24mm Ball Joint Separator?

[tahoe_incompleto]

Hi All,

I am attempting to swap out the lower control arms and I can't seem to find a ball joint separator with a fork wide enough to fit around the 23.24 mm lower ball joint shaft. The one I have is 19mm, and the largest I can find is 22mm. (With the exception of possibly some very expensive Euro kits)

Does anyone have a source on one that fits?

I would much prefer to use this over beating the hell out of the knuckle, or using a pitch fork. (Tried both already.) The separators have always made removing the ball joints a snap. (Worked like a charm on top)

Thanks!
-J

 

[tahoe_incompleto]

I lied, I did NOT try a pitch fork yet. I did try a pickle fork, though.

 

[blueinkd]

I lied, I did NOT try a pitch fork yet. I did try a pickle fork, though.

*********** oil and a decent hammer to shock the control arm is your friend. A few taps after soaking during disassembly and the lower ball joint separated from the lower arm with no hassle

 

[blueinkd]

Lol!! The word penetra...ting is getting sensored

 

[swathdiver]

Hi All,

I am attempting to swap out the lower control arms and I can't seem to find a ball joint separator with a fork wide enough to fit around the 23.24 mm lower ball joint shaft. The one I have is 19mm, and the largest I can find is 22mm. (With the exception of possibly some very expensive Euro kits)

Does anyone have a source on one that fits?

I would much prefer to use this over beating the hell out of the knuckle, or using a pitch fork. (Tried both already.) The separators have always made removing the ball joints a snap. (Worked like a charm on top)

View attachment 352030


Thanks!
-J

We ruined some HF Pickle Forks earlier this year trying to get the lower ball joints to separate from the knuckle. Bought that tool up there from HF and ground it all over to get it to fit. In the end, we cut off the tip of the balljoint and then slipped this modified separator over it and BOOM, it came apart. Oil and heat did not work for us.

Next time, I'm going to buy the right tool and not waste time. J-43631

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Reading this post makes me glad that I replaced the control arms on my truck with new control arms with the new ball joints already attached to them.

 

[swathdiver]

Reading this post makes me glad that I replaced the control arms on my truck with new control arms with the new ball joints already attached to them.

Me too but my ball joints did not want to leave the knuckles kindly, it required much force! LOL

 

[blueinkd]

Me too but my ball joints did not want to leave the knuckles kindly, it required much force! LOL

The original ball joints have some "crimps" on the edges you have to work back in to allow the ball joint press to do its job. Honestly they were cake. Of course I hit them with penetrating fluid, had 24" 1/2 breaker bar on the socket. It was harder for me to figure out the correct orientation and combination of adapters to press them out/in.

 

[tahoe_incompleto]

I found one that should do the trick. 32mm fork opening. Build quality is very nice on it, too. I much prefer leverage and the right tools over swinging sledge hammers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MCCSGC9

Reading this post makes me glad that I replaced the control arms on my truck with new control arms with the new ball joints already attached to them.

I am replacing the entire lower control arm with a new ball joint attached. You have to remove the lower ball joint shaft from the steering knuckle to install the new lower arm, though.

 

[swathdiver]

I found one that should do the trick. 32mm fork opening. Build quality is very nice on it, too. I much prefer leverage and the right tools over swinging sledge hammers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MCCSGC9

View attachment 352187



I am replacing the entire lower control arm with a new ball joint attached. You have to remove the lower ball joint shaft from the steering knuckle to install the new lower arm, though.

Let us know how it works out and take some pics if you can for the fellas that come along after us.

 

[mattbta]

I beat the **** out of my knuckle, because every video acted like it was so simple. Beat em stupid and then couldn't get the brake line bolt to thread back in. Gah.

Finally used a pickle fork with about 6' of pipe slipped over and they popped loose.

Interested if this tool works, because there's gotta be a better way.

 

[tahoe_incompleto]

Let us know how it works out and take some pics if you can for the fellas that come along after us.

I will for sure. I had to take a trip out of town so unfortunately the tool will collect dust for at least a few weeks before I get to try it. :/

I beat the **** out of my knuckle, because every video acted like it was so simple. Beat em stupid and then couldn't get the brake line bolt to thread back in. Gah.

Finally used a pickle fork with about 6' of pipe slipped over and they popped loose.

Interested if this tool works, because there's gotta be a better way.

Unless I run into some kind of unforseen fitment issue I have no doubt it will work. The smaller version worked great on the uppers, and on several other cars for me. I'll update here once I get a chance to get back under it and try it out.

 

[blueinkd]

Question? Are you ball joints rusted in?? I literally just did this job last month or so on a 255k mile rig with oem ball joints. Before I started the disassembly I hit the lower ball joints from the top with pe..netratin oil and let it soaked while I worked. Another trick is to not completely remove the top arm to allow the assembly to still move together. This helped me keep the ball joint fairly straight inside the lower control arm as to not get jamed.. a few knocks with my 5# dead blow hammer and it popped loose. I just don't understand why yours won't pop loose easily

 

[mhaywoodcz]

I just did mine last night, soaked in PB Blaster, loosened both lower and upper ball joint nuts. Then used a pickle fork (with a jack under the nut of the lower ball joint) raised the spindle to level vs letting it hang. Drove the fork in with a 5# hammer. Worked way better than letting it hang (no jack). Seemed to allow full use of the fork, no need to booger up the spindle with repeat blows. Hope this helps

 

[gooffeyguy]

I have a US General one that looks just like that picture in the first post. I don't think I've ever used it, but it specs 3/4" (20mm).

When I did mine on the 2011 a few years ago, I used this. Don't know where I got it from though. It measures just over an inch opening, actually 29mm

 

[tahoe_incompleto]

Let us know how it works out and take some pics if you can for the fellas that come along after us.

Worked like a charm!

 

[JamesLond]

I bought the same tool, but with no branding. The bolt ends up slipping off the end and butchering up the surface. I'm gonna try and get a replacement and see how that one does

 

[tahoe_incompleto]

I bought the same tool, but with no branding. The bolt ends up slipping off the end and butchering up the surface. I'm gonna try and get a replacement and see how that one dView attachment 368179

What I have found to work well with this type of tool is to put a good amount of pressure on it and let it sit a bit. I have had several instances where after a bit of time left in place, it pops on it's own. A little heat and some percussion on the knuckle can work well to help it if needed, but don't go overboard on any of it.

 

[jared999]

I bought the same tool, but with no branding. The bolt ends up slipping off the end and butchering up the surface. I'm gonna try and get a replacement and see how that one doesView attachment 368179

This is the exact problem I ran into with my separator, although I was using a different one than you. Every time I tighten that bolt, it just slid further and further off.

I ordered the same one that tahoe_incomplete ordered. Hoping I have positive results.

 

[swathdiver]

Scored the J-43631 a few months back so we're ready for the next job.