2006 Tahoe/AC charged but Compressor not turning

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OR VietVet

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The "outer pulley" is what the belt rides on and that spins at all times when engine is running. The outer part is the clutch and has no pulley and only spins if is engaged.

@glmoore0001, when you unplug the switch at the accumulator and cross the wires/harness, with a jumper wire, all you are doing is checking to see if clutch will engage when given a signal to do so. You would be bypassing the switch at the accumulator. The switch itself may be bad if the clutch engages and the a/c blows cold. You are not low on refrigerant because of the static pressures you posted. On your a/c and heater control in your dash, do you have a top right button that says "AUTO" on it. That would mean you have an auto temp control but you can operate it all manually, exactly like I do, when you turn on your a/c by pressing the "snowflake/* " button. If a/c works on one and not the other, you have a control head problem or a problem with sensors that give info to the control head. If it works on either one of them, when you jump that harness of the switch at the accumulator, you have a bad switch. There is also a high pressure switch at the back of the a/c compressor. If you do have gauges and the a/c does function when you jump the harness at the accumulator switch, post those pressures.
 
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nonickatall

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So if I check continuity on a bad pressure switch it will be open?
Thanks for the info.
I dont now what is the situation with a bad pressure switch. ;)
But in a working system, the pressure switch is switched to continuity, when there is enough pressure.
 
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glmoore0001

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The "outer pulley" is what the belt rides on and that spins at all times when engine is running. The outer part is the clutch and has no pulley and only spins if is engaged.

@glmoore0001, when you unplug the switch at the accumulator and cross the wires/harness, with a jumper wire, all you are doing is checking to see if clutch will engage when given a signal to do so. You would be bypassing the switch at the accumulator. The switch itself may be bad if the clutch engages and the a/c blows cold. You are not low on refrigerant because of the static pressures you posted. On your a/c and heater control in your dash, do you have a top right button that says "AUTO" on it. That would mean you have an auto temp control but you can operate it all manually, exactly like I do, when you turn on your a/c by pressing the "snowflake/* " button. If a/c works on one and not the other, you have a control head problem or a problem with sensors that give info to the control head. If it works on either one of them, when you jump that harness of the switch at the accumulator, you have a bad switch. There is also a high pressure switch at the back of the a/c compressor. If you do have gauges and the a/c does function when you jump the harness at the accumulator switch, post those pressures.
Thank you for that information!
I have to drive from Rockford, IL. To Winnipeg Manitoba this weekend. I am not sure when I will post again on this subject. Gary
 

Mudsport96

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Are you gettig 12v to the compressor plug? That is where you should start. If yes then the coil could be bad. Or the clutch is too worn and the coil cant pull it in because the air gap is too big.
So first find out if you have power at the plug.
 
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glmoore0001

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Ok. Power to the clutch is possible.
But as explained, the problem began as a properly working ac.
Then turning off the snowflake button did not stop the cooling.
Then when it did turn off, it would not turn back on. Period.
I first though of controls,swapped relays with the horn and no change. Then checked system pressures., all good.
I hopefully will get to it today to try some tests.
 

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