all this information you spout out all the time... Im not meaning to ragg on you or anything, but i read some of your posts and just think to myself... "seriously? what are you thinking?"


You didnt read the dont know about tire size part. Mind reading it first... And no i dont know about tire size but anyways i had a tire by itself and had it in the space in the front and it looked like it would work fairly good. Now contribute something useful on this thread please

---------- Post added at 05:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:44 PM ----------

This is how the front bumper brackets go and why a cattle guard wont work for them
IMAG0472_zpsd5bd109c.jpg

IMAG0611_zps61bf57fb.jpg

IMAG0610_zps1a4f9cc5.jpg

And this is the shift linkage where my finger is like right next to steering column
IMAG0608_zps12174b04.jpg

IMAG0607_zpsc9717d02.jpg

And rear bumper mount
IMAG0609_zps2f553b60.jpg


---------- Post added at 05:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:52 PM ----------

Sorry about the linkage pics thats the best my htc could take

---------- Post added at 05:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:54 PM ----------

Tahoes 4dr and 2dr have the same rear bumper mounts and yes i have picture proof for the haters
picture.jpg
 

EastTXYukon

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Doing a body lift without all the extensions, and without raising the bumpers and without at least attempting to hide some of the frame looks like shit. Thats what gives body lifts a bad reputation, people who do it half ass and dont pay attention to details and make it unsafe.

Get gap guards. Or make some. Paint your frame and get some nerf bars. Adjust the height of the nerf bars so they dont hang too low. Or better yet, get some n-fabs. Raise your front and rear bumper, and either re-install your tow hooks with spacers or flipped, and get a valance to hide the front frame horns. Paint your trailer hitch or remove it because it will hang low, and theres not much you can do about it.

The 2 door and 4 door rear bumper mounts are different. The rear body mount on the 2 doors interfere with any bracket made for a 4 door tahoe. Zone Off Road sells rear bumper relocator brackets, but on their site it clearly states that they will only work on 4 door tahoes. You have to cut the brackets and modify them for them to work on a 2 door.

I usually dont post like this, but I dont want the OP to have a bunch of wrong information. I researched all these things before I decided to do a body lift. If you pay attention to the details it can look good. Don't just slap the kit on there and call it good, cause it won't look that way.
 

Gzes

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I reaserched it aswell very good and found all my information. Go to the junkyard and look at a 2dr and 4dr and tell me the difference or better yet pictures. I ready showed you pictures of 2dr and 4d because i personly took them. Body lifts only get bad rap because people say they arent safe. And yes paint the frame mines partially painted but humidity over here makes it suck for painting.... And you cant align a cattle guard on a body lift due to it wont fit the bracket and if it did its too heavy for the bracket. Make gap guards because the ones they sell are ripoff prices and showinf frames not really a bad thing its just personal preference
 
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Symba_The_Lyon

Symba_The_Lyon

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Thank You You Guys Again !!! This has been very helpful, EastTXYukon just to be clear before i go spend a grand on tiers in that picture are 295/75/16 xD,Gzes those rear bumper bracket how much did you cut before re welding it? How do you go aboght cranking the torsion bars and where are they located?
 
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Gzes

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I didnt mess with the rear bumper brackets because i wanted to put a ranch hand on the back but the one i got doesnt fit because the mount is different it was supposed to be for chevy but looks like a dodge so i got screwed and thats why im running no bumper at the moment. I might make a bumper and make it look clean and keep my hitch since i tow. If you have a hitch dont move it like east says because you will loose the structural stregnth because it was designed by professionals for a reason and i wouldnt want a trailer falling off on the highway

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:12 PM ----------

Torsion crank is fairly easy but you have to lift the front so you dont strees the bolt. You have to mark it so you adjust correctly and if i remember correctly its just infront of door handles on the frame. Its a bolt head you adjust. I would use a grease pencil or welding chalk to mark
 
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Symba_The_Lyon

Symba_The_Lyon

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Gzes It wont let me replay D: But yeah man do you have to lift the body of the farme to crank the bars? Is the one on each side? Is it you lossen it up and adjust it how far u what it? Can you do it when the body lift is not installed? EastTXYukon If you would take a picture of you''re torsion bars so i know have far to rase them that would be Allsome!!!
 

Gzes

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No the bars can crank whenever just lift the front with a jack to relieve stress from the bolts
 

the big blue bus

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i left the steering extension out because of the play it gave. zone makes rear bumper brackets. have t cut frame off. id keep the frame horn incase you take bl off like i did so you can have a bumper back on
 

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