Bi-Color LED Switchback Turn Signal DRLs

[vt_hokie2008]

To achieve the look from the video that I posted previously here is what you will need, ** note this setup does require the driver to manually turn the running lights on (turn your light switch 1 notch clockwise - same for turning them off)

4 switchback leds
4 load resisters
2 bulb sockets
2 small pieces of wood

I will include links to the needed materials at the bottom

With the new bulb socket, splice into the existing turn signal wiring (not the drl wiring) when splicing into the turn signal wiring make sure to add in the load resisters otherwise the led will blink really fast. Also add the load resisters to the existing turn signal wiring. The resisters need to interrupt the positive feed to the bulb, this is easily found with a volt meter. You can then cut out the drl wiring and cover the ends so there are no wires shorting out. The new socket does not fit very easy but with some force it will fit and be sealed. If you do cut the drl wiring make sure you connect the grounds together because this is in a series. Once everything is wired insert the bulbs and check the lights to make sure everything works. Glue the thin wood pieces to the back of the housing, this is where you will mount the load resisters, if not mounted on wood they will melt the housing. The diagram that is uploaded May be confusing so if you have questions just ask.

Also I am explaining this from memory so don't mind the jumping around.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5447pt

http://m.ebay.com/itm/111038976835?cmd=VIDESC

This is just a quick write up from my phone

Are 4 resistors necessary since the two bulbs are sharing one circuit? I would think one resistor would do the trick to stop hyperflashing, but I assume you tried that?

 

[Labman2012]

Are 4 resistors necessary since the two bulbs are sharing one circuit? I would think one resistor would do the trick to stop hyperflashing, but I assume you tried that?

One resister will work but if you have to have your hazards on for any length of time at all the one resister will get really hot. I turn the turn signal on with one resister and within 10 seconds it was over 150 degrees

 

[vt_hokie2008]

One resister will work but if you have to have your hazards on for any length of time at all the one resister will get really hot. I turn the turn signal on with one resister and within 10 seconds it was over 150 degrees

Makes sense. Did the 4 get hot eventually too? I might have to order some switchbacks soon and get to work on this

 

[Labman2012]

They will all get hot since heat is the output of the absorbed energy. But four seemed just fine, once I find the link to the ones I had I will post it.

 

[vt_hokie2008]

I have these: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/LED-Resistor
6 ohm, 30w

 

[jebt2921]

Here is a wiring diagram that we're thinking. Main point being the addition of a diode. Has anyone tried this setup yet?

 

[jebt2921]

Pretty confident this setup will allow for them to come on automatically. Basically during the day they will act as the normal DRL when they come on automatically. The diode in front of the DRL won't allow any back feed. During the night, they will act like the normal parking lights that come on when the headlights come on. The diode in front of the parking lights won't allow any back feed during when they are being the used portion.

 

[vt_hokie2008]

Pretty confident this setup will allow for them to come on automatically. Basically during the day they will act as the normal DRL when they come on automatically. The diode in front of the DRL won't allow any back feed. During the night, they will act like the normal parking lights that come on when the headlights come on. The diode in front of the parking lights won't allow any back feed during when they are being the used portion.

But this still relies on the switchbacks doing the work to cut off the white when the orange flashes. I hope this to be the case, but what if the white stays on with the DRL as the orange flashes for the signal?

 

[jebt2921]

Yeah I hear what you're saying. There are two kinda of switchback:

AO - amber off amber off
AW - amber white amber white

You want to make sure you're using the AO so that when the turn signals are engaged it won't flash white whatsoever, it just goes off in between the amber color.

I want to say that's all there is to it.

But this still relies on the switchbacks doing the work to cut off the white when the orange flashes. I hope this to be the case, but what if the white stays on with the DRL as the orange flashes for the signal?

 

[vt_hokie2008]

Yeah I hear what you're saying. There are two kinda of switchback:

AO - amber off amber off
AW - amber white amber white

You want to make sure you're using the AO so that when the turn signals are engaged it won't flash white whatsoever, it just goes off in between the amber color.

