01 Shutting off no crank, no start.

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builds4christ

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Hey all,

Just got this 01 Burban 5.3 from a buddy that's been giving me some problems. It randomly shuts off and randomly gives me a no crank no start.

Eventually it works again. Initially I was having some trouble fully disarming the viper alarm system and decided to remove that all together. Now all that's left is the passlock right?

I tried wiggling the key while it's running but nothing happens.

Do you guys have any guidance for me on how to approach this problem? It happens infrequently, but it has left me stranded once and I'm not confident in actually driving it anywhere, which sucks.
 
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Hey all,

Just got this 01 Burban 5.3 from a buddy that's been giving me some problems. It randomly shuts off and randomly gives me a no crank no start.

Eventually it works again. Initially I was having some trouble fully disarming the viper alarm system and decided to remove that all together. Now all that's left is the passlock right?

I tried wiggling the key while it's running but nothing happens.

Do you guys have any guidance for me on how to approach this problem? It happens infrequently, but it has left me stranded once and I'm not confident in actually driving it anywhere, which sucks.
Check the simple stuff. Make sure those battery terminals are clean and snug. Sometimes, if they're not, it can mess with how your car behaves. Then, give your battery a quick check-up with a voltmeter or battery tester to see if it's in good shape.
 
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builds4christ

builds4christ

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I would first check for corroded grounds. Very common issue.

Oh no way. I don't suppose there's diagram of where the grounds are is there? Come to think of it, I wouldn't be surprised because it's a North Dakota truck and has some rust for sure.
 
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builds4christ

builds4christ

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Check the simple stuff. Make sure those battery terminals are clean and snug. Sometimes, if they're not, it can mess with how your car behaves. Then, give your battery a quick check-up with a voltmeter or battery tester to see if it's in good shape.
The battery was utterly dead and bad when I got the truck so I replaced it and the terminals. The terminals were beat to shit
 

rockola1971

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Is the security light flashing or remaining on after the vehicle starts? Security should not keep the engine from cranking or starting. If security is actively in lockdown then the engine will start and shutoff after about 5-10secs.
 
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builds4christ

builds4christ

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Is the security light flashing or remaining on after the vehicle starts? Security should not keep the engine from cranking or starting. If security is actively in lockdown then the engine will start and shutoff after about 5-10secs.
I don't believe it is a security issue after some work. I removed the crappy viper alarm and did a passlock relearn. The light does not stay on after start. Checked grounds and they seem ok, sturdy and not corroded (surprisingly). Drove it around for a bit and warmed it up a good amount. Shut her down and no crank again. IDK maybe its just a bad starter?

Thank you all for your comments and information provided by the way!!!
 
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Marky Dissod

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Had similar symptoms present differently.
Symptoms have improved since I cleaned the throttle body, but the saga continues.
Will try changing flex fuel concentration composition sensor & O2 sensors next ...
 

strutaeng

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The way the VATS works is: engine cranks and fires, but the ECU will kill both injector pulse, spark and fuel pressure instantaneously.

It basically and dies immediately. Agree: that doesn't sound like your symptoms...

In your situation, you may have more than one issue going on. Intermittently sticking starter is one possibility on the no-crank condition. Next time it won't crank go down there and tap the starter while a helper tries to crank.
 
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builds4christ

builds4christ

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Had similar symptoms present differently.
Symptoms have improved since I cleaned the throttle body, but the saga continues.
Will try changing flex fuel concentration composition sensor & O2 sensors next ...
It's frustrating man.

I know the increase in temperature also increases resistance in wiring. Maybe it IS a dang ground, but none of them look too bad or bad at all. My buddy tells me he thinks he changed the starter when he first had this problem, so maybe it's not that.

Intermittent electrical issues suck!

It could even be a bad relay no? Hmmm.
 

Marky Dissod

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I'm not having a no crank issue.
Since you are, my guess is some your old wiring may need updating, Big 3 style.
 

nonickatall

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Shut her down and no crank again. IDK maybe its just a bad starter?

Thank you all for your comments and information provided by the way!!!
Sounds to me like s stuck magnetic switch in the starter. Try to bridge the starter relais. Then you know if something else, like security, a defective ignition lock or bad grounds are the issue. Or if the starter itself is the problem.
 
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builds4christ

builds4christ

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Guys
Sounds to me like s stuck magnetic switch in the starter. Try to bridge the starter relais. Then you know if something else, like security, a defective ignition lock or bad grounds are the issue. Or if the starter itself is the problem.
It turned out to be the starter. I waited until the condition occurred and tried jumping the starter at the relay, no dice. Waited until it cooled, jumped at the relay and boom it cranked.

Thanks so much for your input everyone, it was very much appreciated! I was having a problem with it dying as well, but that turned out to be a bad older style alarm system with an immobilizer. I initially thought it was the same thing causing both problems and that was throwing me off, haha!

You guys are an awesome community, thanks again!
 

rockola1971

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Those old aftermarket alarm systems ALWAYS come back to haunt someone. Been like that since the 80s! Someone will buy a vehicle and not even know that the system was installed and find out the hard way when the alarm module fails, especially if it has an immobilizer. And its usually not at a convenient time.
 

nonickatall

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Those old aftermarket alarm systems ALWAYS come back to haunt someone. Been like that since the 80s! Someone will buy a vehicle and not even know that the system was installed and find out the hard way when the alarm module fails, especially if it has an immobilizer. And its usually not at a convenient time.
But the car manufacturers has learned from it.

Back in the days, you had to install aftermarket alarms to make good cars fail and be thrown away.

Today the industry builds the cars directly so that they can be taken to the scrapyard after the warranty period.

The German automotive industry is now a leader in this area... :thumbsup:
 
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builds4christ

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Welp, I replaced the starter but no dice. Is it possible it's the neutral safety switch? It's confusing because I can't start it in neutral either, but the PRND321 doesn't show what gear I'm in half the time, anyway. Maybe it doesn't know I'm in neutral or park?

And why does it seem depend on the temperature?
 

nonickatall

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Well i am not sure but i csn imagine that the information, what gear you are in, for the ecm is the same source like your PRND123.

And your car should prevent start in gear other than P or N to prevent a moving car after start.

Electrical issues are often temperature related...
 
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builds4christ

builds4christ

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Well i am not sure but i csn imagine that the information, what gear you are in, for the ecm is the same source like your PRND123.

And your car should prevent start in gear other than P or N to prevent a moving car after start.

Electrical issues are often temperature related...
Yeah it gets it from the neutral safety switch. But what I'm confused about is how the relay and neutral safety switch are wired in to the starting circuit.

I'd like to see a schematic of that.
 

nonickatall

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Are you sure? I honestly don't know how this is at our cars, but I know from other cars, that the neutral safety switch is only additional safety, that the car is in park on neutral when you start the engine. But the information often comes from the shift lever sensor itself.
 

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