Coolant Pressure 6.0L Vortec

Second on the gauge issue.. The 5.3 and 6.2 L engines read at 210* anywhere
between 180* and 220* .. So it's only a bit better than a dummy gauge..
You need to read it with some type of scanner and see what the actual ECM sees as
the temp.. Your coolant temp sensor could also be bad.
IF you haven't replaced the fan clutch yet.. Do so with a good quality aftermarket
clutch. You Still need to test the cooling system with a pressure kit.. You can even
buy one for less than $75 , so quit just throwing parts at it.

There are several companies that make a nice bolt in electric fan module for
your 2500 6.0L. Just do a google search.

Yeah spend the 11 dollars on an android bluetooth reader and find out what the true coolant reading is. Torque is a decent app and give you lots of data without dumping the cash on a tech2.

I find it ridiculous that the temp guage is so non chalant under 210. The mechanic told me, "well I put the 160 degree tstat in, but the engine temp guage still says 210 and that doesnt seem right." Well, courtesy of this forum, I knew how inaccurate the temp guage is. On mine, temp is at 180, and gauge reads 210. I get the fact that the fluctuating gauge is going to confuse and scare the soccer moms that drive these things, but then you get confused people like you when common sense says something might not be right with this indicator.

Now, my 2500 rises a bit when its just sitting in the hot sun. I dont remember the exact numbers, but it was probably 220ish. I've got a new tstat, new rad, good coolant, and the system is reasonably healthy, it just is what it is. Find out the exact numbers, that will tell us more.

When I haul, I use a handy tablet that was lying around to give me all my stats in transit.

Foggy said:

Second on the gauge issue.. The 5.3 and 6.2 L engines read at 210* anywhere
between 180* and 220* .. So it's only a bit better than a dummy gauge..
You need to read it with some type of scanner and see what the actual ECM sees as
the temp.. Your coolant temp sensor could also be bad.
IF you haven't replaced the fan clutch yet.. Do so with a good quality aftermarket
clutch. You Still need to test the cooling system with a pressure kit.. You can even
buy one for less than $75 , so quit just throwing parts at it.

There are several companies that make a nice bolt in electric fan module for
your 2500 6.0L. Just do a google search.

Click to expand...

my 6.0L runs at 96c (the needle shows a tad below the 210 mark which means it's accurate 96c= 204.8f )according to a OBD2 scanner dual electrical fans(remember this is also cooling the transmission and inverter) so it has the heavy duty radiator. it has the massive reservoir tank which holds another gallon of coolant by it self

keeps the transmission pretty cool as well around 155F..(no extra cooling module at lest i did not see any)

79jasper said:

If not going electric fans, I would go with a different fan clutch. When replacing one at work, they asked a/c? Severe duty? This was a 2500 gas engine. Maybe you got a light duty version?
Personally, I would just go electric fans.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I have tried searching for electric fans but was only able to find the one kit that I previously mentioned that is no longer available. I've spent literally hours searching Google for something that is drop-in. This is the kit that I found that is no longer available: https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/L300090607.pdf - I have also installed a severe duty fan clutch.

mikeyss said:

Have you ever hooked up a tech2 or any scanning device to make sure the gauge is reading correctly? The tech2 will tell you the exact temp of the engine, I believe the gauge is more of a dummy gauge and not accurate.

Click to expand...

I have ScanGauge with all of the GM Enhancements because I was doing some work for my brother on one of his trucks with a 454 that we needed to set the timing on and it had to be done via the computer so we bought the software and USB to OBD module. I have used this software on my Yukon and the temp is definitely climbing at idle. Even the AC compressor shuts off when it gets too hot at idle so if the ECM is accurate then that is what is causing the AC to shut off until the engine coolant drops back down. I also had it at the dealer at one point and they "said" they plugged a Tech2 into but ultimately the truck was sitting inside the dealers shop so the temp didn't climb. The truck cannot just be started when cooled down and left idling to see the temp creep, it has to be driven. Otherwise, it will idle for over an hour with no indication of the temp creeping. I have also installed a severe duty fan clutch.

