NHTSA opens preliminary probe into more than 870,000 GM vehicles

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jfoj

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8 mile, 15 minute drive. Ambient temp was 39F, start up oil temp was 43F probably due to some laten heat in the engine block because the outside temp had dropped. After 8 miles/15 minutes the engine oil had only reached 170F. So maybe some of what I have been saying about short drives and fuel contamination and not cooking off fuel out of the oil may make some sense?

I will have some other decent data in the next few days. Keep in mind the engine coolant temperature typically should hit 100F in the first mile. Guestimating it looks like the engine oil temp did not hit 100F until about mile 3 or 3.5?

2nd graph is a comparing a 15 minute cold start idle vs a slightly longer cold start drive

3rd graph is a 36F cold start 32 minute drive which show the engine coolant temperatue took 16 minutes to hit 200F and the oil temperature takes 29 minutes for the oil temp to hit 200F.

Finally was able to see oil temp hit 223F after about 2 hours of highway driving on a 64F day.

Bottom graph, cold start @46F Ambient, 15 minute rural drive, then the rest is highway. Engine oil took 33 minutes to fully warm up and stabilize after cold start and 15 minute rural drive. 15 minute rural drive the engine oil reached 190F, really not warm enough to fully start cooking off fuel and water vapor.

Oil Temp From Cold Start 15 minutes 8 miles.jpg
Cold Start vs Cold Start Drive.jpg
Oil and Coolant Temp 36F Drive.jpg
OBD Screenshot.png
Engine and Transmission Temp.jpg
 
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jfoj

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As a follow up, this was another portion of the same trip. Almost 8 minutes for the oil temp to go from 185F to 201F! Oil temp still did not match or exceed engine coolant temperature at that point in time. I think the increase from the 170F to 185F was while I was in a drive thru line for some period of time. I killed the Logging because I did not want or need much idle time. Not sure if the stairstepping is accurate or a fucntion of the Logging Sample time, with Temperature often the sample times are not very fast. This should have been sampled at the same rate as the above graph, but the length of time is about 1/2 of the above graph. Not sure it really matters, but I am sure some will have problems with the data?
Engine Oil Temp from 185 to 201.jpg
 
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blanchard7684

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So 23 minutes for oil to reach a fairly normal operating temp? (starting from 40 deg).
 

Antonm

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And none of that matters ,,,, because the issue with the whole warm-up or not to warm-up thing is not about the oil or bearing wear ,,,, its about piston ring wear ,,, and piston ring wear is more affected by coolant temperature than the oil temperature.

There are work trucks and police cars that get literally thousands of idle hours on them every year (including the police Tahoe's) its not the bottom end/ main bearings/ rod bearings in those that cause the engines to get replaced, its that they start smoking and burning oil because the upper compression ring gets worn and the oil control rings gets clogged.

The issue the 6.2 has that opened the NHTSA investigation (remember that, the topic of the thread) revolves around bearing failure, aka , not related to the whole warm-up or not to warm-up thing.

Yes extended warm-up is bad, but it isn't the freaking cause of, or even a contributing factor to, the issue the 6.2 has that's causing the NHTSA investigation.
...
 

jfoj

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23 mnutes, PLUS time not Logged idling in a Drive Thru! The oil went from 170F to 185F during this time.

Maybe my truck needs a new thermostat?? NOT!
 

jfoj

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And none of that matters ,,,, because the issue with the whole warm-up or not to warm-up thing is not about the oil or bearing wear ,,,, its about piston ring wear ,,, and piston ring wear is more affected by coolant temperature than the oil temperature.

There are work trucks and police cars that get literally thousands of idle hours on them every year (including the police Tahoe's) its not the bottom end/ main bearings/ rod bearings in those that cause the engines to get replaced, its that they start smoking and burning oil because the upper compression ring gets worn and the oil control rings gets clogged.

The issue the 6.2 has that opened the NHTSA investigation (remember that, the topic of the thread) revolves around bearing failure, aka , not related to the whole warm-up or not to warm-up thing.

