Eibach Front Springs Questions

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Down8

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PREAMBLE:
I am hoping to rebuild the entirety of my 235k Tahoe's suspension. I tossed in a 2" lower strut spacers, just to get the nose off the ground, and it was ugly under there. This seems to have been a well maintained truck, but 235k is 235k, so a lot needs refreshing. I already felt the need for shocks/struts, as it was somewhat jarring in driving (reminded me of my 2010 2500HD/Duramax with keys), and with windows down, lots of squeaks coming from under the front end (windows up: no noise). My end goal is 3-4" of front end lift, and maybe +1-2" in the rear via the Moog 81069 springs, and a small spacer, if needed. But I'm looking for front end input.

QUESTION(S):
I have been debating a simple refresh, leaving the lift spacer in, versus a set of lifted struts/springs. I like what I've seen of Eibach's line, being a momma-bear, not-too-soft, not-too-firm ride. Their Pro-Truck adjustable lifts are bare shocks, so re-using in-place springs/isolators/etc. But they seem to sell springs, too, which give their own lift (allowing the strut to be set closer to the stock level with less pre-load, I assume).

I've found these springs (using Summit specs):
E30-23-005-02-20 - 2007-2013 RWD, 2.3" lift
E30-23-006-07-20 - 2014-2018 4WD/RWD, 2.5" lift
E30-23-006-01-20 - 1999-2006 RWD, 2.5" lift

It's like a scattershot that missed 2007-2013 4WD trucks. But the 2WD uses the same front springs, right? So the first option (*005-02-20) should be the right one? What comes in their "Stage 1" kit (E80-23-005-02-22) for the pickups?

Do these use the stock upper boots/isolators? They have notes about "Must be used w/Eibach shocks," but also mention being on stock shocks/height. :shrug: Anyone know if the quoted lift is with the shock set to highest, or lowest (i.e. what would these give on a 'stock' strut)?

OTHER:
I plan on getting new UCAs and dropping the differential. I need at least one new CV, or to rebuild my passenger side, due to a slit in the boot. Plan to do sway bar links/bushings all around (any need for adjustable/longer links for such a small lift amount in the rear?). Same question about the panhard/track bar: any need for the Spohn piece with just an inch or two in the rear? My OCD will get to me if there's any noticeable offset.

Thanks for any input,
-bZj
 

Dustin Jackson

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The max I would recommend lifting without a proper lift kit would be 3 inches.

I haven't heard of anyone running those Eibach springs but if you want to move to a lift spacer that goes on top of the strut instead of under the strut you will want to get at minimum a 2 inch above strut spacer. Then you would just need to find a strut package that can offer that extra 1 inch of lift and that would bring you to the 3 inch lift mark. You could accomplish this by using the factory spring with Bilstein 5100s struts and setting the spring perch to the highest setting.

The struts do use isolators and boots, from what I could see the isolators will never go bad but I would swap the boot while you are in there.

Get the adjustable track bar because if you do the Moog 81069 spring with a spacer lift it might move the rear end enough for it to be noticeable.

The rest of your plan sounds pretty good, If you are lifting the rear without using lifted rear shocks grab the Rough Country rear shock extension bracket and look into longer rear sway bar end links.

Check out the build in my signature for for ideas
 

CarolinaCoastal18

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Has anyone installed this kit yet? Eibach PRO-TRUCK-LIFT Stage 1
 

georgerenner

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Yeah, I've installed that kit. What would you like to know?
Would it work for a 2011 GMC Denali? I'm deleting the air ride. I like the made in usa brand also. Thank you in advance for letting me know!
 

georgerenner

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Does it work in a 2011 Yukon? Thanks for the answer!
I checked in with Google AI and it said the platforms are the same, so I'm going to go with the eibachs since they come with all new parts. I just don't know what to do with the ecm programing for the air system.
 

Charlie207

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I checked in with Google AI and it said the platforms are the same, so I'm going to go with the eibachs since they come with all new parts. I just don't know what to do with the ecm programing for the air system.

Yeah, most of the parts are identical, except GM changed the part #s. For example, I found a good deal on Marketplace for OEM brake caliper pins, boots, bolts, etc... from a local guy who ordered too many. They were all marked as 2015+ K2xx, but are identical to GMT900 parts.

If I had known about this Eibach kit a few years ago I might have chosen it over the Bilstein 5100s I installed, just to try something different.
 

John18A

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The max I would recommend lifting without a proper lift kit would be 3 inches.

The struts do use isolators and boots, from what I could see the isolators will never go bad but I would swap the boot while you are in there.

Get the adjustable track bar because if you do the Moog 81069 spring with a spacer lift it might move the rear end enough for it to be noticeable.

Check out the build in my signature for for ideas
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm looking to refresh my suspension as well. Dustin, how is your lift working out? I currently have Bilstein 5100s on stock springs with a rear block, and it feels terrible. My current height, from wheel center to fender, is 22 3/4" in the front and 24 1/2" in the rear. If I could get level with better handling that would be great! It's like driving a buckboard wagon now down a washboard road.

Thanks to all for all the great info here.

John
 

Charlie207

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Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm looking to refresh my suspension as well. Dustin, how is your lift working out? I currently have Bilstein 5100s on stock springs with a rear block, and it feels terrible. My current height, from wheel center to fender, is 22 3/4" in the front and 24 1/2" in the rear. If I could get level with better handling that would be great! It's like driving a buckboard wagon now down a washboard road.

Thanks to all for all the great info here.

John

Pull out the rear block?

What are your factory springs? (per the RPO sticker in your glovebox)
 

mikez71

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Or you may need shock extenders in the back..
My z71 withot 3rd row, didn't feel great with just a 1" spacer in back.
 

Charlie207

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Forgot about that!


I'm running 5100s with my factory comfort springs, and it seems fine. I can imagine riding around with stiff springs and shocks would make it uncomfortable with no load or trailer attached to the rear. I have the ZW7 RPO code (comfort suspension), with a 1.5" spacer in the rear, and lifted 5100 setting in the front. I don't really haul a ton of weight around, and have only been towing a 5'x8' enclosed trailer the last few weeks, and it's pretty good.
 

John18A

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I have the factory Z71 suspension, pretty sure they are the original springs. The Bilstein 5100s seem to be fairly new and in good condition, so I was hoping to keep them. I am thinking about switching out the springs for the Moog 81244 and 81069 springs, and wondering what that ride quality would be like. My clearance in the back is good, at 24 1/2" center to fender. I'd like to get the front up to level (currently 22 3/4").
 

Charlie207

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I have the factory Z71 suspension, pretty sure they are the original springs. The Bilstein 5100s seem to be fairly new and in good condition, so I was hoping to keep them. I am thinking about switching out the springs for the Moog 81244 and 81069 springs, and wondering what that ride quality would be like. My clearance in the back is good, at 24 1/2" center to fender. I'd like to get the front up to level (currently 22 3/4").

".... center to fender..."


Does that mean center of wheel, to center of fender lip, straight up? (just curious, as it seems like folks measure differently. Center of wheel makes sense, because of low vs. high tire pressure could skew the distance from the ground to the center of fender lip.)
 

John18A

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Yes, center of wheel, to center of fender lip, straight up. I should have clarified that. Thanks!
 

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