2/4 drop issue

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signguy62

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I just did a 2/4 drop on my 2012 Tahoe SSV. I used Belltech PN2509 2in drop spindles and Belltech PN 34324 4in drop coil springs. Problem is, now the truck sit nose high. Looks like it got a mini Carolina squat going on.
The Belltech PN 34324 4in springs dropped the rear like 4 1/2in
I know I could add the included spacer that came with the springs. But then it wouldn't be a 4in drop.
What are some options I can use up front to gain another 1in drop without too many issues?

Thanks!
 

992dr

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Technically it's not a 4 inch drop if it dropped it 4.5" :)
How much will the spacer lift it?
 
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signguy62

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Technically it's not a 4 inch drop if it dropped it 4.5" :)
How much will the spacer lift it?
The rear springs are advertised as 3-4 inch drop springs. 3in with the spacer installed. 4in without the spacer. So I could assume the spacer is 1in.
But I assumed a 3-4in drop spring would give me either 3 or 4in drop and got 4 1/2. So assuming anything when it comes to Belltech would not be advised.
I just want to drop the front an additional inch. Looking for something I can use with the spindles I already have.
Thanks
 

992dr

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Oh ok gotcha. Then you have to consider after a while they will settle some as well.
As for the front, not sure it's recommended but people have bolted the strut under the control arm instead of on top to get an extra inch or so. BUT, if you do this DO NOT use any factory hardware, use either grade 8 or 12-point hardware and washers. And I saw you can use 7/16" hardware instead of factory 10mm.
I am not telling you to do this but others have done this with success.
Otherwise, you'll need adjustable struts to get the desired drop you're looking for.
 

iamdub

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The rear springs are advertised as 3-4 inch drop springs. 3in with the spacer installed. 4in without the spacer. So I could assume the spacer is 1in.
But I assumed a 3-4in drop spring would give me either 3 or 4in drop and got 4 1/2. So assuming anything when it comes to Belltech would not be advised.
I just want to drop the front an additional inch. Looking for something I can use with the spindles I already have.
Thanks

Springs aren't an exact science and rarely ever yield their advertised drop precisely.

You were wanting a 2/4 drop and, apparently, got a 2/4.5 drop. Did you measure anything before and after or are these figures estimates? I'm mainly questioning if the front end got the full 2" drop, or if something's binding or not settled yet.

Lowering the front beyond spindles puts you past that threshold of quick and easy. Your options are to either bolt the strut under the arms (cheapest and quickest, requires 7/16" Grade 9 hardware and yields about 1.5" drop), get coil relocators (adjustable in increments from 1/2" to 2" drop- requires strut disassembly), lowering coils (also requires strut disassembly and won't be exactly as advertised and won't know until you install and let settle), drop struts (adjustable) or coilovers ($$$).

Or, since you wanted a 2/4 drop, make yours a 2/4 drop. Put a jack under the frame somewhere (since you probably don't have a hitch) and raise the rear 1/2". Step back and assess. If it's what you want, cut your spacers down to 1/2" (or whatever you decide) or order some 1/2" rear coil spacers from Amazon or ebay. I didn't see any 1/2" spacers right off, but I didn't look for very long. Looked like 3/4" (https://a.co/d/0ICuoaF) was the minimum but I know I've seen 1/2" spacers before. Maybe you would prefer the rear 3/4" higher instead of 1/2"? You won't know until you jack it up and measure.

If you've changed your mind and now want a 3"/4.5" drop, then prepare to pay and play.
 
