What do you think is happenning...

vortec issue yes. I new dizzy body would be good and I can mod the old for a priming tool but I am spent out now. I am sure the engine bearings will be fine I just wanted to oil them up and recirc and filter the existing oil a bit since it has been sitting for two months. I will however be using assembly lube on push rods and head valve train and dabble some clean oil over the heads before covering and start-up. I will get a few engine cycles in, change out old oil for new dino and after a few cycle of diluting the old change it to the K&N filter and Mobile1 synthetic I have now. There will be very little dino left afterwards. As soon As that is done and I have a c-bill I will take it to my local dyno shop near here and see how things turn out with the new components on the 236K mile cylinder block. I am sure the bearings will be fine. I have almost 70psi pressure at cold start and maintain 30psi at hot idle. Just would have been nice to prelube and filter the old juice of repair debris and grit first.

Aiming for this weekend again.

Seems like a pretty good plan to me. And at that pressure I'm sure your bearings are gonna be fine
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Hey, congrats on the new red stuff!

You'll need some new plug wire holders. Your right the OEM holders are not big enough for the 8.5mm MSD wires.

I couldn't find the part # of what I used, so I just looked em up at Summit.
Try THESE?

I can't wait to hear about your impressions of the D6AL box. That is what I was aiming for when I did mine, but they were still on back order then. I ended up with Atomic's old box. Curious to see if I need to upgrade!

I'll bet you can't wait to go try another WOT!!!

Just pull the fuel pump relay and crank it untill it builds pressure on the gauge, that's what I do anytime I change the oil.

I would pull the plugs, disconnect the coil input, pull fuel pump relay and then crank it as much as you want.

Since the plugs are out, you wont have any compression and no load on the crank and rod bearings.....also your starter wont hate you since it will be mostly free spinning the engine.
Hell, while you are at it, do a compression check to make sure everything is ok.

Won't be doing a compression test again until it it ready for for the dyno and with a warm engine.

Well finally some progress. I was able to get some help from another local member here As was able to get the left head torqued down and the right side is just sitting snug at the moment in the hour or two he was here. Hopefully Sunday he will be here again so we can finish the right one and I can get on with the rest of engine and MSD upgrades.

Right head is done. the comp cams 1418-16 1.6 roller tip rockers I bought used would not clear the push rod to head hole clearance so the stock one went back on. All valves are adjusted and covers are on.

Intake manifold has severely damaged heater hose QD hole. so I am waiting on a good use one from another member(Thanks again Trip).

Also note I bought Dorman 674-013 exhaust manifold bolts and they are to long. Will double check application but just a FYI.

I re-verified the application of the Dorman 674-013. Dorman says they are the correct application. I can say they are to long and do not fit. That is my official position on the product. They do not work.

Alright another update. The manifold I have been waiting for arrived today and will be bath tanked in the morning. So hopefully a lot of work will be done tomorrow.

In the meantime this is on its way here soon.

http://www.amazon.com/Flex---lite-280-92-99-Chevy/dp/B000CNHFTE

Efans are here. intake manifold is on as is most of the rest of engine to go on. Still have two sensors. head plug, grounds, coolant hose(and some coolant), spark plugs wires, cap-rotor, dizzy, air intake, MSD ign box, Flexalite 280 efans and see what happens. A shot of manifold after an engine shop cleaning.(Tripper I bet you didn't think it would look that good did you? Thanks again.) Have to finish tomorrow.

wow.....

Well after several months of down time and and waiting for money on parts it is finally finished. It went from a cracked inter cylinder head gasket seal to new cylinder heads to a replacing the intake manifold to start-up.

As for the start-up I cranked with no plugs in to build up oil pressure and bleed out the injectors. After doing so and putting the rest of MSD ignition in it started within 1 revolution of engine turning.

Did have an issue with the engine overheating but the problem was resolved by squeezing the upper radiator hose. Usually I remove a thermostat and fill the system so the bottom half is sitting in coolant when the housing is put on that way engine heated coolant is can activate it with out trouble right away. This time I did do that and lo and behold I had a huge air pocket around it. So after squeezing the upper hose that super hot coolant opened the the thermo and it started flowing and the rest of air bled out into the reservoir as designed. Strange how a feeling of the hose fixed it but as it flowed the temp gauge started going down from 250 down 180 when I started the engine again. Has not jump to 200 since I now think I now how this problem shows up every time we empty our cooling systems but for now it is a subject for another time. A 35 mile trip turned up no issues at all.

I still have not put the flexalite fans on yet. I may have to wait a little bit. I have to move to Michigan by the 13th. And still don't have the money to leave by Monday but I am still trying.

I would like to thank all who have contributed to this thread and while it may still lack a lot of details like part numbers used I hope it has been informative to every one else. If I make it Michigan I will get back here again in the next month to post some part details and answer any questions.


SunlitComet.

I Just wanted to let you know>>>>> GOOD JOB I wish i have that money to purchase all that MSD stuff and other item..... Do i really have to purchase new Head Bolts?? dammm. How much your new head bolts cost you.. Also when you purchase your new Head. did it come with the rocker to compress them Valve Spring? I don't see it.

yes new bolts are required and get new manifold bolts too. Head bolt can only be used once but all of them came with the perfect amount of required sealant in the exact spot it is needed for install.

Fel-Pro ES72856 for heads one box for each had at $25 each.

Fel-Pro Es72224 Intake Manifold Bolt Set, one box for whole engine also $25

Fel-Pro Gaskets Hst7733pt16 Head Gasket Set $79 includes everygasket from cylinder head upward.

you reuse the rocker armsand rods if in good shape. or perhaps pick-up some 1.5 arms for a little bit extra power. unless you machine the heads further they will not accept 1.6 arms.