2008 Tahoe no crank/starts and dies (solved)

[Doubeleive]

I'm thinking fuel pump too. Get a modern code reader like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Get the Torque Pro App if you have an Android phone and set it up to read codes and fuel pressure.

he's reporting a no crank issue as well, so probably not fuel related
most likely going to be a ground or "maybe" even ignition related
my first thought was "security" but that will either do one or the other, not both as far as I know on the gmt900's
op: when you get back to it, start at the battery first, take the cables off and look for any hidden corrosion, even if they look clean wire brush them and re-connect.
that's a starting point.

 

[Woody258]

Will do thanks. Yeah, whatever it is, seems to be effecting a few things. When it does crank, it turns over normally then fires for a few seconds, sputters and dies. When it doesn’t crank, it’s like the starter is disconnected. About half the time I turned the key, nothing. I’ll be home in a few hours and troubleshoot. Luckily its parked right in the sun

 

[opfor2]

Will do thanks. Yeah, whatever it is, seems to be effecting a few things. When it does crank, it turns over normally then fires for a few seconds, sputters and dies. When it doesn’t crank, it’s like the starter is disconnected. About half the time I turned the key, nothing. I’ll be home in a few hours and troubleshoot. Luckily its parked right in the sun

Did you test the battery?

 

[Woody258]

Did you test the battery?

No I haven’t. I couldn’t get started yesterday so it’ll be this afternoon.

 

[Woody258]

Update, checked codes with torque app. Here's what I have

P069E – Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination​

P2534 – Ignition switch, ON/start position – circuit low​

P1682 Chevrolet

Engine control module (ECM) -ignition power supply variation

So I cleaned up the battery connections and ground point on the pass head and tried again. Same thing with crank sometimes and run a few seconds and mostly no crank at all. Then it started once and ran fine. I shut it off after 10 minutes and back to no crank.

Fuel pressure read 44psi

Could it be the ignition switch? I read there were issues with some.

 

[Woody258]

Well I replaced the ignition switch since it was cheap and quick but it didn't help. Tomorrow I'll check all the fuses and reseat them

I just remembered that a week or so ago, the remote start stopped working. It would flash the park lights then nothing. At the time it was still starting normally with the key.

 

[swathdiver]

Did you clear the codes and if so, which ones came back?

Are you certain that your cables coming off the battery are corrosion free inside and out?

We have seen a few cases where the battery was the problem. Someone tightened the bolt too hard or pushed on the cables somehow which cause the connection inside the battery to become intermittent.

After the car has been sitting overnight, what is the voltage of the battery before you put the key in and start the engine? Best checked with a voltmeter. If you don't have one, set up your Torque Pro App to read volts. Well, I'm guess that it can!

 

[Doubeleive]

Update, checked codes with torque app. Here's what I have

P069E – Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination​

P2534 – Ignition switch, ON/start position – circuit low​

P1682 Chevrolet

Engine control module (ECM) -ignition power supply variation

View attachment 404868

So I cleaned up the battery connections and ground point on the pass head and tried again. Same thing with crank sometimes and run a few seconds and mostly no crank at all. Then it started once and ran fine. I shut it off after 10 minutes and back to no crank.

Fuel pressure read 44psi

Could it be the ignition switch? I read there were issues with some.

mmmmm maybe fuse box, seems logical. these trucks are pretty finicky about voltage

 

[Woody258]

Ok, batt voltage after sitting was 12.45. I hooked up jumper cables from another car but no change. Pulled underhood fuses/relays and didn't find any corrosion. Switched relays for run/crank and starter and fuel pump w/o change. I pulled the fuse box up but couldn't raise it enough to unplug anything so I reinstalled it.

Heading back out to find more grounds.

Cleaned ground on frame under drivers seat area. Cleaned connections at fusible link.

Read something about the passlock security causing no crank or start and die issues. My security light is on in key on position but not blinking.

 

[Woody258]

I was able to separate the main fuse box and clean the connections, also cleaned the main connectors on the ecm? In front of the fuse box.

Added another heavy ground wire from the engine to the firewall. Still nothing. Passlock security faulty? Any suggestions?

Thank you for your help. Thinking I may need to find z mobile mechanic.

Turn key on and dash.ights come on, cel and security light stay on

Turn key to start and you can hear some relay type noise but engine won't turn over