1996 Tahoe/vacuum line driverside fire wall

[exp500]

May only have3. O2 sensors do not cause rough running. They only help economy/emissions.
Download a factory service manual. Will help you alot and there are many free places on the web.

 

[east302]

1996 chevy tahoe distributor cap replaced, all 3 o2 sensors, spark plugs and wires replaced, fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission casing replaced , new seals and filters in transmission. I was told the 5.7 L has 4 o2 sensors? I only replaced 3 one on driver side one on passenger side and the other in front of cat converter. Does anyone know where the 4th one is?

There is one up and downstream of each catalytic converter.

 

[Poorboy903]

Camshaft crankshaft correlator is the code it's throwing.

 

[drakon543]

distributor gear is possibly worn or the distributor got shifted during one of the cap swaps. your 5.7 wants to sit within + or - 2° of 0. the cam sensor is under the rotor mount they are fairly cheap and if you get the engine to rotate in the correct spot it can be removed fairly easily. i haven't dealt with those going bad very often except when the rotor plate separates and cuts clean through it. remove the cap again and gently try manually rotating the rotor. if the distributor gear is worn it will have rotational play without trying to push upward. the gear design on the can and distributor will try to push the rotor upwards when spun by hand. if you can move it without it trying to push upwards the gear may be the culprit. if there is little play your timing is off slightly causing your issue. looking at the distributor with the cap on one side of the distributor has a flat spot. that flat spot should be almost perfectly parallel with the back flat edge of the intake manifold. however i wouldn't count on that being 100%. at 270k id be willing to bet the distributor has been replaced atleast once prior. if you dont have access to a scanner capable of reading live data cam retard you can also try shooting fish in a barrel. loosen the 13mm hold down tab on the distributor slightly. rotate the distributor one direction slightly lock it back down. clear the cam code and try starting the truck if its worse you went the wrong direction. repeat in the opposite direction. you have found the sweet spot of the cam code stays gone. lastly if you dont have a scanner do not remove the distributor unless you feel like gambling. matching the gear back up with the tab for the oil pump does not guarantee you will be putting the distributor back in correctly.

 

[drakon543]

forgot to add
if it does turn out to be a faulty distributor and needs to be replaced dont go cheap. get an acdelco distributor or you will probably regret it.

 

[Poorboy903]

Does anyone have a picture of the layout of the sparkplug and wires to the distributor cap

 

[drakon543]

Does anyone have a picture of the layout of the sparkplug and wires to the distributor cap

firing order or just routing?

 

[Poorboy903]

firing order or just routing?

Routing please

 

[exp500]

I don't have a pic handy, these are easy- Passenger side wires go through sheet metal loop from distributor. Do long ones first. Drivers side easier . Start at distributor. Don't attach to plugs till close to very end, you will be adjusting wire length and droop in the clips. Aftermarket wires never exact lengths. Write numbers on wires or piece of tape, draw pic of locations on cap. Last verify location /order.

 

[east302]

loosen the 13mm hold down tab on the distributor slightly. rotate the distributor one direction slightly lock it back down. clear the cam code and try starting the truck if its worse you went the wrong direction. repeat in the opposite direction.

Adding to that, the left mounting tab on the distributor cap will be nearly touching the upper intake when it’s near zero degrees.