Hey guys anybody out there experience this. While turning to the left (usually) and backing and turning i intemtedly get a popping/snapping sound from the left front end. Brought it to the dealer picked it up today and they said they greased slide bar on calipers and cleaned up dust behind the rotors. In any event i take the truck home and the noise appears. I am so angry with this cause this just makes another inconvenince and another trip to the dealer. Please help fellas!!!!!
08 tahoe LTZ front end noise
- Thread starter champ112
- Start date
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That Guy
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Could be ranging from the wheel bearinngs to the sway bar and its end links, have the dealer cheack that if the problem goes on
WingsAA
CMFIC
I'm having the same issues as described here and this is one of them. My "popping" is coming from the driver front at slow speeds when backing.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1375
I'm certain it's the sway bar or end links, etc. As I have new bearings, brakes (rotors/pads), both front autoride shocks and left upper control arm/balljoint.
Keep me posted on what you find and I'll do the same. I'm taking mine back in next week.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1375
I'm certain it's the sway bar or end links, etc. As I have new bearings, brakes (rotors/pads), both front autoride shocks and left upper control arm/balljoint.
Keep me posted on what you find and I'll do the same. I'm taking mine back in next week.
rogersinsel
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4wd?
---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ----------
Jack up that corner and check the bearing yourself. I have found that with these types of things a little work at our end makes life easier at the dealer. Gones are the days when a mechanic actually thinks about a problem...the ltz suspension is complex. I see things on mine that I have NO idea what they are. IF it has been taken care of, no accidents or off roading then I'd start simple and move to the more complex issue. Do you have stock rims? Check the struts. Find out if the sound is while breaking or not. If it only when turning then it has to been within that area of the suspension. A lot said and not much delivered. Sorry.
---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ----------
Jack up that corner and check the bearing yourself. I have found that with these types of things a little work at our end makes life easier at the dealer. Gones are the days when a mechanic actually thinks about a problem...the ltz suspension is complex. I see things on mine that I have NO idea what they are. IF it has been taken care of, no accidents or off roading then I'd start simple and move to the more complex issue. Do you have stock rims? Check the struts. Find out if the sound is while breaking or not. If it only when turning then it has to been within that area of the suspension. A lot said and not much delivered. Sorry.
i t usually happens while braking. i just got back from the dealer and i am probably going back monday, the mechanic who seems very knowledgeable wants to talk to some of the other mechanics that he knows to see if they ran into this problem before. As for the wheels they are not stock but although they are 20 inch with exactly the same specs as the OEM. and besides these wheels have been on the truck for about 6000 miles. Now it seems as though if i go to a slow roll and turn the wheel a quarter turn right or left i have a noise that snaps/clunks while braking, BUT when the wheel is straight nothing happens. It still happens interminently while back as well with the wheel turned. I AM SO FUSTRATED
WingsAA
CMFIC
Good talking with you tonight! I'll keep you posted.
thx pal i will also do the same
---------- Post added at 10:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------
#06-08-61-003D: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator) - (Sep 10, 2008)
Subject: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator)
Models: 2004-2008 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2004-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
2004-2008 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic), Silverado
2004-2008 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL
2004-2008 GMC Sierra (Classic), Sierra Denali (Classic), Sierra, Sierra Denali
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include diagnosis information. Warranty information has also been updated. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-61-003C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a pop or clunk type noise while turning or driving on uneven road surfaces. This noise can be heard and/or felt at either the driver's or front passenger floor pan area.
Cause
Under certain conditions, normal movement between the frame and the #1, #2 or #3 body mounts may cause this noise to occur.
Diagnosis
1. If the vehicle is equipped with aftermarket (non-GM Accessory) running boards or the running board is mounted using the body mount bolt, remove the running boards prior to test driving the vehicle. This will eliminate the running boards as the possible cause of the noise.
2. Install the J-39570 Chassis Ears to the frame rail at or near the body mounts.
3. Test drive the vehicle to identify which mount is suspect.
Correction
Install an insulator at the suspect mount(s). The insulator should be installed between the upper portion of the body mount and the frame bracket. The #1 mount is the mount located just under the A-pillar. The #2 mount is the mount located just under the B-pillar. The #3 mount is the mount located just under the C-pillar. Use the procedure listed below.
INSULATOR PART NUMBER 15899719
1. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. It is recommended to use a four-post lift or strap the vehicle frame to the hoist arms.
2. For the left side mounts only, remove the intermediate park brake cable. Perform the following steps:
2.1. Remove the nut from the park brake equalizer.
2.2. Remove the intermediate cable from the equalizer.
2.3. Depress the retaining tabs that secure the park brake cable to the frame.
2.4. Pull slightly on the cable from the mounting area in order to provide slack for body movement without binding the cable.
3. Remove all of the body mount bolts on the side being repaired.
4. Properly support the body at the body mount area.
Caution: When you remove the body mount, do NOT separate the frame from the body more than is necessary. Possible personal injury and damage to multiple parts may result.
5. Lower the chassis accordingly in order to remove the upper portion of the body mount.
6. Install the new insulator to the bottom of the top portion of the body mount. The picture shows the insulator (1) location after the body mount is reassembled.
7. Install the body mount to the frame bracket.
8. Perform the following procedure before installing the bolts.
8.1. Clean the bolt threads of all the original thread locking compound.
8.2. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.
8.3. Apply Threadlocker, GM P/N 89021297 (In Canada, use P/N 10953488).
9. Install the body mount bolts.
Tighten
For 2003, 2004 and 2005 model year, tighten the bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).
Tighten
For 2006-2008 model year, tighten the bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).
10. Reinstall the intermediate park brake cable (left side only).
2007VictoryRedApr 29 2009, 08:06 PM
My truck was just at the dealer last week, with the same noise. And they told me there's nothing that they can do, back to the dealer!
