2011 Tahoe lt 5.3 waterpump replacement - SOLVED

[Chvytahoe11]

Been toping off coolant every 3 days for a week now. Couldnt pinpoint the exact location but it maybe the pump is on its way out. Im planning on getting it replaced some time this weekend, since its our only vehicle and need to drive it tomorrow for work. I plan on replacing the pump, thermostat and belts. Are there any special tools I need for this? How long should I expect this to take? Do I need to use sealant before i place the gaskets? How much coolant should I buy to refill once Job is completed? And are the torque specs 22lbs for the pump and 11 for the thermostat housing?? ( those are the Numbers that kept coming up on youtube). Thanks for any help!!!

 

[Charlie207]

It's pretty straighforward. Hardest part is making a mess, and maybe getting the two heater hoses off the right left of the water pump... they were sticky with age. You can do it in well under an hour, including bleeding the air out of the coolant system.

I didn't use any RTV or gasket sealer on the two gaskets that came with my waterpump.

The main serpentine belt is easy to get off, but the A/C belt is annoying. I got it off/on by hand when I swapped motors, but all the accessories were missing from the front of the engine at the time, and no plugs were installed, so the engine spun over easily. There is a small tool to help get the A/C belt to stretch over the harmonic balancer, but I'm going to try it by hand again next time.

 

[Chvytahoe11]

It's pretty straighforward. Hardest part is making a mess, and maybe getting the two heater hoses off the right left of the water pump... they were sticky with age. You can do it in well under an hour, including bleeding the air out of the coolant system.

I didn't use any RTV or gasket sealer on the two gaskets that came with my waterpump.

The main serpentine belt is easy to get off, but the A/C belt is annoying. I got it off/on by hand when I swapped motors, but all the accessories were missing from the front of the engine at the time, and no plugs were installed, so the engine spun over easily. There is a small tool to help get the A/C belt to stretch over the harmonic balancer, but I'm going to try it by hand again next time.

Thanks for the reply. Do you happened to know what the tool is called?? For the ac belt Removal? Aldo, are the torque specs i mentioned correct?

 

[Charlie207]

Here is a torque chart for LS engines, I'm pretty sure you're correct on the torque values for the water pump: https://www.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/Indmar_6.0LQ9RepairSpecs.pdf (page 6-3)

The tool to do the A/C belt is something like this, but I've never used one before: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-59560-...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[mikez71]

under an hour! dang I was gonna say 2 hours..

When I purchased a GM belt, it came with this tool..

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I know I overtorqued my waterpump.
NOT saying you should, but that waterpump seemed heavy to be hanging off those long bolts at a measly 22lbs..
I didn't trust it so I gave it some extra

 

[strutaeng]

What about the tool for removing the fan from the water pump? I use a 12" crescent wrench and wack it with a engineer's small sledge hammer or large deadblow before removing the belt, but I've been using no-seize on those threads. Those can be stubborn and may require a special tool if some sort. I think you can rent them at the local parts stores.

I used to put the thermostat/water pump on the pump gaskets because I thought the threads in the block went through something, but later found out the holes are blind, so there's no need for sealant and now I don't use anything.

Get yourself a small gasket scraper to clean the block mating surfaces.

I think I've used 2 gallons of the concentrated coolant. Maybe a little more. I can't remember exactly.

If everything goes well, you can probably knock it out in 2 hours, taking your time. It's really not that bad of a job TBH.

Try to avoid splashing coolant into the belts because that can cause them to start squealing...

 

[Doubeleive]

What about the tool for removing the fan from the water pump? I use a 12" crescent wrench and wack it with a engineer's small sledge hammer or large deadblow before removing the belt, but I've been using no-seize on those threads. Those can be stubborn and may require a special tool if some sort. I think you can rent them at the local parts stores.

I used to put the thermostat/water pump on the pump gaskets because I thought the threads in the block went through something, but later found out the holes are blind, so there's no need for sealant and now I don't use anything.

Get yourself a small gasket scraper to clean the block mating surfaces.

I think I've used 2 gallons of the concentrated coolant. Maybe a little more. I can't remember exactly.

If everything goes well, you can probably knock it out in 2 hours, taking your time. It's really not that bad of a job TBH.

Try to avoid splashing coolant into the belts because that can cause them to start squealing...

The 2011 is electric fans, easy job for the water pump

 

[strutaeng]

The 2011 is electric fans, easy job for the water pump

Doh!

Thanks for clarifying

 

[Charlie207]

The 2011 is electric fans, easy job for the water pump

I was gonna say that. Simple job.

 

[Geotrash]

Been toping off coolant every 3 days for a week now. Couldnt pinpoint the exact location but it maybe the pump is on its way out. Im planning on getting it replaced some time this weekend, since it’s our only vehicle and need to drive it tomorrow for work. I plan on replacing the pump, thermostat and belts. Are there any special tools I need for this? How long should I expect this to take? Do I need to use sealant before i place the gaskets? How much coolant should I buy to refill once Job is completed? And are the torque specs 22lbs for the pump and 11 for the thermostat housing?? ( those are the Numbers that kept coming up on youtube). Thanks for any help!!!

Are you sure it’s the pump? In my experience the pumps last longer than the plastic parts in the system. Chances are your leak is either at the firewall where the plastic coolant tees are for the heater core, or one of the plastic end tanks on the radiator if it’s original.

 

[Coveman]

^^ really good point. If you dont have a cooling system pressure tester you can borrow one from a parts store. Pump it up and look and listen. Also I have a fluid extractor that I wouldnt want to live without, 101 uses and a much cleaner garage floor!

 

[Chvytahoe11]

Are you sure it’s the pump? In my experience the pumps last longer than the plastic parts in the system. Chances are your leak is either at the firewall where the plastic coolant tees are for the heater core, or one of the plastic end tanks on the radiator if it’s original.

It was the pump… coolant must have bebe dripping on to the belt which then caused it to get on the alternator. Replaced the pump and all is well …

 

[Geotrash]

It was the pump… coolant must have bebe dripping on to the belt which then caused it to get on the alternator. Replaced the pump and all is well …

Good deal. Thanks for following up!