2005 Z71 Tahoe has Blown Head Gasket?

[Kungfubenny]

My 05 Tahoes engine just bit the dust due to me driving too fast into a flooded area. The engine has 185k but do to a possible odometer roll back from the previous owner; possibly 230k.

Im under the impression that a good amount of water was sucked in through the intake possibly cracking the heads in the process. The vehicle shut off immediately upon me submerging the truck in 2.5 feet of water that flooded the road.

Not knowing the damage or being able to access the situation properly I started the engine a few time in attempts to get out (it would barely start and stay on/ move after 4-5 attempts). Eventually i was able to limp the vehicle about 150 yards to my destination and upon arrival my check engine light came on. At the time it was a solid light and after putting my scanner on it it through p102 and p103 codes. Two hours later i started the vehicle again for to now have a flashing check engine light, the same codes as well as a p300. I also noticed thick white smoke coming from the exhaust.
I have not had it professionally diagnosed but suspect a blown head gasket due to coolant i observed on the oil dip stick, oil cap, water present in the airfilter and the white smoke i believe i coolant burning coming from the exhaust.

Soon after i reached out to my insurance and confirmed that they will cover the flood damage and consider it a catastrophic failure do to engine flooding. Depending on the cost of repair they will either cover the cost minus the deductible or cut a check based on the vehicles perceived cash value.

I have a few questions; would it be worth it to have the engines head gasket repair etc or go the remanufactured engine route?

Chevy dealers want upwards of $6700 for the a new engine no labor.

Ive gotten about 4 quotes and have 2 official ones that I've posted below.

The other 2 shops also quoted me on the cost of the remanufactured engine, one being north of 3500 and another around 6500 parts and labor.

Any answers will be useful in making a decision.

*If my insurance decides to total the vehicle i will be keeping the truck putting the check towards what ever repair option makes the most sense*

I just replaced the front differential to match the not from factory 3:73 gears i have in the rear end. Its the family hauler with no rust at all and i would like to keep it in the family as long as possible.

 

[Scottydoggs]

bent rods is what happens when you drive into water, when you try to re start it the cylinders with water in them, well wont compress and locks the piston from coming up, but that bends the rods. or kills the connecting rod bearings.

the smoke just might be all the water in the exhaust burning off. water to the cats can take a while to dry out.

only chance you had of saving your engine was to not have restarted it, got it towed, pulled out. pull the spark plugs then crank it to clear the cylinders, change the oil then try starting it.

best rt might just be finding a junk yard 6.0 cause why not right? clean that up, re gasket everything but the heads. a new water pump, tune for the 6.0. or go further cause its a engine out of the truck, cam it.

 

[Kungfubenny]

bent rods is what happens when you drive into water, when you try to re start it the cylinders with water in them, well wont compress and locks the piston from coming up, but that bends the rods. or kills the connecting rod bearings.

the smoke just might be all the water in the exhaust burning off. water to the cats can take a while to dry out.

only chance you had of saving your engine was to not have restarted it, got it towed, pulled out. pull the spark plugs then crank it to clear the cylinders, change the oil then try starting it.

best rt might just be finding a junk yard 6.0 cause why not right? clean that up, re gasket everything but the heads. a new water pump, tune for the 6.0. or go further cause its a engine out of the truck, cam it.

Thank you for responding! I filed a claim to insurance to cover the cost if not some of the cost for rebuild or reman. Junkyard wont be an option unless they total it out but even then I plan to keep the truck for as long as possible so reman may be my best bet.

 

[Kungfubenny]

bent rods is what happens when you drive into water, when you try to re start it the cylinders with water in them, well wont compress and locks the piston from coming up, but that bends the rods. or kills the connecting rod bearings.

the smoke just might be all the water in the exhaust burning off. water to the cats can take a while to dry out.

only chance you had of saving your engine was to not have restarted it, got it towed, pulled out. pull the spark plugs then crank it to clear the cylinders, change the oil then try starting it.

best rt might just be finding a junk yard 6.0 cause why not right? clean that up, re gasket everything but the heads. a new water pump, tune for the 6.0. or go further cause its a engine out of the truck, cam it.

I also noticed coolant in the engine oil when i check the dip stick as well as the oil fill cap.

 

[Scottydoggs]

I also noticed coolant in the engine oil when i check the dip stick as well as the oil fill cap.

yeah if theres water in the oil it ate a bunch of water.

 

[Fless]

You carry comprehensive insurance coverage, or is this some kind of third party auto warranty?

EDIT: you may also want to drain and refill the diff(s) with that much water; the breathers may have taken in some H2O.

 

[Kungfubenny]

You carry comprehensive insurance coverage, or is this some kind of third party auto warranty?

EDIT: you may also want to drain and refill the diff(s) with that much water; the breathers may have taken in some H2O.

Its “premium” comprehensive coverage. And I didn't consider what you said about the diffs ill definitely do that!

 

[Kungfubenny]

yeah if theres water in the oil it ate a bunch of water.

Im sure water is in the engine but foreign liquid in the oil cap was orange like the coolant that was being used.

 

[Scottydoggs]

Im sure water is in the engine but foreign liquid in the oil cap was orange like the coolant that was being used.

if it was sludge looking thats just condensation from it being cold out, straight up coolant, it was pumped through the engine came out the rocker arm and shot up the fill cap.

 

[Fless]

Oil floats on water, so you can drain a little oil from the oil pan to see if water comes out first, and what condition the oil is.

 

[West 1]

If you took water high enough to get into the engine the transmission and power steering pump will also be suspect along with the differentials already mentioned. The truck has 230,000 already, I would be looking at a junk yard replacement drop in. Odds are you won’t drive it another 200,000 miles so a used engine replacement might be your best and most affordable swap. Will you do the swap or a shop?

 

[Kungfubenny]

If you took water high enough to get into the engine the transmission and power steering pump will also be suspect along with the differentials already mentioned. The truck has 230,000 already, I would be looking at a junk yard replacement drop in. Odds are you won’t drive it another 200,000 miles so a used engine replacement might be your best and most affordable swap. Will you do the swap or a shop?

Soon after i reached out to my insurance and confirmed that they will cover the flood damage and consider it a catastrophic failure do to engine flooding. Depending on the cost of repair they will either cover the cost minus the deductible or cut a check based on the vehicles perceived cash value.

I have a few questions; would it be worth it to have the engines head gasket repair etc or go the remanufactured engine route?

Chevy dealers want upwards of $6700 for the a new engine no labor.

Ive gotten about 4 quotes and have 2 official ones that I've posted below.

The other 2 shops also quoted me on the cost of the remanufactured engine, one being north of 3500 and another around 6500 parts and labor.

 

[Fless]

What if it's not the head gasket, but a bent rod?

 

[Doubeleive]

if you like the vehicle and the insurance covers a remanufactured engine that would be my route.
that quote is pretty high, if you shop around you could get out the door for much less
jasper is nice and all but consider local rebuilders at a lower price.
insurance is only going to cover about $3k tops for a engine (probably less), or they may provide one from there own supplier in which case you will only get a 12 month warranty.
which might be what you get a from a local builder also.

 

[West 1]

One more twist, you will have an insurance check for ? Maybe $6000 tops for a 230,000 mile 2005? I sold a 2005 with 140,000 miles in very good shape with brand new brakes and tires, other than the silver paint clear had started peeling on the hood. $6500 was all I could get for it.

Take the insurance check, sell yours as is, might get $2K and buy a younger version to drive. You could swap parts from yours to the new one if you have things you are attached to. Tires/Rims etc.

I am a firm believer in fixing and enjoying vehicles for a long period of time. I also believe there is a time to cut ties and let them go. 230K and damaged might be that time financially. Good Luck, you have many options to choose from.

 

[rockola1971]

First of you are not likely to find a low mile gen 3 engine in the salvage yards. Secondly I would never buy a Jasper engine. A reman longblock with a warranty is the goal here though. Price a reman aat all local shops and auto parts stores. Check ebay for a crate or reman motor. Demand is lower for Gen 3's. If not then get some machine shop quotes for complete overhaul of your engine or a salvage yard core. Its highly unlikely that you blew a head gasket. Very likely you bent rods. You bend a rod and it still manages to rotate you just effectively changed the ignition timing of that cylinder for worse which is why you have flashing check engine light and P codes for detonation. Check cylinder #2 & 3. (P102, P103). You would be a fool not to completely drain and replace ALL fluids on everything.