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signguy62

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Yeah, I realize springs aren't an exact science. I'm actually happy with the additional 1/2in I gain out back.
Yes, i did take measurements before and after. Front dropped exactly 2in on both sides and rear dropped exactly 4.5in on both sides.
Since I'm happy with the 4.5in out back, I'm just going to do something with the front. Your suggestion about bolting the struts on from the underside is interesting. Seems like a lot of weight for a couple tabs and some 7/16 grade 9 hardware though.
I like the thought of coilovers. But not the $750 -$1050.- price tag....lol
What about adjustable strut assemblies?
Do the make those for this platform? Are they physically adjustable or do they just use different length springs?
Well, I thank you for all your assistance. You're truly a wealth of knowledge. I just need to figure out how far I want to dive into it.
Maybe I'll just throw some spacers under the rear coils for the time being.
Thanks again!
 

iamdub

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Yeah, I realize springs aren't an exact science. I'm actually happy with the additional 1/2in I gain out back.
Yes, i did take measurements before and after. Front dropped exactly 2in on both sides and rear dropped exactly 4.5in on both sides.

Good on you for doing this so you have factual figures to know exactly what you're working with!


Since I'm happy with the 4.5in out back, I'm just going to do something with the front. Your suggestion about bolting the struts on from the underside is interesting. Seems like a lot of weight for a couple tabs and some 7/16 grade 9 hardware though.

This is why it must be done with quality hardware. I've heard of people using Grade 8. Rough Country used to have a 2" drop kit that was Grade 9 hardware and a spacer. With no spacer, the drop will be less than 2". I don't know exactly how much and that's why I said "about 1.5" drop". But, it's a cheap option and you could fine-tune the drop very easily by making your own spacers (high quality washers?). Also, you could adjust your drop left-to-right to even out what is affectionately known as the "Chevy Lean". It does seem sketchy. But, Rough Country is a large company that specializes in aftermarket suspension. I don't think they'd risk their namesake or business livelihood over $20 in hardware. Grade 9 is 20% stronger than Grade 8. Maybe that's why they used it- "to be sure". I've NEVER heard of any failures resulting from this. A couple members here are using or have used it. I think one is running Grade 8. I bought the hardware from Rugh Country before I realized it was just Grade 9 stuff I could've gotten from a specialty store locally or online. I wanted to use regular/non-drop struts but bolt them under the arms to have that aforementioned adjustability. I can't find them at the moment.


I like the thought of coilovers. But not the $750 -$1050.- price tag....lol
What about adjustable strut assemblies?
Do the make those for this platform? Are they physically adjustable or do they just use different length springs?

Belltech and McGaughy have adjustable coilovers for our GMT900 platforms. McGaughy also has the strut coil spacers (AKA "relocators") that turn your current struts into adjustable ones. They're just spring perches that replace the stock ones. They yield a 2" drop, but include spacers to reduce the drop in (I believe) 1/2" increments. The drop struts from both companies do the same, but with rings that alter the location of the perch on the strut. With either of these options, you'll have to remove and disassemble the struts to make any adjustments then reassemble and reinstall to assess. Using the spring compressors gets old FAST.

I'm currently running a set of Belltech #25003 struts set at maximum drop on the passenger side and .5" less (1.5" drop) on the driver side to level out the Chevy lean. They have a new part number- #25004, that replaces the '003. Supposedly, the newer one can drop up to 3". I don't know if there are any other differences (strut valving, travel length, etc.). I have a set of the '004s and will compare when I remove the '003s. I'd install the '004s but I want Bilstein struts and they don't have a lowering option. So, I'll mount them under the control arm and have that same adjustable drop feature.


Well, I thank you for all your assistance. You're truly a wealth of knowledge. I just need to figure out how far I want to dive into it.

Happy to be relevant!


Maybe I'll just throw some spacers under the rear coils for the time being.

Those 3/4" spacers I linked to in my previous reply are for a Jeep TJ. They were the cheapest spacer under 1" I could find on Amazon. I'm pretty sure they'll work cuz Jeep TJ coils fit our Tahoes. That's how I got my 4.5" rear drop. A Jeep fabricator/crawler buddy had 'em in his scrap pile. I nabbed 'em cuz they looked awfully like aftermarket drop springs for these SUVs. They've been serving me well for almost 4 years and 30K miles now. Oh, and I have Bilstein shocks in the rear from a Jeep XJ.
:yaoface2:

Anyway, just use those 1" spacers you already have for now while you research. IMO, buying another set to save 1/4" of lift isn't worth it. Or, trim 1/4" off of 'em.
 
