Dealership said my hub bearing is starting to go

[mattjones]

Had my Tahoe in for service at the dealership yesterday and probably overpaid. I originally had it in for a small leak and a squeak coming from my front driver-side wheel (all the time, not just when braking). The leak ended up being a non-issue and the squeak was due to a small crack in the rotor. They did a full break job with new pads and rotors for $470.

However, they also said that one of my hub bearings is starting to go back and recommended I get it fixed for $600+, which I declined. I really don't know anything about the hub bearings. Does $600 seem too expensive? Is it something I can replace myself? Anyone have any experience with them?

EDIT: Just remembered, they also recommended I replace the serpentine belt. I declined because it seemed too expensive and I think I've still got some time left before it really needs replacement. I'll definitely get it done soon, but I'd like to make sure I get a decent price first. That being said, what's a decent price for serpentine replacement?

 

[fiatdale]

The GM part itself is around $425 retail, so for them to do it for $600 really isn't too far off. You can buy an aftermarket from autozone or something for around $250 ish if you wanted to go that route.

It's not hard to replace. Once the wheel, caliper and rotor are off its just three 13mm bolts on the backside of the spindle holding it on. If its 4wd, you'll also need to remove the 36mm nut on the axle.

The GM bearings are far superior to the aftermarket ones though, so if you can afford it, I would get the GM part and fix yourself.

 

[UcanthavemyYukon]

Hi mattjones, if the dealer is telling you your hub bearings are going, you might want to get them fixed. If your truck is dealer serviced, its probably the best way to go although dealer servicing is more expensive than mechanic shops. The possibility of your entire axle coming apart is the result of bad bearings on your vehicle. Of course, that is worse case scenario. As far as the serpentine belt is concerned, no problem there. This belt only controls the power steering, the alternator, the air conditioning, the cooling system, yah no worries. Its a inexpensive belt that you can replace yourself if you have a torque wrench (I generally use a socket wrench) to grab the tention pulley to set the belt. You may need a spare pair of hands to do this. Your truck has a diagram of how the belt is set on the base of your radiator cover after you raise the hood. Hope this helps.

 

[mattjones]

The GM part itself is around $425 retail, so for them to do it for $600 really isn't too far off. You can buy an aftermarket from autozone or something for around $250 ish if you wanted to go that route.

It's not hard to replace. Once the wheel, caliper and rotor are off its just three 13mm bolts on the backside of the spindle holding it on. If its 4wd, you'll also need to remove the 36mm nut on the axle.

The GM bearings are far superior to the aftermarket ones though, so if you can afford it, I would get the GM part and fix yourself.

Thanks for the input. Out of curiosity, is there a way to tell when it starts to get worse? Such as an audible sound or something? The reason I ask is because I would have had no idea there was an issue with it if I hadn't gotten the truck into the dealer for a separate issue.

 

[UcanthavemyYukon]

Thanks for the input. Out of curiosity, is there a way to tell when it starts to get worse? Such as an audible sound or something? The reason I ask is because I would have had no idea there was an issue with it if I hadn't gotten the truck into the dealer for a separate issue.

Over time the bearings would wear out and that would cause a grinding sound. They could also cause a fire because of metal parts becoming exposed. But your tahoe should have sensors which would alert you from the DIC of a problem. But the last thing you want is for that awful sound because its only a matter of time before that wheel or that axle gives.

 

[k9lovr]

Just had a hub replaced after a total failure....you will know when it is getting worse as said it will start to make a noticeable grinding noise and when it fails....the dash will light up with Stability control, ABS, Traction Control, etc lights on....I will be replacing the other soon as well as it is starting to wear......

 

[imi4tth3w]

to check your hubs, lift the vehicle in the air and hold the tire at 12 and 6 oclock positions and check for any play. if there is play, you need to replace your hub.

you can get timken hubs for under $125 all day long on amazon/rockauto and they are FAR superior to even the gm/acdelco wheel bearing.

serpentine belt is a SUPER easy replacement. under $30 for ac delco and a 15mm socket and a breaker bar to hold down the tensioner to remove and replace.

 

[scottg918514]

Ac Delco is GM house brand, $200+ online. Also IMO a hub or wheel bearing is either good or bad. Not "starting to go". How do they define that? If you replace, you should do in pairs.

 

[sumo]

my FL got so bad that it was like leaving the lugs loose. Low speeds there was a wobble and when it did it would push in the Caliper so when i brake, i had to pump the brake pedal to get brakes back. To replace the hub is easy, mine the rotor siezed to the hub and had to replace the rotor too.

 

[livingez_123]

I put a pair of Timken hubs on mine. One was bad so I did them both. I figured the other side wasn't too far behind.