Foggy said:

Second on the gauge issue.. The 5.3 and 6.2 L engines read at 210* anywhere
between 180* and 220* .. So it's only a bit better than a dummy gauge..
You need to read it with some type of scanner and see what the actual ECM sees as
the temp.. Your coolant temp sensor could also be bad.
IF you haven't replaced the fan clutch yet.. Do so with a good quality aftermarket
clutch. You Still need to test the cooling system with a pressure kit.. You can even
buy one for less than $75 , so quit just throwing parts at it.

There are several companies that make a nice bolt in electric fan module for
your 2500 6.0L. Just do a google search.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't mind trying to find a cooler thermostat for this truck but unfortunately, I have not been able to find one for the 6.0L. Not sure why considering it's a common engine for people to build race engines out of from my understanding and I would expect them to run a cooler thermostat. I have replaced the temp sensor but that didn't seem to help any. I just replaced the water pump again and drove it yesterday (108* outside) and it did better than what it normally does but it still creeps. At this point, I am thinking about just hard wiring a fan or two with relays. I have also installed a severe duty fan clutch.

millerladam said:

I have tried searching for electric fans but was only able to find the one kit that I previously mentioned that is no longer available. I've spent literally hours searching Google for something that is drop-in. This is the kit that I found that is no longer available: https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/L300090607.pdf - I have also installed a severe duty fan clutch.



I have ScanGauge with all of the GM Enhancements because I was doing some work for my brother on one of his trucks with a 454 that we needed to set the timing on and it had to be done via the computer so we bought the software and USB to OBD module. I have used this software on my Yukon and the temp is definitely climbing at idle. Even the AC compressor shuts off when it gets too hot at idle so if the ECM is accurate then that is what is causing the AC to shut off until the engine coolant drops back down. I also had it at the dealer at one point and they "said" they plugged a Tech2 into but ultimately the truck was sitting inside the dealers shop so the temp didn't climb. The truck cannot just be started when cooled down and left idling to see the temp creep, it has to be driven. Otherwise, it will idle for over an hour with no indication of the temp creeping. I have also installed a severe duty fan clutch.



I wouldn't mind trying to find a cooler thermostat for this truck but unfortunately, I have not been able to find one for the 6.0L. Not sure why considering it's a common engine for people to build race engines out of from my understanding and I would expect them to run a cooler thermostat. I have replaced the temp sensor but that didn't seem to help any. I just replaced the water pump again and drove it yesterday (108* outside) and it did better than what it normally does but it still creeps. At this point, I am thinking about just hard wiring a fan or two with relays. I have also installed a severe duty fan clutch.

Click to expand...

go to a junk yard and get a electric fan set..
ACDELCO 131160
190F/
87.5 C
is the factory Thermostat


according to my OBD live stream it runs at 95-97C engine temp

you did replace the coolant temp on the engine block right?

another thing is your water pump could be shot. i.e broken fin(s) and not moving coolant

One other guess I have is that the cooling system is working as it's supposed to, but the 108* degrees you live in may be too much. At that temperature outside, I imagine there's only so much the cooling system can do with 108 degree air passing over the radiator, haha.

mikeyss said:

One other guess I have is that the cooling system is working as it's supposed to, but the 108* degrees you live in may be too much. At that temperature outside, I imagine there's only so much the cooling system can do with 108 degree air passing over the radiator, haha.

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it's going to be 107 on sunday i'll drive it around


I think his radiator is clogged with bugs come back after you clean it with a toothbrush

millerladam said:

I wouldn't mind trying to find a cooler thermostat for this truck but unfortunately, I have not been able to find one for the 6.0L.

Click to expand...

Found this with about 2 minutes of googling;

https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/LPE Thermostats List.pdf

L310065307

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L310065307.html

i'm willing to bet the water cooling pump is shot see what it says on a scanner it should be 89-93C ECT _sensor on the cold side at 105F outdoor temp




if it's close to 70c or less then you would get a Check engine light.. for not warming up or it's overheating i.e not enough hot coolant is getting to the radiator which means your T-stat is not working


there is two sensors one on the engine block (the one that is on the cluster)and one on the radiator which is shown on the OBD reader

millerladam said:

Bump... Anymore input?

Click to expand...

Put a new water pump in. They are known to lose efficiency...