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signguy62

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Springs aren't an exact science and rarely ever yield their advertised drop precisely.

You were wanting a 2/4 drop and, apparently, got a 2/4.5 drop. Did you measure anything before and after or are these figures estimates? I'm mainly questioning if the front end got the full 2" drop, or if something's binding or not settled yet.

Lowering the front beyond spindles puts you past that threshold of quick and easy. Your options are to either bolt the strut under the arms (cheapest and quickest, requires 7/16" Grade 9 hardware and yields about 1.5" drop), get coil relocators (adjustable in increments from 1/2" to 2" drop- requires strut disassembly), lowering coils (also requires strut disassembly and won't be exactly as advertised and won't know until you install and let settle), drop struts (adjustable) or coilovers ($$$).

Or, since you wanted a 2/4 drop, make yours a 2/4 drop. Put a jack under the frame somewhere (since you probably don't have a hitch) and raise the rear 1/2". Step back and assess. If it's what you want, cut your spacers down to 1/2" (or whatever you decide) or order some 1/2" rear coil spacers from Amazon or ebay. I didn't see any 1/2" spacers right off, but I didn't look for very long. Looked like 3/4" (https://a.co/d/0ICuoaF) was the minimum but I know I've seen 1/2" spacers before. Maybe you would prefer the rear 3/4" higher instead of 1/2"? You won't know until you jack it up and measure.

If you've changed your mind and now want a 3"/4.5" drop, then prepare to pay and play.
Yeah, I just bit the bullet. I dropped the coin on some Belltech coilovers. I'm going to leave the spindles in place for now and use the coilovers to get the nose down to where I'm happy with it.
Thanks for your assistance
 

NORCAL SS

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I use front drop struts. Sell em for 275 shipped
 

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iamdub

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Yeah, I just bit the bullet. I dropped the coin on some Belltech coilovers. I'm going to leave the spindles in place for now and use the coilovers to get the nose down to where I'm happy with it.
Thanks for your assistance

Nice. I'm interested to hear how they ride and handle in comparison to your PPV components.

BTW, save those springs- front and rear. If you'll never raise yours back up, you can sell 'em to recoup some of that coilover cost to someone wanting a mild drop.
 

992dr

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Yeah, I just bit the bullet. I dropped the coin on some Belltech coilovers. I'm going to leave the spindles in place for now and use the coilovers to get the nose down to where I'm happy with it.
Thanks for your assistance
Now you're getting serious.
I was going to comment in an earlier post about how you can get the snowball effect once you start lowering but you just grabbed the bull by both horns getting some coil-overs.
Like dub, I am very interested to hear how they drive/handle and please post pictures of the install if you are doing it yourself.
 
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signguy62

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Now you're getting serious.
I was going to comment in an earlier post about how you can get the snowball effect once you start lowering but you just grabbed the bull by both horns getting some coil-overs.
Like dub, I am very interested to hear how they drive/handle and please post pictures of the install if you are doing it yourself.
The install should be pretty straight forward. The coilovers come completely assembled. So it's just like doing a "ready strut". 3 nuts at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom.
 
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992dr

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The install should be pretty straight forward. The coilovers come completely assembled. So it's just like doing a "ready strut". 3 nuts at the top and a bolt through the bottom.

They came out with those after I rebuilt my front end and put a smorgashbord of parts to drop my PPV. I just haven't seen many installs with them. I'm a visual kinda guy :)
 

91RS

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You need the spacer for the rear springs. Belltech’s advertised drops for the rear springs are wrong. It’s a 4” with the spacer and 5” without.
 