 

[Kungfubenny]

First of you are not likely to find a low mile gen 3 engine in the salvage yards. Secondly I would never buy a Jasper engine. A reman longblock with a warranty is the goal here though. Price a reman aat all local shops and auto parts stores. Check ebay for a crate or reman motor. Demand is lower for Gen 3's. If not then get some machine shop quotes for complete overhaul of your engine or a salvage yard core. Its highly unlikely that you blew a head gasket. Very likely you bent rods. You bend a rod and it still manages to rotate you just effectively changed the ignition timing of that cylinder for worse which is why you have flashing check engine light and P codes for detonation. Check cylinder #2 & 3. (P102, P103). You would be a fool not to completely drain and replace ALL fluids on everything.

Insurance finally got back to me regarding what they will be willing to do with my Tahoe. They confirmed that will pay for a used engine replacement and labor totaling around $4100. They are offering a 1 year warranty on parts and labor on the used engine with 130k miles. Im considering the offer and waiting to see if the mechanic can source a lower mileage engine.

 

[Kungfubenny]

Insurance finally got back to me regarding what they will be willing to do with my Tahoe. They confirmed that will pay for a used engine replacement and labor totaling around $4100. They are offering a 1 year warranty on parts and labor on the used engine with 130k miles. Im considering the offer and waiting to see if the mechanic can source a lower mileage engine.

One more twist, you will have an insurance check for ? Maybe $6000 tops for a 230,000 mile 2005? I sold a 2005 with 140,000 miles in very good shape with brand new brakes and tires, other than the silver paint clear had started peeling on the hood. $6500 was all I could get for it.

Take the insurance check, sell yours as is, might get $2K and buy a younger version to drive. You could swap parts from yours to the new one if you have things you are attached to. Tires/Rims etc.

I am a firm believer in fixing and enjoying vehicles for a long period of time. I also believe there is a time to cut ties and let them go. 230K and damaged might be that time financially. Good Luck, you have many options to choose from.

I paid 5k for the vehicle in January 2023 and it was stolen November of that same year. Insurance totaled it because it was deemed a biohazard due to a ton of m*th, pipes and paraphernalia. They gave me $9700 and i kept the vehicle with a salvage title. Since then I've fixed and well and added some tasteful mods to the truck for reliability and comfort. Fast forward to this past week and I admittedly made a poor choice by giving it the beans in 4wd into a deeply flooded part of the road on my way to work. Im under the impression that forward rotation of the front wheels kicked up a-lot of water into the fender going right into the airbox. The fact they my insurance is willing to shell out 4k towards the repair is highly convenient. I anticipated them reiterating that the vehicle is salvage and not offering very much for that reason alone. I had comprehensive coverage when it was stolen a few years ago and continue to have it up until this point.

 

[strutaeng]

WTH?! They gave you $9700 then, and now $4100 for this?!

That's crazy considering you bought it for $5k!

What insurance is this? I need to switch to them and find myself big 'ol puddle of water... Lol

Edit: kidding aside, i think you should properly get your engine diagnosed, although at this point, doesn't sound like it matters.

I hope you find a route to get your truck running.

Please keep us updated.

 

[Kungfubenny]

WTH?! They gave you $9700 then, and now $4100 for this?!

That's crazy considering you bought it for $5k!

What insurance is this? I need to switch to them and find myself big 'ol puddle of water... Lol

Edit: kidding aside, i think you should properly get your engine diagnosed, although at this point, doesn't sound like it matters.

I hope you find a route to get your truck running.

Please keep us updated.

Its AAA comprehensive coverage, i originally payed $150 for this “premium” coverage but after it was stolen and retrieved/ pay out they increased my monthly the next time around. I paid $265 all of 2024, then $300 a month all of 2025 and paid off the total in November. Im at the end of this coverage and have until February 11th to either renew or down grade my coverage. This issue couldnt have happened at a better time haha

Considering either downgrading or change insurance because i refuse to pay upwards of $400 just keep this vehicle on the same comprehensive coverage. I will be considerably more careful with it as well as adding some sort kill switch in the near future.