Revert back to OEM Z55 suspension, good or bad idea?

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chutkin

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Joseph Garcia

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Thanks! Useful info. I will stop any mods before I finish current work :)

I started with plan only to change leaking transmission lines and ended with engine out :)
That is what is commonly called 'scope creep'. In your case, perhaps it should be better labeled as 'scope leap'.
 
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chutkin

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That is what is commonly called 'scope creep'. In your case, perhaps it should be better labeled as 'scope leap'.
:D:D:D
At least, I will have refreshed car except transmission at this time. The oil pan was relatively clean, no metal shavings at all. Fluid was dark.

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In Carfax, there were two records:
at 83K miles -Internal transmission repaired
at 101K miles -Transmission serviced

And I guess, torque converter is changed because there was hand writing on it that does not look like factory.

Cheers!
Ivo
 

BaffledRob

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On my 2013, I replaced the z55 with the Arnott kit to standard shocks/springs. I do not like it. Over sprung and under rebound-damped in the rear. At the same time, I swapped the 20" stock wheels with 18" wheels and that didn't help much with the ride. Will be going back to the z55.
 

Sir_Hiro

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Hi all,

Front end is almost done. See picture of the passenger side :)

View attachment 478659

View attachment 478660

I have trouble with brake lines. I was able to loosen hoses but flare nut is "welded" to brake line. I think it is covered with some type of plastic paint or so. If I apply some force the line starts to bent but the flare nut does not move.

View attachment 478661

Is there some safe way to free up these nuts?

Thanks for your help!
Ivo
Heat. Dont need to get the nut red hot but get it hot. It should loosen the line up from the nut.
 
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chutkin

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Heat. Dont need to get the nut red hot but get it hot. It should loosen the line up from the nut.
Thanks, this did the trick.

Now I have new brake hoses all around and rebuild brake calipers and supports.

Jumping to another topic...

I also cleaned the fuel injectors. I am waiting for micro filters to arrive. On youtube, I watched videos that filter is placed flat with the injector.

What I see on mine i that filters are installed deep in the injector:
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What is the correct way to install them?
 

Sir_Hiro

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Thanks, this did the trick.

Now I have new brake hoses all around and rebuild brake calipers and supports.

Jumping to another topic...

I also cleaned the fuel injectors. I am waiting for micro filters to arrive. On youtube, I watched videos that filter is placed flat with the injector.

What I see on mine i that filters are installed deep in the injector:View attachment 480919

View attachment 480920

What is the correct way to install them?
Thats good to hear. Im about to tackle my rear cailpers. The driver side is sticking and I just put new Powerstop pads on it I dont want to watch that money burn away.
 
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chutkin

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Hi again,

Progressing slowly...

The time to fill rear diff have come. I see G80 RPO code. Do I need to add LSD additive, like AMSOIL Slip Lock® Differential Additive to the oil?

AI answer is that G80 do not need additive, just regular 75W90 is OK.

Thanks,
Ivo
 

mikez71

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No additive in mine.
I believe additive is for clutch type lsd's?
 
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chutkin

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Thanks mikez71,

Another question, I am not able to remove front diff fill plug. It is striped. I order new one.

Is it OK to heat it with a torch? I guess plug is iron but the casing is some aluminum alloy or so...

Thanks,
Ivo
 

mikez71

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Sorry, I don't know to what degree you can heat drain plug safely..

Do you have a welder? Might be easier to unscrew if you can weld a nut on..
 
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chutkin

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I was able to loosen it with some heat and nut extractor socket.

This is the only fluid that looks new despite all vows for "all new fluids" I got from the guy I bought the car from :D:D:D

Will keep you updated :)
 

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