P71_CrownVicMay 10 2009, 06:02 PM
QUOTE (2007VictoryRed @ Apr 29 2009, 08:06 PM)
My truck was just at the dealer last week, with the same noise. And they told me there's nothing that they can do, back to the dealer!
OMG...this is fantastic. I have had this problem since I bought my truck...and now there is a solution!!
I am so happy!
NS Sierra GuyMay 10 2009, 06:33 PM
Is this applicable to the 2009 model year? I am on my way to the dealer and I know the answer will be 'its your aftermarket tube steps that are causing it' and I would rather have this in hand when I go in.
sk1er18May 10 2009, 06:41 PM
QUOTE (NS Sierra Guy @ May 10 2009, 07:33 PM)
Is this applicable to the 2009 model year? I am on my way to the dealer and I know the answer will be 'its your aftermarket tube steps that are causing it' and I would rather have this in hand when I go in.
Do your aftermarket tube steps mount to the body mounts or the body pinch weld? Mine mount to the pinch weld.
The teflon pads are only $2.00 each... i actually ordered 4 of them since i had to pay $12 shipping (had to make it worth my while ). Install doesn't take long at all, hardest part is loosening up the body mount thats above the front bumper. Hour max for the job if you only have a racket set/wrenches and a driveway (oh, floor jack and block of wood too)
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
---------- Post added at 10:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------
#06-08-61-003D: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator) - (Sep 10, 2008)
Subject: Underbody Pop or Clunk Type Noise While Turning or Driving on Uneven Road Surfaces (Install Body Mount Insulator)
Models: 2004-2008 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2004-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe
2004-2008 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic), Silverado
2004-2008 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL
2004-2008 GMC Sierra (Classic), Sierra Denali (Classic), Sierra, Sierra Denali
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include diagnosis information. Warranty information has also been updated. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-61-003C (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a pop or clunk type noise while turning or driving on uneven road surfaces. This noise can be heard and/or felt at either the driver's or front passenger floor pan area.
Cause
Under certain conditions, normal movement between the frame and the #1, #2 or #3 body mounts may cause this noise to occur.
Diagnosis
1. If the vehicle is equipped with aftermarket (non-GM Accessory) running boards or the running board is mounted using the body mount bolt, remove the running boards prior to test driving the vehicle. This will eliminate the running boards as the possible cause of the noise.
2. Install the J-39570 Chassis Ears to the frame rail at or near the body mounts.
3. Test drive the vehicle to identify which mount is suspect.
Correction
Install an insulator at the suspect mount(s). The insulator should be installed between the upper portion of the body mount and the frame bracket. The #1 mount is the mount located just under the A-pillar. The #2 mount is the mount located just under the B-pillar. The #3 mount is the mount located just under the C-pillar. Use the procedure listed below.
INSULATOR PART NUMBER 15899719
1. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. It is recommended to use a four-post lift or strap the vehicle frame to the hoist arms.
2. For the left side mounts only, remove the intermediate park brake cable. Perform the following steps:
2.1. Remove the nut from the park brake equalizer.
2.2. Remove the intermediate cable from the equalizer.
2.3. Depress the retaining tabs that secure the park brake cable to the frame.
2.4. Pull slightly on the cable from the mounting area in order to provide slack for body movement without binding the cable.
3. Remove all of the body mount bolts on the side being repaired.
4. Properly support the body at the body mount area.
Caution: When you remove the body mount, do NOT separate the frame from the body more than is necessary. Possible personal injury and damage to multiple parts may result.
5. Lower the chassis accordingly in order to remove the upper portion of the body mount.
6. Install the new insulator to the bottom of the top portion of the body mount. The picture shows the insulator (1) location after the body mount is reassembled.
7. Install the body mount to the frame bracket.
8. Perform the following procedure before installing the bolts.
8.1. Clean the bolt threads of all the original thread locking compound.
8.2. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry.
8.3. Apply Threadlocker, GM P/N 89021297 (In Canada, use P/N 10953488).
9. Install the body mount bolts.
Tighten
For 2003, 2004 and 2005 model year, tighten the bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft).
Tighten
For 2006-2008 model year, tighten the bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).
10. Reinstall the intermediate park brake cable (left side only).
2007VictoryRedApr 29 2009, 08:06 PM
My truck was just at the dealer last week, with the same noise. And they told me there's nothing that they can do, back to the dealer!
P71_CrownVicMay 10 2009, 06:02 PM
QUOTE (2007VictoryRed @ Apr 29 2009, 08:06 PM)
My truck was just at the dealer last week, with the same noise. And they told me there's nothing that they can do, back to the dealer!
OMG...this is fantastic. I have had this problem since I bought my truck...and now there is a solution!!
I am so happy!
NS Sierra GuyMay 10 2009, 06:33 PM
Is this applicable to the 2009 model year? I am on my way to the dealer and I know the answer will be 'its your aftermarket tube steps that are causing it' and I would rather have this in hand when I go in.
sk1er18May 10 2009, 06:41 PM
QUOTE (NS Sierra Guy @ May 10 2009, 07:33 PM)
Is this applicable to the 2009 model year? I am on my way to the dealer and I know the answer will be 'its your aftermarket tube steps that are causing it' and I would rather have this in hand when I go in.
Do your aftermarket tube steps mount to the body mounts or the body pinch weld? Mine mount to the pinch weld.
The teflon pads are only $2.00 each... i actually ordered 4 of them since i had to pay $12 shipping (had to make it worth my while ). Install doesn't take long at all, hardest part is loosening up the body mount thats above the front bumper. Hour max for the job if you only have a racket set/wrenches and a driveway (oh, floor jack and block of wood too)
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
wmgood64
BILL
Great Article Champ!!!!!
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