2012 Denali front driveshaft removal

[dkad260]

I'm going to replace my U-joints on the rear driveshaft, so I figured I would do the front also.

I can see how to remove the front of the shaft, but the rear of the shaft has a small CV-style boot.

Does the shaft slide out of the transfer case with the boot intact, or do I need to release the boot?

 

[swathdiver]

Yep, remove the clamps. If the boot is worn, you can get a new kit from GM (12471527). Pretty sure that will work for yours but double check with your VIN.

Will be doing the same thing soon, going to use the same solid ujoints at are not greasable.

Front 1344 - 23104840 or Spicer 5-795X
Rear 1355 - 89055911 or Spicer 5-1350X

 

[dkad260]

Thank you.

The boot is in good shape, can these clamps be released and re-used?

Any preferred clamping pliers? Would the Lisle 30800 work?

 

[Foggy]

Thank you.

The boot is in good shape, can these clamps be released and re-used?

Any preferred clamping pliers? Would the Lisle 30800 work?

YUP, those are the ones !!

 

[89Suburban]

Yep, remove the clamps. If the boot is worn, you can get a new kit from GM (12471527). Pretty sure that will work for yours but double check with your VIN.

Will be doing the same thing soon, going to use the same solid ujoints at are not greasable.

Front 1344 - 23104840 or Spicer 5-795X
Rear 1355 - 89055911 or Spicer 5-1350X

Did you ever do this? Can I just slide the shaft out and be able to run down the road without it?

 

[dkad260]

Did you ever do this? Can I just slide the shaft out and be able to run down the road without it?

I did and I believe the update was tied into another thread on driveline issues so I apoligize for not updating this.

Short version is I replaced the rear U-joints and when I did I must have bent an ear. When I took it to get balanced, I had the shop change the front U joints.

They boogered both shafts so much I had new ones made....all is good now.

The boot is stiff, but release the clamp and I used a body panel clip removal tool since the "fingers" are more rounded to prevent tearing. Once you get the front of the shaft out, then just easily pry the boot and it will slide off.

If you have AWD, as in full-time, no 2HI/4HI selector switch, you CANNOT drive with the front shaft removed. You will tear up the transfer case.

If you have 2HI/4HI/N/4LO switch then you can.

Just mark the front where it came out so it goes back in the same spot, to help eliminate any possible vibrations when re-installing. That practice is more reserved when replacing the U joint in the slip yoke but always good to play it safe.

 

[89Suburban]

I did and I believe the update was tied into another thread on driveline issues so I apoligize for not updating this.

Short version is I replaced the rear U-joints and when I did I must have bent an ear. When I took it to get balanced, I had the shop change the front U joints.

They boogered both shafts so much I had new ones made....all is good now.

The boot is stiff, but release the clamp and I used a body panel clip removal tool since the "fingers" are more rounded to prevent tearing. Once you get the front of the shaft out, then just easily pry the boot and it will slide off.

If you have AWD, as in full-time, no 2HI/4HI selector switch, you CANNOT drive with the front shaft removed. You will tear up the transfer case.

If you have 2HI/4HI/N/4LO switch then you can.

Just mark the front where it came out so it goes back in the same spot, to help eliminate any possible vibrations when re-installing. That practice is more reserved when replacing the U joint in the slip yoke but always good to play it safe.

Yes I am 4/2WD not AWD. So I can slide the shaft out and remove the boot and run it just fine without the T-Case puking it's guts out correct?

 

[dkad260]

@89Suburban The boot of the front shaft sits in a groove near the transfer case housing, so while prying on it, the boot needs to come out of the groove and be pushed forward, it will keep trying to re-seat itself so be patient with it.

 

[dkad260]

Yes I am 4/2WD not AWD. So I can slide the shaft out and remove the boot and run it just fine without the T-Case puking it's guts out correct?

We replied at the same time.

IME, with 2-speed GM transfer cases, you can drive in 2HI (2WD) with the front shaft removed. I've done this a few times.

List your vehicle so others can confirm this.

 

[randeez]

Yes I am 4/2WD not AWD. So I can slide the shaft out and remove the boot and run it just fine without the T-Case puking it's guts out correct?

front driveshaft output on the tcase is a dry socket, can pull and drive in 2wd hi no problem

i guess technically you can put it in 4wd also, cause they are mechanically interlocked

awd in 07-14 works like a differential, path of least resistance is where power goes, since theres none on the front output without ds it just spins and truck doesnt move.