1998 Yukon How to test fuel filter/Weird pressure readings.

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OR VietVet

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You will know it when you see it. To get a good look, you may need to remove the cam sensor to really see it and attempt to clean it with I recommend brake kleen, because it evaporates so well, and air. The screen, looks like-well a screen and is no bigger than a dime size if not smaller. Has been a long time since I saw one. The cam sensor looks like this and is easy to remove. May want to replace while you have it out but that is just me: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10462464&cc=1305076&pt=7192&jsn=1002

Perfect time to replace the cap and rotor if is old or looks bad and you may have replaced before but I am not gonna scroll back in thread and see.
 
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OilBurner2003

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You will know it when you see it. To get a good look, you may need to remove the cam sensor to really see it and attempt to clean it with I recommend brake kleen, because it evaporates so well, and air. The screen, looks like-well a screen and is no bigger than a dime size if not smaller. Has been a long time since I saw one. The cam sensor looks like this and is easy to remove. May want to replace while you have it out but that is just me: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10462464&cc=1305076&pt=7192&jsn=1002

Perfect time to replace the cap and rotor if is old or looks bad and you may have replaced before but I am not gonna scroll back in thread and see.
Replaced cap and Rotor, I just thought of something as well. The cap and rotor I put on is very new, If the terminals on cap are corroded in a very little amount of time, is that also a sign that vent is plugged?
 
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OilBurner2003

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Yes. Especially if parked outside in wet weather.
Cap and rotor off, Here's what the cap and the distributor and cap look like. This is a brand new cap too, Look at all that corrosion lol
 

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OR VietVet

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That is the cam sensor in there and can unbolt and remove it when you turn the plate that the rotor attaches to and line that square cut slot up with the high spots of the cam sensor, for clearance. That square cut slot is 180 degrees across from the cam sensor high spots, in that pic. I have seen worse cap firing pins and I would not be that worried at this point about them, especially since runs fine at cold engine. If want to replace the cap and rotor, do so. If you look at that bottom plate area, at the 5 o'clock position, there is a black piece/plug that could be a vent for the distributor instead of the screen. The distributor used to have screens and may be redesigned now but it could also be designed now that there is no screen at this point and vents another way. I have no idea when and if the screen went away completely.
 
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OilBurner2003

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That is the cam sensor in there and can unbolt and remove it when you turn the plate that the rotor attaches to and line that square cut slot up with the high spots of the cam sensor, for clearance. That square cut slot is 180 degrees across from the cam sensor high spots, in that pic. I have seen worse cap firing pins and I would not be that worried at this point about them, especially since runs fine at cold engine. If want to replace the cap and rotor, do so. If you look at that bottom plate area, at the 5 o'clock position, there is a black piece/plug that could be a vent for the distributor instead of the screen. The distributor used to have screens and may be redesigned now but it could also be designed now that there is no screen at this point and vents another way. I have no idea when and if the screen went away completely.

Roger, I’ll do some digging and see what I can find. If I don’t find the screen it’s still good to check up on everything that’s down here anyway
 

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