OR VietVet Is Still Throwing $$$ at 2005 Z71

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OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
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The alt pulleys look a bit different, but maybe that's just the larger edge lip on the new one or the way it was machined. You didn't happen to measure the pulley diameters to compare, did you? Just curious about it.
Just measured at the outer diameter of the belt grooves and it is 57mm and the spots on the tensioner are also matched for before and after. The front of the two pulleys look a little different.
 
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The alt pulleys look a bit different, but maybe that's just the larger edge lip on the new one or the way it was machined. You didn't happen to measure the pulley diameters to compare, did you? Just curious about it.
Yea, if you look at the very first pic and the next to last pic, you will see the tension notches on the tensioner and see that they are the same with the old and new alternator.
 
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The truck is at the shop right now, getting the transmission's hard downshift fixed. I'll send pics, when I get the truck back.

I do have this pic that only shows the protected cables going across the firewall.

View attachment 488282
Any luck yet for info/pics of needed cables and disconnects for my second battery add on?

Any other members have info/recommendations?
 
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Any luck yet for info/pics of needed cables and disconnects for my second battery add on?

Any other members have info/recommendations?
So, I decided to take some steps and see what is the best plan of action for the cables set up.

1. Should I run the positive cable from the second battery, with a disconnect close to the second battery, and attach at the battery cable red block at the threaded stud in the pic or run under the under hood fuse/relay box, where one of the battery cables from the positive of the primary battery disappears and is likely at the other end of the RED B+ fuse, in the pic?

2. Then run the negative cable from the second battery and ground at the engine block all the way over to the d/s or a good ground spot on the p/s?

3. I would use flexible protective convoluted tubing on all the cables.

20260702_110820.jpg
20260702_111301.jpg
 
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From the pics I see, it looks like your disconnect disables the positive and the negative at same time. I get it, I do. I initially thought you were saying a disconnect, only on the positive cable.

With this disconnect set up, what did you use to install the cable lugs, to crimp them on to the bare cable ends? What gauge cable used?

Last question for now: When do you decide to actually plug in/connect the cables for charging purposes?

1783020405138.png
 
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89Suburban

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From the pics I see, it looks like your disconnect disables the positive and the negative at same time. I get it, I do. I initially thought you were saying a disconnect, only on the positive cable.

With this disconnect set up, what did you use to install the cable lugs, to crimp them on to the bare cable ends? What gauge cable used?

Last question for now: When do you decide to actually plug in/connect the cables for charging purposes?

View attachment 488625
I have one of these. but it's only good to use on a workbench, no under hood. Unless you really a redneck haha.


 
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I have one of these. but it's only good to use on a workbench, no under hood. Unless you really a redneck haha.



My customer bought one of these so I could do the work. I told her I was not gonna buy it for just one use. So, she bought it and gifted to me.
 

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Any luck yet for info/pics of needed cables and disconnects for my second battery add on?

Any other members have info/recommendations?
I JUST got my truck back an hour ago. :chair:

Yes, the quick disconnect does disconnect both the positive and negative wires, thus taking the second battery completely off the truck's grid when disconnected. To me, that is a safety feature.

My second battery was a side post battery, so I connected the cables to it accordingly.

Second battery side post connections.jpg


I connected the positive cable of the second battery to the same post on the master fuse block on the passenger side firewall (before the fuse) as the positive cable from the primary battery.

Positive terminal.jpg


I connected the second battery to the same stud on the block just ahead of the passenger side valve cover as the primary battery.

Negative ground.jpg


The quick disconnect is located near the driver side firewall, just under the brace by the hood hinge. The cables going from the second battery to the quick disconnect are laying between the main fuse box and the inside of the engine bay next to the front left quarterpanel.

Quick Disconnect Location.jpg
 
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I JUST got my truck back an hour ago. :chair:

Yes, the quick disconnect does disconnect both the positive and negative wires, thus taking the second battery completely off the truck's grid when disconnected To me, that is a safety feature.

My second battery was a side post battery, so I connected the cables to it accordingly.

View attachment 488640

I connected the positive cable of the second battery to the same post on the master fuse block on the passenger side firewall (before the fuse) as the positive cable from the primary battery.

View attachment 488641

I connected the second battery to the same stud on the block just ahead of the passenger side valve cover as the primary battery.

View attachment 488642

The quick disconnect is located near the driver side firewall, just under the brace by the hood hinge. The cables going from the second battery to the quick disconnect are laying between the main fuse box and the inside of the engine bay next to the front left quarterpanel.

View attachment 488643
Great, thanks.
 
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My plan is to run the negative cable from the disconnect to the d/s of the engine, toward the front, and ground eyelet to the same as I have already. Right in the middle of the 2 pics. The other main ground comes off the negative side of battery and is inside the convoluted tubing and runs right next to the p/s pump reservoir and does a down turn and disappears.

20260702_172212.jpg
20260702_172421.jpg
 
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So, I do not have a positive fuse block cable connection at the p/s firewall. I believe that red snap close box is a good place to attach the positive battery cable. The other choice for positive cable connection would be at where the small convoluted tubing covered cable snakes down from the positive cable connection at the battery and disappears under the front engine side corner of the bottom of the under hood fuse/relay box. See pics. The small positive cable I am talking about is the positive one closest to the battery casing.

20260702_110820.jpg
20260702_172329.jpg
20260702_172453.jpg
20260702_172507.jpg
 
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Now, on to the battery. I did a dry run the other day and verified that an O'Reilly's Super Start 78 series battery will fit in the second battery try and the typical GM battery hold down block bolted right in and held the battery tight. The height is 7.25", width is 7.25" and length is 10 15/16". The O'Reilly's 78 series Super Start AGM height is 7.25", width is 6 7/8" and length is 10 3/4". Also at O'Reilly's, the Optima red AGM height is 7.25", width is 7 5/16" and the length is 1.75".

Because O'Reilly's are literally everywhere, I am leaning toward the Super Start AGM. But I am worried about the 3/8" difference in width. I know the flooded Super Start 78 series, at 7.25" width, is an exact fit, with the GM mount block tightened down. When I did the dry run fitment, I installed the block and was perfect.
 

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