2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I got tired of the frustration. There’s nothing worse than being on the way somewhere and some ricer is messing with ya on the freeway so you change lanes, punch it and instead of boost you get rat-a-tat-rat-a-tat-tat-tat as a wire decides to not work so well and the misfires hit. :gr_guns:
I’m amazed all the burnt wires I’ve had on that #7 I don’t think any have shown signs of misfires that I noticed driving. Maybe mines already so slow even slower isn’t noticeable lol.

I would like matching wires again tho, just for the cool points!
 

Rocket Man

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I’m amazed all the burnt wires I’ve had on that #7 I don’t think any have shown signs of misfires that I noticed driving. Maybe mines already so slow even slower isn’t noticeable lol.

I would like matching wires again tho, just for the cool points!
Man if I get a wire that burns a spot in the insulation I swear it sounds like the engine is coming apart as soon as boost rolls on. If I drive it slow no problem. So I can drive but it’s like having nitrous but being out of nitrous. Im running NGK TR6 plugs though which are a bit cold, don’t know if that matters.
 

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Does the factory radiator have a restriction in it? The truck typically runs cold around 170 with the 160* t stat I’m hoping it doesn’t run colder with a better radiator. 170 is already kinda low as far as efficiency of the burn goes and mpg yada yada bs.

Yes, the OE radiator has the restriction in it. More info here:


Someone on the forum used a part from a TPMS sensor, I think it was, to make the restriction for an aftermarket radiator. @kbuskill maybe?
 
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Dantheman1540

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Yeah you need to getcha sum lol.
Boost? Yes I do need boost, everybody needs boost!
Yes, the OE radiator has the restriction in it. More info here:


Someone on the forum used a part from a TPMS sensor, I think it was, to make the restriction for an aftermarket radiator. @kbuskill maybe?

Huh I may have to do something about that, one thing at a time I guess. Luckily I’ve been checking the crack and it’s not actively leaking after drives. Should be good till the weekend
 

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I remember reading about this over on PT.net last year when I was looking for an aluminum radiator.
One guy did the following “I machined it out of 3/8 aluminum rod. I punch a .188 hole in a slug ~.5" long, pushed it in with a socket on the degas bottle side of the hose and put it back on it”
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I remember reading about this over on PT.net last year when I was looking for an aluminum radiator.
One guy did the following “I machined it out of 3/8 aluminum rod. I punch a .188 hole in a slug ~.5" long, pushed it in with a socket on the degas bottle side of the hose and put it back on it”
Huh I will have to try and dig that up, although I don’t have the ability to machine something like that. I don’t remember having this issue on my RCSB with the mishmoto or my buddies Denali with some other all aluminum rad. I will have to see how drastic the cooling effect is, being that I’m in Florida I doubt it will run below 170 with the 160 T Stat
 

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You may not need to do anything, I remember reading it was hit and miss if there was a restrictor installed or not. I know my mishimoto had a bushing installed so I did not have worry about it.
 

iamdub

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Yes, the OE radiator has the restriction in it. More info here:


Someone on the forum used a part from a TPMS sensor, I think it was, to make the restriction for an aftermarket radiator. @kbuskill maybe?

Huh I will have to try and dig that up, although I don’t have the ability to machine something like that. I don’t remember having this issue on my RCSB with the mishmoto or my buddies Denali with some other all aluminum rad. I will have to see how drastic the cooling effect is, being that I’m in Florida I doubt it will run below 170 with the 160 T Stat

It was @kbuskill. He's also in Florida. IIRC, it was just the threaded tip of a standard tire stem with the Schrader valve core removed. It solved his over-cooling issue.
 

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