2007 Yukon drivetrain replace/upgrade?

[Yukonblonde]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

 

[swathdiver]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

Option 1 would be great, you can do the work as time permits. Option 3 is also good but will be a little more technical and may require some programming and or custom tuning.

 

[Geotrash]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

I love that story! The fuel leak is just the fuel pump. Common issue where it rusts out from salty water pooling on top of the fuel tank where the pump flange sits. A brand new OEM pump is around $250 shipped from Rock Auto. I had one installed in my '07 for about $350. I could have done the work myself but didn't have time at that point and it's a PITA because you have to drop the fuel tank.

As for the driveline leaks, 230K is nothing on these. If it were my truck, I would snag a low mileage rear axle from a junkyard, change the fluid and swap out my old one. Same for the transfer case.

There is nothing special about the Denali driveline except the transfer case and front diff being AWD units instead of selectable 4WD.

 

[Yukonblonde]

I love that story! The fuel leak is just the fuel pump. Common issue where it rusts out from salty water pooling on top of the fuel tank where the pump flange sits. A brand new OEM pump is around $250 shipped from Rock Auto. I had one installed in my '07 for about $350. I could have done the work myself but didn't have time at that point and it's a PITA because you have to drop the fuel tank.

As for the driveline leaks, 230K is nothing on these. If it were my truck, I would snag a low mileage rear axle from a junkyard, change the fluid and swap out my old one. Same for the transfer case.

There is nothing special about the Denali driveline except the transfer case and front diff being AWD units instead of selectable 4WD.

Thank you - that's all very valuable information. Much appreciated.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

The Denali rear is a 14 bolt upgrade that’s probably the same price as your 12 bolt… the Denali could have a 6.2, and the 6l80 if anything at least upgrade to the 4l80 while you’re under there…

 

[Foggy]

I'd replace / service both your differentials, the transmission and transfer case
and then see how they react.. They may just be due/overdue for service..

Fuel pump module is a no brainer..Buy the GM or Delphi part.. With your
age and mileage , you've got your money out of that pump... Many fail a lot
sooner

 

[Doubeleive]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

how fast ya gotta go to get seized up yonder?

 

[wjburken]

how fast ya gotta go to get seized up yonder?

Asking for a friend or are you planning a trip up north?

 

[Yukonblonde]

how fast ya gotta go to get seized up yonder?

Haha. I was going 165kmph (100+ mph). 40km(25mph) over the limit gets you $400 ticket, $400tow and impound for a week. Also insurance dings you for the points. Then the Superintendant of motor vehicles has to okay you keeping your license but not before charging you a safety premium. I haven't slowed down any but I definitely am more careful where/when I go fast.

 

[Rocket Man]

Good thing 25mph over the limit down here doesn’t get your rig impounded or half of us would be without a ride half the time.

 

[Doubeleive]

Asking for a friend or are you planning a trip up north?

I was just wondering I have read the popo are kind of excessive up there, like they hide in the bushes and take speed photos with SLR camera's and idiocracy like that

 

[Doubeleive]

Good thing 25mph over the limit down here doesn’t get your rig impounded or half of us would be without a ride half the time.

for sure.....

 

[Doubeleive]

I've had mine impounded a few times locally for driving without a license, it's a $250 fee and the tow fee and a licensed driver can get it back the next day.
The next town up is not so lenient they hold all such impounds for 30 days so it turns out to be around $1200.00 the tow yards make out like bandits.
I had lost my license for a couple years it was only 1 year for too many points on my record but I kept driving and getting caught and they would just add the points and so it almost became a loosing battle but I managed to talk my way out of a couple even without a license and got it reinstated.
I had to come up with a lie to the DMV once during that time because I got ticketed for my kid not being seat belted and yet I had no license...lol

 

[BG1988]

Haha. I was going 165kmph (100+ mph). 40km(25mph) over the limit gets you $400 ticket, $400tow and impound for a week. Also insurance dings you for the points. Then the Superintendant of motor vehicles has to okay you keeping your license but not before charging you a safety premium. I haven't slowed down any but I definitely am more careful where/when I go fast.

100mph?

topped out 130mph on I-10 ZOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM that was in a dodge caravan btw(rental) never my own..

i still got 25mpg not too bad

 

[Rocket Man]

I've had mine impounded a few times locally for driving without a license, it's a $250 fee and the tow fee and a licensed driver can get it back the next day.
The next town up is not so lenient they hold all such impounds for 30 days so it turns out to be around $1200.00 the tow yards make out like bandits.
I had lost my license for a couple years it was only 1 year for too many points on my record but I kept driving and getting caught and they would just add the points and so it almost became a loosing battle but I managed to talk my way out of a couple even without a license and got it reinstated.
I had to come up with a lie to the DMV once during that time because I got ticketed for my kid not being seat belted and yet I had no license...lol

Here they don’t inpound luckily. They zebra stripe the tags instead and suspend ( or cancel ?) the registration so you stand out to any cop that sees your vehicle on the road and they will pull you over and take you to jail. I used to get in a lot of trouble mainly from drinking and being belligerent with the cops and finally lost my license for 5 years for being habitual offender. I still drove for 4 more until they zebra striped my tags. I sold that truck so I wouldn’t drive and the dude that bought it put new plates on it and STILL got pulled over constantly. I guess the truck was infamous with the popo and they’d pull it over on sight. Ahhhh the good old days. Kidding, I don’t miss that.

 

[Yukonblonde]

The Denali rear is a 14 bolt upgrade that’s probably the same price as your 12 bolt… the Denali could have a 6.2, and the 6l80 if anything at least upgrade to the 4l80 while you’re under there…

Thank you for your answer but now I have a few more questions.
1- is the 14 bolt just stronger/more durable or will I notice a performance improvement when driving in snow or one day maybe some semi extreme off reading?
2 - Does it work with the 5.3?

 

[Geotrash]

Thank you for your answer but now I have a few more questions.
1- is the 14 bolt just stronger/more durable or will I notice a performance improvement when driving in snow or one day maybe some semi extreme off reading?
2 - Does it work with the 5.3?

No performance improvement. It’s just stronger and more durable.

Yes, it does.

 

[Yukonblonde]

No performance improvement. It’s just stronger and more durable.

Yes, it does.

Thank you. After doing some research I decided that for now I will drop the gas tank and probably replace the fuel pump module with the help of a mechanic friend. I do like the idea of upgrading when I replace parts so I will starrt looking for 14 bolt

 

[Yukonblonde]

Good thing 25mph over the limit down here doesn’t get your rig impounded or half of us would be without a ride half the time.

They usually give us a break - up to around 30 over they regularly drop it down. But I was going 50 over the limit!