Trying to decide the next step...

[ZRated]

Replaced both my front hub assemblies in June and with brand new tires. Here we are in November and only 5k miles and I am getting the loud droning noise again from the front (I think). This time it acts a little different which is throwing me off here.... Just fyi, the front left bearing before only lasted 5k as well and I bought a single one to replace it (different brand) as I didn't feel I needed to do both again... Now the noise is back....

So before, I got the deep and droning "wah-wah-wah-wah" noise like a bearing. Only it got louder and went with the RPM of the tires. It also would go away going around highway bends to the right at about 60mph. It was the hub bearing. However this time, it doesn't go away around corners...I am not sure if this is a rule every time but it is the same droning "wah..wah...wah" noise. It starts low at about 25mph and I can actually feel it a little in the floor with my foot, and has this spot between 30mph and 40mph where you almost don't hear anything at all. Then, about 45mph up to around 55mph it is very loud. At highway speeds I can't really hear it as the pitch matches my actual tire road noise.

I had the transfer case rebuilt a year ago and honestly have not used the 4WD at all (I got suckered into the $1500 rebuild over that hub bearing noise initially). Every couple months I cycle the 4WD through the modes to get the "juices flowing" and usually run it in low or high going to gas station outside my neighborhood there and back. I can't imagine this would be the issue. The hub bearings seem to be an issue getting quality parts.. I have replaced more hub assemblies in the last 4yrs than anything else. I torque them down to spec etc and it always seems to be the driver front....again...this time it isn't changing pitch or intensity when going around corners...It is constant.

Anyone have any suggestions? I have one spare hub assembly and I can do them fast...Thinking maybe to go with this...but also don't want to waste the other one I just put in 5k miles ago. This set was $300 as I paid the top price compared to the others (last set I got that also only lasted 5k miles was $100 for a set).

 

[petethepug]

07 Tahoe LT 4WD.

Oh buoy, that’ll drive ya nuts. If there’s only 5k on both the hubs, I hope there’s a warranty for you.

On our 09 AWD lost a front hub @ 140k mi when I got it in ‘14. No issues with the generic replacement from Kragen since then.

This year at 185k mi the front end was 100% rebuilt and SKF # BR930661 xtracker hubs were used. I hoped with the $149 price and reengineered taper bearing they’ll do their thing. No issues so far.

Careful, over torque or an impact on the install will short life the hubs.

 

[j91z28d1]

I had a hub bearing go. it didn't sound like any bearing I've ever heard, I did all the normal checks. listen to the spring while spinning the wheel, look for play. was worried it was something else major. odd buzzing sound that started around 30 and went away around 70. no change when turning the wheel.

I ended up using it as a justification to order a mechanics ear setup. clipped them on the front on both sides, went for a drive and it was very obvious it was the right front wheel bearing. i even had the side wrong, I was checking both but would have swarn it was the left front.

end of the day, one new hub and it was gone.

for your history I'd say replace the bearing again, if it's not bad. put the used one on the shelf as a known good test hub. or use it as a reason to buy the mechanics ear. I try to convince myself it saved me from buying more parts haha.

 

[ZRated]

Yeah, just swapped out the hub assembly and the noise is still there. I'm now looking at the next option. It's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from but I can feel it in the floor board at the lower speeds of 25mph. I don't have any leaks around the seals on things so I guess my next option are the axles or the front diff bearings themselves.

 

[j91z28d1]

that's not good. sadly you can't rule out the diff they rebuild either a 100%
could it be drive shaft u joints?

I picked up these looking for my noise.. pricey it they have been useful.

https://a.co/d/eGBiRlQ

basically you clip at least 2 of them. on stuff, go for a drive and switch from one to the other to narrow it down to what's loudest.

hopefully someone else as a common issue to check. oh, what type transfer case do you have? does it have "Auto" setting? if so I found mine makes noise in auto, but not in 2wd. it accidentally got moved to auto and I wondered what that sound was for a while. mine didn't vibrate thou.

 

[ZRated]

that's not good. sadly you can't rule out the diff they rebuild either a 100%
could it be drive shaft u joints?

I picked up these looking for my noise.. pricey it they have been useful.

https://a.co/d/eGBiRlQ

basically you clip at least 2 of them. on stuff, go for a drive and switch from one to the other to narrow it down to what's loudest.

hopefully someone else as a common issue to check. oh, what type transfer case do you have? does it have "Auto" setting? if so I found mine makes noise in auto, but not in 2wd. it accidentally got moved to auto and I wondered what that sound was for a while. mine didn't vibrate thou.

Appreciate it. Well, my 4WD has been faulty for over 5yrs. Sometimes the light comes on on the dial and shows it in 2WD but only for a couple days and then it's off and I get the Service 4WD error. I have replaced or re-done every ground cable, replaced the TCM module, toned out and ohm checked every wire to and from the TCCM to wherever....It is getting 12v to the TCCM but that selector dial is dead (replaced also) and sometimes at random every few months I it suddenly on and I can cycle the 4WD modes.

