Let's sift through every square inch of a 2013 Tahoe PPV

Pictures are finally uploading.



Are the relocation brackets supposed to be swung out like that? It’s the only way they fit.

It actually wasn’t that big of a drop compared to stock PPV height.

Anybody have input on the trailing arm brackets? I’ll probably email DJM.



I’ve been busy trying to get my Audi project done before winter. I’m going a little bit overboard in some regards and spending time on lots of silly little details.

20 pounds of boost with AWD and a manual trans sounds like a whole lot of fun in the snow.

Those brackets are supposed to be bolted to the axle not hanging down like that. I'm not sure if I have any good pics... I will look.

kbuskill said:

Those brackets are supposed to be bolted to the axle not hanging down like that. I'm not sure if I have any good pics... I will look.

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I started out with the flat portion bolted to the axle, but it was literally several inches away from the trailing arm.

It's physically impossible to bolt the brackets up any other way.

The only way to make it work that way would be to use extended and/or adjustable trailing arms.

Caddylack said:

I started out with the flat portion bolted to the axle, but it was literally several inches away from the trailing arm.

It's physically impossible to bolt the brackets up any other way.

The only way to make it work that way would be to use extended and/or adjustable trailing arms.

Click to expand...

Sounds like your axle needs to rotate (change Pinion angle) in order to line up properly.

Mine are bolted flat to the axle and everything lines up with stock upper and lower trailing arms.

kbuskill said:

Sounds like your axle needs to rotate (change Pinion angle) in order to line up properly.

Mine are bolted flat to the axle and everything lines up with stock upper and lower trailing arms.

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I'm confused.

Wait... I get it now...

I had my jack stands under the axle housing because I wanted the suspension loaded for tightening bolts.

What I need to do is jack the rear up by the frame and let the axle hang.

Caddylack said:

Wait... I get it now...

I had my jack stands under the axle housing because I wanted the suspension loaded for tightening bolts.

What I need to do is jack the rear up by the frame and let the axle hang.

Click to expand...

Any updates?

kbuskill said:

Any updates?

Click to expand...

YES!

When I went to reinvestigate, I immediately noticed that the problem had corrected itself.

Just from moving the Tahoe a short distance to park it, everything clunked back into place. I just need to put the bolt back in on each side, and I'm good.

Now I need to do the front struts, sway bar, tie rods, and upper control arms. The floorstanding strut compressor that I ordered from Jegs should be here in the next couple of weeks.

Lots to report…

I’ve been doing the front, and documenting with pics… BUT… I decided that the original strut bumpers needed to be replaced. At first I planned to just clean them and reuse them, but they were becoming brittle.

My dumb ass threw the originals in the dumpster before I checked the part number. I tried my best to figure out which strut bumpers were appropriate, and I still don’t know if the PPV used different ones in the front or not. I ended up ordering the ones from DJM, just because it seemed like the safe bet since I’m using their coil springs.

As I’m working on the Tahoe, I’m simultaneously driving like a dick in my Challenger, and this happened:

Caddylack said:

Lots to report…

I’ve been doing the front, and documenting with pics… BUT… I decided that the original strut bumpers needed to be replaced. At first I planned to just clean them and reuse them, but they were becoming brittle.

My dumb ass threw the originals in the dumpster before I checked the part number. I tried my best to figure out which strut bumpers were appropriate, and I still don’t know if the PPV used different ones in the front or not. I ended up ordering the ones from DJM, just because it seemed like the safe bet since I’m using their coil springs.

As I’m working on the Tahoe, I’m simultaneously driving like a dick in my Challenger, and this happened:

View attachment 440482
View attachment 440483

View attachment 440484
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View attachment 440486

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Hopefully wasn't your fault. Damn.

DJM sent me the wrong parts, so I still can’t put my struts together. Anyway…

Here is a question about struts…

There is a small metal bracket/spacer that is part of the upper strut mount assembly… Bilstein supplies one with their struts. The OEM version is thicker or “beefier”… Would it make any sense to keep the OEM version? Here is a side by side:

DJM is correcting their mistake and sending the correct parts, for the record.

I started doing the plugs and wires today. Since I have the front end taken apart and the wheel housings removed, it makes sense to do it now.

The plugs are definitely toast, upon inspection. I've put about 35k on the truck without changing the plugs until now, so they are at least that old. They're Delco platinums.

When it comes to spark plugs, I usually like to use copper and change them frequently. I make exceptions in situations where the plugs are hard to get to, but ours are about as easy as it gets.

It's unbelievable how long I've had the Tahoe sitting on jack stands now. A relatively quick and easy job has turned into multiple weeks of strut bumper silliness. I should have just grabbed one from a parts store in the beginning, but I just couldn't decide on which part number to use. The new package from DJM should be here soon.

Really, I could have done the A-arms and sway bar while I waited for the strut bumpers, but I've been pouting instead.

Ugh... Advice needed...

For only the second time in my life, Rock Auto ****** up. I ordered the adjustable upper A-arms, due to lowering the truck. They sent me the regular version that can't be adjusted. I waited too long to send them back, so I'm screwed.

I just wanted to clarify that I am not able to use regular stock A-arms with 3" drop springs.

I feel like I really should have used drop spindles in the front.

The truck is still on jack stands but it's warm outside today so I got a little spark of energy.

Caddylack said:

Ugh... Advice needed...

For only the second time in my life, Rock Auto ****** up. I ordered the adjustable upper A-arms, due to lowering the truck. They sent me the regular version that can't be adjusted. I waited too long to send them back, so I'm screwed.

I just wanted to clarify that I am not able to use regular stock A-arms with 3" drop springs.

I feel like I really should have used drop spindles in the front.

The truck is still on jack stands but it's warm outside today so I got a little spark of energy.

Click to expand...

There are aftermarket cam plates that allow for extra camber adjustment. They also make offset ball joints for camber adjustment.

Personally I believe the drop struts are the best option.

Hey there, guys… Long time no see!

Life got a little bit messy there for a minute, and the Tahoe got put on the back burner. I’m finally digging back into it. I’ve been reading this thread to try to refresh my memory on where I left off.

I’m sort of stuck on this one particular issue:

I have 2” drop front coil springs, and new Moog UCAs that are non-adjustable. I bought the adjustable Belltech camber plates, thinking that was all I needed to make this work. I just took a peek at the installation instructions from Belltech, and they want me to use a grinder to open up the bolt holes in the frame? WTF?

I’m starting to wonder if I should just buy some drop spindles and use my factory PPV springs? If I use drop spindles and PPV springs, and I mount the struts to the bottom of the LCA, can I get away with using the regular OEM camber plates, or? I’m trying to remember how this equation works.

Thanks

Caddylack said:

Hey there, guys… Long time no see!

Life got a little bit messy there for a minute, and the Tahoe got put on the back burner. I’m finally digging back into it. I’ve been reading this thread to try to refresh my memory on where I left off.

I’m sort of stuck on this one particular issue:

I have 2” drop front coil springs, and new Moog UCAs that are non-adjustable. I bought the adjustable Belltech camber plates, thinking that was all I needed to make this work. I just took a peek at the installation instructions from Belltech, and they want me to use a grinder to open up the bolt holes in the frame? WTF?

I’m starting to wonder if I should just buy some drop spindles and use my factory PPV springs? If I use drop spindles and PPV springs, and I mount the struts to the bottom of the LCA, can I get away with using the regular OEM camber plates, or? I’m trying to remember how this equation works.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Yes you need to oblong the holes for this cams if you want to use them. Take a look here for more details: