05Single's virgin build thread. 03 tahoe

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ScottyBoy

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Well, that brown/white wire isn't the headlight wire. It IS the illumination wire. That wire is energized when the headlights or parking lights are on, and it powers the backlighting on all the buttons on every switch on the dash. Which includes the headlight switch, 4X4 switch, AC controls, and the radio. Now it has nothing to do with the radio screen, just the backlighting on the actual buttons. If you have an aftermarket stereo, then it might not even have the illumination wire connected, as most radios just have the buttons lit up the entire time the radio in on, not just at night when the headlights are on. So to make a long story short, if you had connected your power wire to the brown/white wire behind the radio, then it would work EXACTLY the same way its working being connected to the brown/white wire at the headlight switch because its the same wire.
 
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05Single

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Oh yea sorry I know it's not the headlight switch I was just saying in general, headlight harness, my bad or the confusion . I know it's specifically for the dash lighting which is what I was looking for so it would also dim with the dash lighting. Anyway in the end I have way too many wires back there already, I don't need another and honestly I didn't wanna deal with it. When I get a new deck I'll probably do it the right way lol, which is take the whole harness out and solder and insulate like how I have the harness now.
Already have a audio jack, steering controls, antenna adapter, bose adapter, usb, amp rca's, and later will add a av cable for a rear monitor. It's crammed full behind that deck lol.
 
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05Single

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Nothing new
Picked this up from my cousin for cheap cheap.
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Anyway it hits ok and sounds clean. Gonna maybe get a bigger box and definately a proper amp for it. Have a old 200 alpine going to it now that was powering that stock 8" on the right that was hooked up for a few months lol. Looking at a new 400 watt amp tomorrow . Then hopefully a 1000 watt soon after.
I was just looking at shallow 8s ( http://www.kicker.com/8-comprt-subwoofer-2-ohm# ) for the factory mounting area but then my cousin was getting rid of this and needed some money so I scooped it up.

Either way I haven't had a sub system in 6 years, longest without in my life ever since I got my licence at 16 lol. Way over due.
 
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Out with the old alpine 200watt and in with the new Fosgate 400watt. Huge difference, obviously twice the power and twice the sound
I'm happy but will want at least a 800w later
I did tighty up the wires don't worry guys lol

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Soooo.....been putting this off all summer. Took off my running boards for a much better and badass look and revealed a much more badass and super rusted frame .
Not a good look at all and actually quite embarrassing. :( such an eye sore.

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Went to home depot and got 2 cans of primer and 2 cans of undercoating.
1 can of each for each side. Ended up with 3 pretty solid coats of primer and 3 coats of undercoating on each side. (Make sense? )
First was what I've been dreading....wire brush and crawling under. Using a power drill for main parts and hand brush for hard to reach corners.
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Drivers side primed. 3 coats ( 1 can) (taped off brake lines)
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Drivers side undercoated. 3 coats ( 1 can)
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Repeat on passenger side.


With the camera flash you can see rocker rust, **** this state destroys vehicles. Anyway that's for another day.
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And boom!!! dirty ass tahoe with clean ass frame.:party36:
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.
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So glad that part is done and over with. :gr_grin:
 

Countryboy07

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Took my running boards off to prevent the rust... They had already rubbed through the paint on a couple spots. Frame looks much better!
 
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Yea well the damage is already done on mine. But as long as I have it then it will be prevented.
Such a big project for me and knowing that it's done feels good.
Plus it only cost me $20 , as a shop would've cost $200+
 
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Time for a bath after a 24hr dry time for the undercoating. See how much of a difference I made in me and my tahoes lives. Also scrubbed the crap out of the wheel wells.
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Well the front looks good with the blacked out billet inserts and lip. Grille needs to be cm soon.
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Damn that frame came out good!! now all people focus on is the body. Mission success!!!

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I know I know,....it needs tint!!!
 
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So after I removed the factory flares awhile back I noticed a rub line. Mainly on the rears, not so much on the small door pieces though. The fronts weren't nearly as bad and would probably buff out.
So I'm trying to figure out if it's correctable , they look pretty deep but are they beyond repair? A cut and buff might blend it in? Touch up would never turn out right for this. I've ton tons of body work and paint but never came across this issue till now.
What's your guy's thoughts ?
As I'm sure this is a common problem.

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Prepped my carpet for a proper shampoo with an extractor.
Fyi the plastic trim for the 3rd row are not clipped on but glued on lol. No big deal just thought it was strange GM would glue these down. Guess I'll glue then back down later .
Removed seats and door sill plates too. Wasn't really bad to begin with so they came out almost like new.
Now every piece of my interior is near spotless and my ocd can focus on other stuff like paint .

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I'm thinking of what I can put down in the cargo area but I can still cut out the holes for the 3rd row too as a protective layer like rubber or plastic. Any ideas ?
 

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Carpet looks good.

If not buying an actual cargo liner and not shooting for a pretty application...

... just a thought why not get a big piece of rubber matting off the roll and cut to fit.

Or this stuff is pretty badass. We use it on the boats. Again not sure what application you are shooting for so just winging ideas into the Last Frontier.

http://www.dri-dek.com/?gclid=CO3pot7T684CFY4kgQodknANVg
 

osiris94ej

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Prepped my carpet for a proper shampoo with an extractor.
Fyi the plastic trim for the 3rd row are not clipped on but glued on lol. No big deal just thought it was strange GM would glue these down. Guess I'll glue then back down later .
Removed seats and door sill plates too. Wasn't really bad to begin with so they came out almost like new.
Now every piece of my interior is near spotless and my ocd can focus on other stuff like paint .

20160829_195433.jpg

20160829_200302.jpg

20160830_122230.jpg

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I'm thinking of what I can put down in the cargo area but I can still cut out the holes for the 3rd row too as a protective layer like rubber or plastic. Any ideas ?
Lund 411502 Catch-All Xtreme Gray Rear Cargo Floor Mat https:
//www.amazon.com/dp/B0009N4G3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0.SXxb0512CN1

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

Tonyrodz

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Pioneer AVH-....POS lol.
It's ok for a basic deck but I kick myself for not stepping up to a nicer one.
It randomly turns off and restarts sometimes. I have no idea why. Need to bench test it.

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Makes a big difference in sound. It's like it finally breathes life into these bose speakers.....remember the owner before was an old geezer so these speakers were never abused. Don't worry I'm still getting aftermarket sub and amp later
I had to remove that metal brace behind the radio to get my Pioneer in. Mine was too deep and it wouldn't go all the way in. Fyi-metal edges we're very sharp! I think mine is the AV-X2600BT.
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here's my parking brake bypass.
 
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