2007 Tahoe 5.3 Camshaft Swap Question

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jws1234

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Hi am new to the forums as well as chevy's I have always had rams but I picked up this 2007 tahoe 5.3 with a bad cam. I pulled everything apart today to match up my 'new' camshaft and came across a issue. They do not look the same and I am very confused because even when i look up new camshafts it looks like the new one i got and nothing like the old one any help much appreciated.


the one on the left is the old one Also i could not upload pictures on here no idea why.
 

donjetman

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your in waaay over your head.

Buy the book on amazon titled: How To Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines - $30
 
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jws1234

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your in waaay over your head.

Buy the book on amazon titled: How To Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines - $30
I have rebuilt tons of 5.7 hemis I am a engine guy just never touched any gm ever. I am just confused on why when i look up a cam for this thing they dont look the same Is it just a change in design or what?. I am staying stock with afm no mods I just need to know what the right cam is. The number on the back of the old cam takes me nowhere when i look it up.
 
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rdezs

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The one with the oil groove and the number two bearing journal is for VVT
 
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jws1234

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The one with the oil groove and the number two bearing journal is for VVT
Ok that makes sense now this one is NOT a vvt engine but has afm/dod. when I look up cams for this truck it only comes up with the vvt camshaft like i have above even on oem sites. Am I able to use a vvt cam on a non vvt engine that has afm/dod ?
 
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jws1234

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Like do brand new non vvt but afm/dod cams not exsist anymore? or is the vvt cam a direct replacement for the older 5.3 afm/dod engines?
 
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blondie70

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If no one here can help....call Summit Racing or another supplier and talk to them...they will know and help out if they think they are gonna sell a cam.
 

rdezs

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I would get the proper camshaft. VVT didn't come out in 5.3s until maybe 2010 I think....
 
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jws1234

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I would get the proper camshaft. VVT didn't come out in 5.3s until maybe 2010 I think....
yea thats what it looks like but on all websites a non vvt cam no longer exsist and it comes up with a vvt cam saying it fits even on even oem sites. I also saw a few youtube vids of 5.3 cam swaps they have the same oem cam as I do and they swap the vvt cam in use the same non vvt gear but they never explain it.. I just dont wanna throw this thing in and have it blow up on me ahahah.

I will try to call a dealership but they are usually a bunch of morons.
 

rdezs

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I would say call summit. You have an interesting predicament. I checked multiple sources online and they all showed the groove for VVT. One person installed it in their 5.3 and they're idle oil pressure was half of what it should be.
 

rdezs

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Actually, this sounds like the perfect reason to go ahead and delete the AFM. Lots of camshafts to choose from that way.
 
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jws1234

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Actually, this sounds like the perfect reason to go ahead and delete the AFM. Lots of camshafts to choose from that way.
I am doing this on the cheap truck has 200k i paid 500 buks for it its a beater with parts someone gave me all in its like $300 for everything so... Otherwise id go all in ahaha so far from what i can tell even looking on summits website every single cam has the vvt passage. So unless someone here states otherwise I am just going to throw it in and see what happens If it blows up il let you guys know lmfao.
 

rdezs

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It will run. I saw reviews about that. Just one commented that is oil pressure at idle drop to half of what it was. He could have had worn out cam bearings.
 

j91z28d1

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I might have skimmed it wrong, but did you say you're keeping afm? if so, I would warn you trying to do it cheaply usually means using cheap afm lifters. (Amazon/ebay) almost always they fail and by fail I mean either out of the box fail on first start up or a month later.

it sucks pulling the heads on your beater to do it twice. so just a heads up. a non afm cam and lifter set is probably better in the long run. or at least use oem or millings afm lifters.
 

rdezs

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I would think an OEM 6.0 cam, such as for the lq4, with the regular GM performance hydraulic lifters in place of the AFM components.... And a flat valley cover, while plugging the oil towers.... Would be a lot cheaper than repairing the AFM system. Last time I noticed that the AFM lifters were stupidly expensive, for a product that is just asking for trouble.

If you're doing this on a tight budget, that would be the way to go.
 
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jws1234

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I might have skimmed it wrong, but did you say you're keeping afm? if so, I would warn you trying to do it cheaply usually means using cheap afm lifters. (Amazon/ebay) almost always they fail and by fail I mean either out of the box fail on first start up or a month later.

it sucks pulling the heads on your beater to do it twice. so just a heads up. a non afm cam and lifter set is probably better in the long run. or at least use oem or millings afm lifters.
I bought 2 OEM afm lifters from my local dealer for $60 the rest of the lifters are in good shape so i am not replacing them It only took me 2 hours to tear this truck down so not to big of a deal. I have a tuner that will cost me nothing to shut afm off at least . Overall for where this truck is going I only expect it to last another 30-40k miles so I just need it to run on all 8 the engine is very clean on the inside so thats a plus. In parts total with fluids im about $300 in the whole thing I looked up afm delete kits but they where all 800-1300 so...
 

rdezs

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Well good luck with that. It's many times people try to save money, and it ends up costing more in the end. If one AFM lifter failed, statistically the rest are not far behind. And most of the time if one failed, that causes often attributed to the VLOM plate solenoids..... Which GM calls for being replaced anytime they're removed. When you consider the time and money involved in pulling the heads to change a lifter.... It's much more cost effective to replace them all while you're in there then to keep pulling the heads off every time I lifter fails.

Lol .. or.... You could get absolutely lucky and it will go that 40,000 miles :)
 

j91z28d1

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I bought 2 OEM afm lifters from my local dealer for $60 the rest of the lifters are in good shape so i am not replacing them It only took me 2 hours to tear this truck down so not to big of a deal. I have a tuner that will cost me nothing to shut afm off at least . Overall for where this truck is going I only expect it to last another 30-40k miles so I just need it to run on all 8 the engine is very clean on the inside so thats a plus. In parts total with fluids im about $300 in the whole thing I looked up afm delete kits but they where all 800-1300 so...


makes. since if you're willing to do the work. curious to see what you find in the cam lobes how the lifters failed. Just stuck or spun.


update how it goes.
 

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