The ultimate question. What would you do? Rebuild engine vs used?

[Ex Euro Driver]

2014 Yukon Denali. 207,000 miles. Just got a remanufactured transmission installed 2 weeks ago and today just started to get some misfire type shaking in the motor. No codes, no lights. Took it to the same mechanic that installed the tranny and he confirmed it’s a collapsing lifter. Here’s the question - Do I source a used motor with 90K-100K miles and have it installed? Or do I have the existing motor rebuilt? Both options are in the $9K-$10K range. Lastly, if I have the existing motor rebuilt, what do you recommend in the rebuild? Thanks in advance for the advice

 

[j91z28d1]

is there a solid tapping sound while running? if not it's not a lifter. tons of other things can cause a miss.

200k isn't a lot for this motor to need a rebuild, but it is a lot for the afm valve train stuff. you can do a afm delete kit for way less than rebuilding an engine and then as long as it's had decent maintenance, it should go 300k pretty easily.

 

[Ex Euro Driver]

is there a solid tapping sound while running? if not it's not a lifter. tons of other things can cause a miss.

200k isn't a lot for this motor to need a rebuild, but it is a lot for the afm valve train stuff. you can do a afm delete kit for way less than rebuilding an engine and then as long as it's had decent maintenance, it should go 300k

Definitely a collapsed lifter. Confirmed on #6 cylinder. Going with a long block and swapping over motor accessories.

 

[CMoore711]

A long block…. Just a stock 6.2 L94? Are you leaving in the AFM components?

 

[Ex Euro Driver]

Yep, L94. Will be ordering with non AFM components. Decided against buying a new truck so I’ll need 150K more miles out of this truck. Just did the tranny 4 weeks ago. When it rains it pours…

 

[LsHart]

Short thread!

 

[OR VietVet]

May be correct diagnosis but no code(s) is weird. How was it confirmed on #6 cylinder?

 

[Ex Euro Driver]

May be correct diagnosis but no code(s) is weird. How was it confirmed on #6 cylinder?

Mechanic said the same thing. He pulled the valve cover on the ticking side and confirmed. It still “kind of” functions but I’m certainly on borrowed time.

 

[OR VietVet]

What about doing a set of lifters? At 207k miles, that is kind of a lot of work for that many miles. Decisions.....

 

[swathdiver]

Definitely a collapsed lifter. Confirmed on #6 cylinder. Going with a long block and swapping over motor accessories.

You really only need to replace the lifters and camshaft and not spend $10K on a new motor.

However, if you want to take her to 350K, then the long block is not a bad idea, make sure it has an L9H camshaft (non AFM) or aftermarket and not some wimp or bad grind that will rob you of power.

Make sure it has good pistons and new rings and bearings if a reman.

 

[Doubeleive]

I don't know what leads you to both options being 9-10k that's not computing......
a used l94 is about $4k + plus labor, cash talks you might be able to work that down a smidge
a reman is around $5500 w/warranty 3yrs standard, 5yrs for $249, 7yrs for $499 you can turn any of those into a no fault warranty for another $299

 

[ivin74]

2014 Yukon Denali. 207,000 miles. Just got a remanufactured transmission installed 2 weeks ago and today just started to get some misfire type shaking in the motor. No codes, no lights. Took it to the same mechanic that installed the tranny and he confirmed it’s a collapsing lifter. Here’s the question - Do I source a used motor with 90K-100K miles and have it installed? Or do I have the existing motor rebuilt? Both options are in the $9K-$10K range. Lastly, if I have the existing motor rebuilt, what do you recommend in the rebuild? Thanks in advance for the advice

Replacing the lifters is like $2k. I've seen these engines go up to 400k miles.

 

[Ex Euro Driver]

You really only need to replace the lifters and camshaft and not spend $10K on a new motor.

However, if you want to take her to 350K, then the long block is not a bad idea, make sure it has an L9H camshaft (non AFM) or aftermarket and not some wimp or bad grind that will rob you of power.

Make sure it has good pistons and new rings and bearings if a reman.

This was my thinking. I need another 150K miles or more out of the truck so that’s why I lean towards a long block. Can’t take the chance and “hope” stock pistons/rings go 350K+

 

[Ex Euro Driver]

I don't know what leads you to both options being 9-10k that's not computing......
a used l94 is about $4k + plus labor, cash talks you might be able to work that down a smidge
a reman is around $5500 w/warranty 3yrs standard, 5yrs for $249, 7yrs for $499 you can turn any of those into a no fault warranty for another $299

Used engine $4000 and then another $5000 to install. Long block is $1000-$1500 more. Doing just lifters at this point doesn’t make sense as I’m planning on keeping the truck for years to come. Everybody says the motor is good to 350K but I’m not willing to gamble on internet guarantees

 

[Ex Euro Driver]

Replacing the lifters is like $2k. I've seen these engines go up to 400k miles.

Lifters might be $2K in Texas, however, there isn’t a shop around me (including Nevada where I’m having the work done) that’s cheaper than $200/hour

 

[Doubeleive]

Used engine $4000 and then another $5000 to install. Long block is $1000-$1500 more. Doing just lifters at this point doesn’t make sense as I’m planning on keeping the truck for years to come. Everybody says the motor is good to 350K but I’m not willing to gamble on internet guarantees

I would def shop around and ask different shops how much they charge to r&R, to me that's a bit on the high side

 

[Doubeleive]

including junk yards, some do both remove & replace and those guys are not getting paid $150 an hour

 

[OR VietVet]

I would def shop around and ask different shops how much they charge to r&R, to me that's a bit on the high side

Yea, $5000 to swap, at $200 an hour, is 25 hours. That is "doing it in a driveway on your back" hours. With a lift is faster. If fluids and additional resealing parts and other fees are included in that, it may be more legit.

 

[swathdiver]

This was my thinking. I need another 150K miles or more out of the truck so that’s why I lean towards a long block. Can’t take the chance and “hope” stock pistons/rings go 350K+

The trouble with used Gen IV 6.2s is not the engines themselves but the previous owners. Many folks ran these engines with low octane fuel and after about 100K or so miles the pistons and rings start giving way.

You could spend less putting in new rings and bearings yourself but that of course is dependent on your time, infrastructure, ability and tools.

 

[West 1]

My Neighbor who just moved in just had her 2018 5.3L repaired at a shop she just got this truck back 2 weeks ago. One stuck AFM lifter was her failure. $5500 and the shop was a friend of hers that gave her a great deal? She did get all new lifters, I don’t know if they did a new VLOM manifold, they should have.

The shop advised her to have both heads rebuilt since they were off? At 82K? That was wasted money. Her truck only had 82,000 miles on it.
I would have done the repair for her but we had just met and I was not comfortable jumping in. And it took the shop 5 weeks to get it done? I have done several of these working slow in less than 1 week if the heads do need rebuild that is normally a 1 week turn around at the shop? Full Rebuild on the heads was $700 in California.

At 200K I have done leak down tests on 2 6.2L engines to see about ring health. Both had 2-3% leakdowns at 200k. A new engine is good if it tests 2-3% on a leak down test.