Yes extended warm-up is bad, but it isn't the freaking cause of, or even a contributing factor to, the issue the 6.2 has that's causing the NHTSA investigation.
...
Warming up the engine without driving the vehicle adds to a pretty substantial increase in fuel dilution of the engine oil. Add this to the 0W20 engine oil, the fact that the 6.2l is running the 2 stage oil pump (the 5.3l L84 dropped the 2 stage pump) add in the High Torque/Low RPM operation, Auto Stop/Start, DFM and LSPI and oil consumption where these engines are being run chronically low on oil, this ALL has to do with premature bearing wear. My 6.2l operates about 28 PSI in gear at idle, this is also not with 0W20 oil, this is also not a Summer high temp long drive sitting in Metro rush hour traffic, what do you think the oil pressure might be if 0W20 was being used and was thinned out with fuel, it sure would nto be higher than 28 PSI. Even at 28 PSI, I can hear the front main and #1 rod bearing screaming.

All the fleet idling you are talking about is idling with fully warmed up oil, not part of the concern here, but it could still lead to some fuel dilution of the oil. But most fleets are smart enough they change the oil more frequently than a typical customer driving a daily.

Lets not forget the fact that we have all but abandoned the lifters and camshaft problems at this point. The roller bearings in the lifters are a weak spot when the oil gets thinned out as well. The tiny needle bearings inside the lifter rollers have a lot of loading put on them and the thin oil that is recommended is probaby borderline, fuel contaminated oil, well good luck.

You seem to be missing the POINT again, I am sure others are starting to follow along.

Bearing failures before the first oil change, I have no specific data on these problems, could be a parts or assembly problems, could be the lack of Preminum fuel and people getting too used to the remote start and warming up these vehicles, DFM fully operation and Auto Stop/Start fully operational. Hell has anyone even check the oil level is these engines that failed at under 7500 miles, they might be close to 2 quarts low on oil.

UNDERSTAND we have had a lot of recent complaints and what season are we in now, WINTER. We have had a number of Polar Vortexs hit areas that are not typically hit with the cold temps we have been seeing in much of the US. Some of these owners might have been caught off guard without ice scrapers would just start the truck with the remote and allow the engine to idle for 15-20 minutes, who would not want to get is a warm truck when it is 0F outside. If the ambient temps are 0F, what temp would the oil get up to after a 15 minute no load idle, not very high. Some of the failures happened before the WINTER temps hit, but cold weather is hell on the engine oil in these trucks on a good day.

Pay attention to or at least UNDERSTAND the OIL TEMPERATURE and how far it lags behind the coolant temperature. Forget the COOLANT TEMPERATURE, the coolant will heat up within the first few miles of driving, the oil will be lucky to be 10-15F above the ambient temperature after 3 minutes of starting the truck and driving. Oil temp may barely move if you start the engine and just allow it to idle.

All the bearing failures after the first oil change are not likely faulty components or assembly issues. Oil starvation and/or oil breakdown/fuel dilution, add LSPI and 2 quarts low on contaminated 0W20 which is lucky to be -10W10 by the time the crankcase is loaded with fuel, good luck!

Buy into what you want, cold engines under no load take longer to warm up than an engine that is driven, oil typically takes at 2+ times or longer to get up to a resonable temperature and may even take as long as 15+ minutes to even match the engine coolant temperature.

Go back and read my prediction for the outcome of the NHTSA "investigation", not holding out any hope there will be whole engine replacments, GM will try to pass most of the problem off to how the vehicle was driven and maintained, and in part they would be mostly correct.
 

Antonm

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Warming up the engine without driving the vehicle adds to a pretty substantial increase in fuel dilution of the engine oil. Add this to the 0W20 engine oil, the fact that the 6.2l is running the 2 stage oil pump (the 5.3l L84 dropped the 2 stage pump) add in the High Torque/Low RPM operation, Auto Stop/Start, DFM and LSPI and oil consumption where these engines are being run chronically low on oil, this ALL has to do with premature bearing wear. My 6.2l operates about 28 PSI in gear at idle, this is also not with 0W20 oil, this is also not a Summer high temp long drive sitting in Metro rush hour traffic, what do you think the oil pressure might be if 0W20 was being used and was thinned out with fuel, it sure would nto be higher than 28 PSI. Even at 28 PSI, I can hear the front main and #1 rod bearing screaming.

All the fleet idling you are talking about is idling with fully warmed up oil, not part of the concern here, but it could still lead to some fuel dilution of the oil. But most fleets are smart enough they change the oil more frequently than a typical customer driving a daily.