I want to say that's all there is to it.

Let's hope so. So who's going to try this first?

 

[jebt2921]

Haha. I ordered four switchback's just now with resistors and should get them mid next week. I'd like to install them next weekend but I'll have to see what i've got going on....

 

[vt_hokie2008]

Haha. I ordered four switchback's just now with resistors and should get them mid next week. I'd like to install them next weekend but I'll have to see what i've got going on....

Where did you order from?

I have these sockets already: http://tinyurl.com/pwts9fq
They seem to be pretty good quality at least

 

[jebt2921]

Well I'd hate to admit it but I ordered off ebay. I just couldn't make myself pay $150 for some off of VLEDS. I have been looking for hours over the past week to make sure I get quality and the correct ones. It could bite me in the ass but I think they are nice quality from the research I did. Paid about $65 for four of them including resistors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251095545987?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'm still debating on my headlights so I'd like to spend more there. Looking at doing the projectors. Do yours have much bleeding and blinding of the oncoming traffic without using projectors?

 

[vt_hokie2008]

Well I'd hate to admit it but I ordered off ebay. I just couldn't make myself pay $150 for some off of VLEDS. I have been looking for hours over the past week to make sure I get quality and the correct ones. It could bite me in the ass but I think they are nice quality from the research I did. Paid about $65 for four of them including resistors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251095545987?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'm still debating on my headlights so I'd like to spend more there. Looking at doing the projectors. Do yours have much bleeding and blinding of the oncoming traffic without using projectors?

They definitely scatter, but I have mine aimed down a bit. My wife told me they weren't bad at all when she's met me on the road, but projectors will obviously give you better light output.

Honestly some of the most blinding light I've met on the road were projectors on Acuras, which happens to be what my wife drives haha

 

[jebt2921]

Yeah that's true. And also the kids that have 12000k bulbs in their fast n furious hondas

 

[vt_hokie2008]

Well I'd hate to admit it but I ordered off ebay. I just couldn't make myself pay $150 for some off of VLEDS. I have been looking for hours over the past week to make sure I get quality and the correct ones. It could bite me in the ass but I think they are nice quality from the research I did. Paid about $65 for four of them including resistors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251095545987?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'm still debating on my headlights so I'd like to spend more there. Looking at doing the projectors. Do yours have much bleeding and blinding of the oncoming traffic without using projectors?

I hope the ebay ones work out for you. I went cheap once and had to replace them after a couple of months. They seemed to work fine, but would just turn off and not work again until I restarted the vehicle after they blinked 5 or 6 times while signaling.

The good news is you can do the HID kit now and then reuse the ballasts and bulbs (probably the bulbs, not guaranteed) later in projectors.

 

[Labman2012]

The link that I posted were good quality eBay leds that are the correct ones I think they were $40 for 4 of them

 

[jebt2921]

I went through that link but that seller wasn't selling those exact ones anymore. They did have some others but they were asking ridiculous price for them. Did you happen to see my wiring guide using the diodes? Have you tried that before?

---------- Post added at 02:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:29 PM ----------

I'll let you know how they are when I get them.

daaaaaaamn....I'm really wanting to do a projector retrofit now too. The Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) is what I'm looking at, but I'm a bit scared to dive into a project like that since I'll basically be without headlights for however long it takes and I've never done it before..

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=227

 

[vt_hokie2008]

I went through that link but that seller wasn't selling those exact ones anymore. They did have some others but they were asking ridiculous price for them. Did you happen to see my wiring guide using the diodes? Have you tried that before?

---------- Post added at 02:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:29 PM ----------

I'll let you know how they are when I get them.

daaaaaaamn....I'm really wanting to do a projector retrofit now too. The Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) is what I'm looking at, but I'm a bit scared to dive into a project like that since I'll basically be without headlights for however long it takes and I've never done it before..

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=227

Opening the OEM headlights is supposed to be pretty much impossible too, so you have to buy an aftermarket set to open up.

 

[jebt2921]

yeah...may shop around and pay a reputable shop listed on TRS to do it...