The strange part of it all..... When I start the vehicle the dial is dead....but the second I put it in reverse or drive and a little gas...the dial "boots up".. Like there is a short somewhere or a bad capacitor...Then some days (months) it's dead completely... I have not been able to find the TCCM under the number I pulled out... and I still am not sure what the problem truly is. I was just told that the front wheels should free spin....yet when spinning them by hand as fast as I can....they only go maybe one rotation and stop after letting go. Friend said it may be stuck in 4WD but not sure. I just know that I am exhausted with trying to get this thing back to a check engine light off and 4WD working normal or humming noises etc not showing up every couple months. 265k on it now so I don't think she will be crisp ever again...

 

[Fless]

Why not put a good scanner on it when the Service 4WD error shows up? Find the C-code that is causing the Service message. Or have you already read the chassis code(s)?

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah, at this point it sounds like a China tech 2 and a shop manaul is needed.

when you changed the module, did it need flashed to the trucking using the acdelco site?

I does. kinda sound like it can't be good whatever is happening with it.

 

[ZRated]

Why not put a good scanner on it when the Service 4WD error shows up? Find the C-code that is causing the Service message. Or have you already read the chassis code(s)?

Appreciate replies from everyone thus far. Here is my current scan...and that TCCM I pulled out and can't seem to find a reman of.

 

[ZRated]

yeah, at this point it sounds like a China tech 2 and a shop manaul is needed.

when you changed the module, did it need flashed to the trucking using the acdelco site?

I does. kinda sound like it can't be good whatever is happening with it.

When I ordered the TCM he asked for my vin number and preprogrammed it. I didn't know I could do myself? Where is this site?

 

[Fless]

Below is the diagnostic path for that first code on what I think is your vehicle. Confirm vehicle prior to performing the diag.

P2771 — 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

 

[fredcook]

"Every couple months I cycle the 4WD through the modes to get the "juices flowing" and usually run it in low or high going to gas station outside my neighborhood there and back."

Yikes. Hopefully not on pavement. If so, have you checked your CV joints? A neighbor accidently drove their Tahoe in 4WD (left it in 4WD after an ice storm). One of their CV joints started howling. I came off a long offroad drive once and left mine in 4WD. I thought the front end was going to come out from underneath taking a turn. Driving these Tahoes in 4 high or low on pavement is not a good thing.

 

[ZRated]

Well, today or tomorrow I plan to take the motor off and check manually to see if it stuck in 4WD...I am very much thinking it is stuck in 4WD high and I've been on 80mph drives out of town....

 

[ZRated]

Well, here's the update...Maybe it will help in the future for someone else...

I've been wrestling with this 4WD issue for years... I've replaced nearly every electrical component involved with the 4WD system as well...and you know that saying "always go with your first instinct"?.. I should have. The issue was the TCCM (not to be confused with the TCM). You see, randomly that selector dial would boot up and everything would work as it should for a week or so...Then, it would be dead for a few months, then work. Cycle repeated for years but the time between working and not working grew longer. Usually when temps changed is when it would be on, especially when a cold front moved in (Oklahoma). Myself and others figured this to be a grounding issue somewhere as the cold contracts the wire. With have over 250k miles and a little corrosion here and there from the vehicle being from FL...I went full out replacing nearly every chassis ground I could find. Some, I replaced the whole wire. No change in the results. I replaced the TCM with no change and also had transfer case rebuilt, encoder motors, etc. When I replaced the encoder on the differential, the dial lit up (which I also replaced). The system worked for a few weeks and then it was off again. I was convinced this was a wiring issue somewhere... The one thing that was the hardest to find was the TCCM for my year.. Dealer told me it HAD to be one from 2007....I couldn't use one from 2008 etc.. That TCCM from dealer was $600 while one from a 2008 was only $340. At this point I decided I don't really use the 4WD anymore now that I don't drive out to oil fields on service calls, which was when I really used it anyway (those kids loved running those company trucks on the muddy road to the rig and digging the deepest rut they could)...

Well, with this other issue in the post...I found one at a junkyard for $85 and put it in...presto. Everything works perfectly fine and haven't programmed it. The droning sound under my feet is still there but not quite as loud. I think I was stuck in 4WD and burned up some bearings....Just don't know if it's from the newly rebuilt transfer case or the front diff... I know I can feel the "waah waah waah" low droning noise in the floorboard right where the pedals are so....The damage has been done...However, the 4WD now working eliminates 1 of 2 codes that has kept the check engine light on for 3yrs at least.. The other is the oil pressure being at zero. I replaced the sensor on back of intake years ago and I know the screen got clogged not long after when I ran some seafoam through the engine...So, I will check it again and then onto the tube in the oil pan (sigh).. Would be awesome to have my remote start and everything functioning normal again....

 

[petethepug]

Here’s an interesting point of failure for front hubs …

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