 

[mattjones]

Ac Delco is GM house brand, $200+ online. Also IMO a hub or wheel bearing is either good or bad. Not "starting to go". How do they define that? If you replace, you should do in pairs.

Just found this thread again and figured I'd bump with a two-years-later update.

So apparently the dealer was just completely full of shit. Based on what everyone was saying here I decided to wait it out and see if I ever had any ACTUAL symptoms of a bad hub besides a dealership saying "pls give us $600."

Well, I never replaced it and it's been over two years and probably 20-30k miles. I guess the hub wasn't actually "going bad."

 

[Erik G]

Just found this thread again and figured I'd bump with a two-years-later update.

So apparently the dealer was just completely full of shit. Based on what everyone was saying here I decided to wait it out and see if I ever had any ACTUAL symptoms of a bad hub besides a dealership saying "pls give us $600."

Well, I never replaced it and it's been over two years and probably 20-30k miles. I guess the hub wasn't actually "going bad."

Like was said before, the check for this is to jack the truck up, grab the wheel at 12 and 6, and wiggle. If there is any play at all, the hub assembly needs replaced. They do get worse over time. if you grab at 9 and 3 and wiggle, any play is tie rod related

this is a very very common issue with all GM full size trucks and full size SUV's. Timken from Napa or AutoZone is the preferred part. do not buy cheap ones, they will fail in a year. It's easy, I've had to do it on all of my GM trucks at about 90 to 100K

 

[2007tahoe]

Like was said before, the check for this is to jack the truck up, grab the wheel at 12 and 6, and wiggle. If there is any play at all, the hub assembly needs replaced. They do get worse over time. if you grab at 9 and 3 and wiggle, any play is tie rod related

this is a very very common issue with all GM full size trucks and full size SUV's. Timken from Napa or AutoZone is the preferred part. do not buy cheap ones, they will fail in a year. It's easy, I've had to do it on all of my GM trucks at about 90 to 100K

With a sealed bearing on newer cars like this one, checking for play like this usually does not help. If you actually have play in it, its prob been making nose for a very long time. You can not always jack it up and put it in gear to hear s bad bearing ether because then you do not have a load on the bearing so prob not going to make noise. Yes Timken is the only bearing i would buy for anything. kind of a funny story because the dealer told my friend his 2008 silverado needed a wheel bearing, that was over 150k ago and still never been changed. An aggressive tire or one not wearing correctly will sound just like a bearing.

 

[mattjones]

With a sealed bearing on newer cars like this one, checking for play like this usually does not help. If you actually have play in it, its prob been making nose for a very long time. You can not always jack it up and put it in gear to hear s bad bearing ether because then you do not have a load on the bearing so prob not going to make noise. Yes Timken is the only bearing i would buy for anything. kind of a funny story because the dealer told my friend his 2008 silverado needed a wheel bearing, that was over 150k ago and still never been changed. An aggressive tire or one not wearing correctly will sound just like a bearing.

Yeah from what I remember I was getting the front brakes replaced because they had started squeaking. I think the dealer just saw it as an opportunity to try to squeeze an extra 600 bucks out of me.

 

[rook]

I change my own brakes, rotate tires, and take the opportunity to check the bearings when I change brakes - you can feel any play, hear any noise, etc. having owned an AWD Audi at one time and working on a motorcycle more recently has made me a little more aware of hub bearings... No fun when they do go... They usually fail quickly after giving a little "heads up".


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[wildmanjr1980]

Bearings are twitchy on their last leg. I drive a Yukon xl and when mine went out I had been driving about two hours, no symptoms, then parked at walmart for about 20 minutes, I guess that break was long enough to seize the molten parts together and cool because when I went to back out of the parking spot, I heard a pop and felt the ride height drop with the sag of the bearing busting. Then stabilitrak and traction control lights came on and the rubbing sound was awful. I now feel for heat on my wheels after every trip. Paranoid.

 

[Erik G]

yours sound like they were already long gone

As long as you replace with quality timken, you will be fine. The autozone ones though - 20k miles and they will fail

Just my opinion.

 

[rook]

I put a pair of Timken hubs on mine. One was bad so I did them both. I figured the other side wasn't too far behind.

Did the same thing, also used Timken. Not hard. Take the wheel off, take the rotor off, turn the wheel and listen. If you hear bad things, you should probably consider replacing the hub. They go bad, it's not hard to replace. I check mine on all of my cars (had Audi's, Suzuki AWD's, 'burb K2500, now Denali) every time I do a brake job - because the rotor comes right off. My K2500 isn't so easy... You don't want one to go out - I know from experience, when they go out completely, you feel money exiting your wallet and your weekend plans go out the the window...