NORCAL SS

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Dan wish you hit me up. My pricing is cheaper than anyone on belltech items.
 
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signguy62

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The install should be pretty straight forward. The coilovers come completely assembled. So it's just like doing a "ready strut". 3 nuts at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom.
Boy was I wrong. Not only does Belltech ship these coilovers no where near ready to install. Once you get them setup per their instructions, they don't just bolt up.
The three studs at the top don't quite line up with the mounting holes in the sping pockets. And they're quite a bit longer than the factory strut assembly (imagine that, a "drop" suspension part that's actually longer/taller than the factory part).
To remove the factory strut it was remove the sway bar end link, unbolt the three top mounting nuts, remove the two lower mounting bolts and simply push down on the control arms and the strut assembly drops free.
Installing the coilovers requires disconnecting the tie rod and separating the upper ball joint from the spindle, in order to get the lower control arm to drop low enough to get the longer "drop" coilover to fit.
Belltech really dropped the ball on these. Their directions tell you to follow removal procedures to reinstall......they forgot to mention all the other steps.
 

iamdub

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Boy was I wrong. Not only does Belltech ship these coilovers no where near ready to install. Once you get them setup per their instructions, they don't just bolt up.
The three studs at the top don't quite line up with the mounting holes in the sping pockets. And they're quite a bit longer than the factory strut assembly (imagine that, a "drop" suspension part that's actually longer/taller than the factory part).
To remove the factory strut it was remove the sway bar end link, unbolt the three top mounting nuts, remove the two lower mounting bolts and simply push down on the control arms and the strut assembly drops free.
Installing the coilovers requires disconnecting the tie rod and separating the upper ball joint from the spindle, in order to get the lower control arm to drop low enough to get the longer "drop" coilover to fit.
Belltech really dropped the ball on these. Their directions tell you to follow removal procedures to reinstall......they forgot to mention all the other steps.


I've noticed BT aren't the best with their instructions even with other, simpler products. My suggestion is to disregard them and use common sense and mechanical ability. The stud-to-mounting hole mismatch is a shame. But the rest can easily be overcome. If it were me, I'd pretend I wanted a 3" drop and lower the perch all the way to make the coilover as short as possible for installation, then adjust up from there. There's no need to match the original height perfectly then adjust down from there. The spring is probably longer and softer, which would attest for the reported better ride quality. A longer and softer spring would compress more, but the shock will still expand to its maximum and there will still be some pressure on the perch. It should still be much easier to compress to install. For longer-than-stock struts, such as with lift spacers, I use a scissor jack and block of wood to push up on (compress) the strut until I can pull it in to position on the lower control arm by hand or with a pry bar.
 
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signguy62

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I've noticed BT aren't the best with their instructions even with other, simpler products. My suggestion is to disregard them and use common sense and mechanical ability. The stud-to-mounting hole mismatch is a shame. But the rest can easily be overcome. If it were me, I'd pretend I wanted a 3" drop and lower the perch all the way to make the coilover as short as possible for installation, then adjust up from there. There's no need to match the original height perfectly then adjust down from there. The spring is probably longer and softer, which would attest for the reported better ride quality. A longer and softer spring would compress more, but the shock will still expand to its maximum and there will still be some pressure on the perch. It should still be much easier to compress to install. For longer-than-stock struts, such as with lift spacers, I use a scissor jack and block of wood to push up on (compress) the strut until I can pull it in to position on the lower control arm by hand or with a pry bar.
Thanks!
That's what I'm doing. Got the passenger side in. Working on driver side now. Much appreciate the help.
 
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signguy62

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They are a pain in the ass to install...But they're in. Need to be adjusted a little still.
 

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992dr

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Good advice from iamdub, I would've suggested the same thing. Especially having experience with BT stuff in the past.
Now's the fun part, adjust them and getter going.
They look good man, congrats.
Definitely looking for a review when you get some miles on them.
 

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