2010 tahoe LT with dual climate and rear air. Tri zone?
No OBD codes,no CEL, autostart FINALLY works. But the air is marginal at best. I live in SWFL too, so its brutal.
When I have the ac on it will blow cooler than outside,but I can hear the clutch cycle. When I bought it the relay was jumped "without me knowing". It blows ice cold like that. But sometimes when I stop and restart like running errands it will blow warm. Not cool.
I have a VCX diag Tech 2 clone that I can get to communicate with vehicle. But zero idea how to use it to troubleshoot. Or even if I need to download some special additional software or if the software they sent was enough. Blend doors/actuators/idk where to start... Its been a while but I remember the ABS bleed option and ive programmed Keyfobs using it. Ive also done the hvac fuse pull reset.
Hooked gauges up after a long drive and everything was warm. It was about 80 ambient 70%humidity. The gauges would drop when compressor clicked on. From around 95 low to around 75 in a second then it would compress slower to around 65 in an additional second. High side is around 125 then 150.Clutch cycles everything starts to equalize and then compressor clicks back on. When Im listening its a constant on/off,on/off.... like 3 seconds apart. This is with relay in,not jumped. I havent tested it any other way. Im apprehensive using it because I dont want to really break something.
Cooling system has been upgraded and 700w fans "k5l" installed over the 500w it had. Trans and coolant temps are fine. Have aftermarket gauges on top of factory.
I dont have a cycle switch on the accumulator. So from what I gather its near the compressor.
Sorry for the ramble. Trying to be thorough...
Where do I go from here? Id rather test than throw parts at it.
No OBD codes,no CEL, autostart FINALLY works. But the air is marginal at best. I live in SWFL too, so its brutal.
When I have the ac on it will blow cooler than outside,but I can hear the clutch cycle. When I bought it the relay was jumped "without me knowing". It blows ice cold like that. But sometimes when I stop and restart like running errands it will blow warm. Not cool.
I have a VCX diag Tech 2 clone that I can get to communicate with vehicle. But zero idea how to use it to troubleshoot. Or even if I need to download some special additional software or if the software they sent was enough. Blend doors/actuators/idk where to start... Its been a while but I remember the ABS bleed option and ive programmed Keyfobs using it. Ive also done the hvac fuse pull reset.
Hooked gauges up after a long drive and everything was warm. It was about 80 ambient 70%humidity. The gauges would drop when compressor clicked on. From around 95 low to around 75 in a second then it would compress slower to around 65 in an additional second. High side is around 125 then 150.Clutch cycles everything starts to equalize and then compressor clicks back on. When Im listening its a constant on/off,on/off.... like 3 seconds apart. This is with relay in,not jumped. I havent tested it any other way. Im apprehensive using it because I dont want to really break something.
Cooling system has been upgraded and 700w fans "k5l" installed over the 500w it had. Trans and coolant temps are fine. Have aftermarket gauges on top of factory.
I dont have a cycle switch on the accumulator. So from what I gather its near the compressor.
Sorry for the ramble. Trying to be thorough...
Where do I go from here? Id rather test than throw parts at it.
