07 Tahoe engine hot ac turned off

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kbuskill

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So I made my own restrictor for the radiator today from the metal valve stem of an old TPMS sensor.

I cut the valve stem off right at the sensor like so...

rps20210107_165216_035-jpg.jpg


Then threaded the cut off portion into the nipple on the radiator, valve stem end first.

The bigger threaded portion of the stem, where the nut screws on to hold it to the rim, actually was a snug fit and I was able to thread it into the radiator and have it hold.

I obviously removed the valve stem core before installing this.


I also cut the old radiator apart and measured the restrictor hole.

For anyone curious, it is a 3/32" hole. Pretty dang small.

This valve stem may not have the exact size hole but it is definitely smaller than the original unrestricted hole.

The truck now gets up to its normal operating temperature of 192°- 194°.
 

kbuskill

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Ingenious.

Thanks... but I'm pretty sure it was just dumb luck... lol

But since it worked out I figured I would share my results in case anyone else might want to use my trick.

The thing I like about it is that once the hose is back on, nobody is the wiser... looks stock/without modification.
 
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Dukenukemx

Dukenukemx

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The problem has still been occurring, but I've just been clearing the code out with my ODB2 tool but I reread this post and it sounds like I should restrict the flow of coolant from the resevoir. I'm trying the clamp trick first to see if this prevents the issue. From there I guess I'll have to figure out a less jerry rigged method.
 

Geotrash

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The problem has still been occurring, but I've just been clearing the code out with my ODB2 tool but I reread this post and it sounds like I should restrict the flow of coolant from the resevoir. I'm trying the clamp trick first to see if this prevents the issue. From there I guess I'll have to figure out a less jerry rigged method.
When I installed my Cold Case radiator, I used a little brass fitting I found on the Dorman rack at my local Autozone. It was just the right size on the outside according to my calibrated eyeball, and the hole was about 3/32". It was a snug fit into the hose so it won't migrate to the tank. No problems. Let us know what you find.
 

Tozan

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When I installed my Cold Case radiator, I used a little brass fitting I found on the Dorman rack at my local Autozone. It was just the right size on the outside according to my calibrated eyeball, and the hole was about 3/32". It was a snug fit into the hose so it won't migrate to the tank. No problems. Let us know what you find.
I found a really easy fix on my Cold Case... Just take an empty / fired 45ACP case punch out the primer then shove it in the upper hose going to the overflow tank and reconnect the hose...
 

ktk11

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This is correct. I just went through this scenario in replacing the radiator on my 2006 as well. I had read several threads where guys had replaced the radiator and the truck would not get up to operating temperatures. The “engine hot” but is new information. But they couldn’t figure out why the truck was not getting up to operating temp. And as you stated on the OEM radiator there is a small restriction piece in the top line that routes coolant to the surge tank. I was seriously concerned about how to resolve this if my new radiator didn’t have the correct piece installed. I lucked out and the aftermarket radiator I got from 1800radiator.com had the correct restrictor in place.
Edit: hard to see in the photo but that little restriction almost looks like a little washer installed inside the piping that connects to the surge tank line:

View attachment 265383
could you send me a better picture of the restrictor hole size? Do you know the exact size? Is the a OEM radiator for a 5.3L? Thanks Ken [email protected]
 

iLikeEggs

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This morning I got the "Engine hot/turned off AC" message and the fans were screaming. There was no overheating and no CEL. This happened to me a while back. Turned out it was a bad connector on the pig tail to the engine coolant temp sensor. I replaced it along with the sensor and it fixed it, until now. Both parts were Duralast. I happened to have a spare pig tail and an AC Delco CTS so I replaced them. I also cleaned the negative terminals on both batteries and pulled the ECM fuse for about a minute. Started up and problem solved. Winning....for now anyway.
 

Tozan

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I found a really easy fix on my Cold Case... Just take an empty / fired 45ACP case punch out the primer then shove it in the upper hose going to the overflow tank and reconnect the hose...
UPDATE: I removed the coldcase radiator last year because it split at the seems... I no loner recommend Cold Case...
 

kbuskill

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I would’ve had to send it back so they can inspect it and determine if it’s warranty or not. Then wait with no radiator while they decide and send another POS. I was annoyed so I went back to OEM (Denso) and recycled the thing.
When mine started leaking I called them and he had me send pics and they sent me a replacement and I kept the old one. Just FYI.

New design fit much better and I haven't had any further issues, but only time will tell.
 

Geotrash

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When mine started leaking I called them and he had me send pics and they sent me a replacement and I kept the old one. Just FYI.

New design fit much better and I haven't had any further issues, but only time will tell.
I probably should have called, but their return policy, as written, made me think it wasn't worth it. And, after all of the problems with them others here have had too, I wouldn't have trusted the thing anyway.
 

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