Oil Change on new Tahoe

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PPK_

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This is kinda what I did with my Tahoe.
First oil change was at 1000 miles and then I had it changed at 3000.

I do every 4-5000 now depending on how much I tow and stop/start driving.
I don’t mind paying for oil change. Even if it is over kill I feel much better driving after these oil changes.

There are plenty who go with the long interval change at 7500 miles and have no issues but I would rather be safe and pay for the peace of mind.
Oil and filter… what is in the oil… not cleaned.. rings breaking in/ what is in the crankshaft after drilling/honing.. little by little is sucked / gets in the filter.. when the filter is full.. then you have the by-pass closed on the filter.. and no filter takes place..

On a gdi engine… i would not go past 5k. A fuel injection i would 7.5k. A lot of problems come from ash in screen filters in the engine/valve train.

If you are just keeping it for 36k.. then just run it.. otherwise change and filter much more…
 

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Vladimir2306

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Is there a benefit to running 0w40 over the 0w20?
someone says that there is, I don't see any advantages. I tried driving at 0-40. The oil consumption is the same, the oil pressure is slightly higher, but also not so much. I drive at 0-20
 

Vladimir2306

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Oil and filter… what is in the oil… not cleaned.. rings breaking in/ what is in the crankshaft after drilling/honing.. little by little is sucked / gets in the filter.. when the filter is full.. then you have the by-pass closed on the filter.. and no filter takes place..

On a gdi engine… i would not go past 5k. A fuel injection i would 7.5k. A lot of problems come from ash in screen filters in the engine/valve train.

If you are just keeping it for 36k.. then just run it.. otherwise change and filter much more…
I advise you to cut the filter with a knife or a special tool, rather than sawing. Then you won't have chips from the filter housing, which won't knock you down while searching for metal particles on the filter element.
 

PPK_

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I advise you to cut the filter with a knife or a special tool, rather than sawing. Then you won't have chips from the filter housing, which won't knock you down while searching for metal particles on the filter element.
I don't have a photo of the complete disassembly of the 5.3 500 mile filter... it was full of aluminum and other non metalic stuff. it is terrible for a new engine to have so much left over.. for the owner to clean out with mulitple fills.

Unless you take the time to pull the filter out.. tear out the filter membrane and check each plete in the filter to see what is in there...

This is my fourth GM V8... and it is the nastiest job of a "new" clean engine.. i do not know if they are cleaning the crank, the lifters or the rocker cams. it is terrible.

i have built a few motors.. clean clean clean. when i used to stop for lunch... i put a towel over the whole block. i did not want even a piece of dust in there...

i think GM has figured out how to build a motor.. with the least clean up - just get the 60k miles in. terrible.
 

BacDoc

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Oil and filter… what is in the oil… not cleaned.. rings breaking in/ what is in the crankshaft after drilling/honing.. little by little is sucked / gets in the filter.. when the filter is full.. then you have the by-pass closed on the filter.. and no filter takes place..

On a gdi engine… i would not go past 5k. A fuel injection i would 7.5k. A lot of problems come from ash in screen filters in the engine/valve train.

If you are just keeping it for 36k.. then just run it.. otherwise change and filter much more…
Yes, every oil change is filter too.
I don’t know why anyone would just change the oil unless it was impossible to get a filter!
 
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Skywagon

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To follow up on my original question....The dealer did a full service as part of the first free one. I asked for an kept the oil filter. I have a filter cutter than doesn't leave any metal. The filter showed no signs of metal after 5000 miles.
 

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