Lets not forget the fact that we have all but abandoned the lifters and camshaft problems at this point. The roller bearings in the lifters are a weak spot when the oil gets thinned out as well. The tiny needle bearings inside the lifter rollers have a lot of loading put on them and the thin oil that is recommended is probaby borderline, fuel contaminated oil, well good luck.

You seem to be missing the POINT again, I am sure others are starting to follow along.

Bearing failures before the first oil change, I have no specific data on these problems, could be a parts or assembly problems, could be the lack of Preminum fuel and people getting too used to the remote start and warming up these vehicles, DFM fully operation and Auto Stop/Start fully operational. Hell has anyone even check the oil level is these engines that failed at under 7500 miles, they might be close to 2 quarts low on oil.

UNDERSTAND we have had a lot of recent complaints and what season are we in now, WINTER. We have had a number of Polar Vortexs hit areas that are not typically hit with the cold temps we have been seeing in much of the US. Some of these owners might have been caught off guard without ice scrapers would just start the truck with the remote and allow the engine to idle for 15-20 minutes, who would not want to get is a warm truck when it is 0F outside. If the ambient temps are 0F, what temp would the oil get up to after a 15 minute no load idle, not very high. Some of the failures happened before the WINTER temps hit, but cold weather is hell on the engine oil in these trucks on a good day.

Pay attention to or at least UNDERSTAND the OIL TEMPERATURE and how far it lags behind the coolant temperature. Forget the COOLANT TEMPERATURE, the coolant will heat up within the first few miles of driving, the oil will be lucky to be 10-15F above the ambient temperature after 3 minutes of starting the truck and driving. Oil temp may barely move if you start the engine and just allow it to idle.

All the bearing failures after the first oil change are not likely faulty components or assembly issues. Oil starvation and/or oil breakdown/fuel dilution, add LSPI and 2 quarts low on contaminated 0W20 which is lucky to be -10W10 by the time the crankcase is loaded with fuel, good luck!

Buy into what you want, cold engines under no load take longer to warm up than an engine that is driven, oil typically takes at 2+ times or longer to get up to a resonable temperature and may even take as long as 15+ minutes to even match the engine coolant temperature.

Go back and read my prediction for the outcome of the NHTSA "investigation", not holding out any hope there will be whole engine replacments, GM will try to pass most of the problem off to how the vehicle was driven and maintained, and in part they would be mostly correct.

You sure like to type a lot and not really say much.

There are a few grains truth that you're parroting, but you're failing to grasp the orders of magnitude differences.

Excessive warmup is bad, but its not the cause, or a real contributing factor, to the issue of the NHTSA investigation.

Yes, fuel dilution is happening (excessive warm-up absolutely makes that worse), and that is a bad thing, but that's a chronic condition,,, the bearing failure issue that's going on is an acute condition.

What you're saying is like if a doctor was treating a gunshot wound of a smoker that got shot in the chest with 12 ga shotgun, yeah the cigarette smoking didn't help his health much, but maybe the doctor should focus more on the shotgun wound before going off on the dangers of cigarette smoking.

Likewise, GM needs to fix the low oil pressure/ bearing fault issue before going off on fuel dilution. Because while oil fuel dilation is bad, it doesn't cause low milage bearing failures ( go do a oil analysis on pretty much anything carbureted, any old car or tuck, even your lawn mower, I'll bet you'll be astonished by the amount of fuel in the oil).
...
 
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Vladimir2306

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Warming up the engine without driving the vehicle adds to a pretty substantial increase in fuel dilution of the engine oil. Add this to the 0W20 engine oil, the fact that the 6.2l is running the 2 stage oil pump (the 5.3l L84 dropped the 2 stage pump) add in the High Torque/Low RPM operation, Auto Stop/Start, DFM and LSPI and oil consumption where these engines are being run chronically low on oil, this ALL has to do with premature bearing wear. My 6.2l operates about 28 PSI in gear at idle, this is also not with 0W20 oil, this is also not a Summer high temp long drive sitting in Metro rush hour traffic, what do you think the oil pressure might be if 0W20 was being used and was thinned out with fuel, it sure would nto be higher than 28 PSI. Even at 28 PSI, I can hear the front main and #1 rod bearing screaming.

All the fleet idling you are talking about is idling with fully warmed up oil, not part of the concern here, but it could still lead to some fuel dilution of the oil. But most fleets are smart enough they change the oil more frequently than a typical customer driving a daily.

Lets not forget the fact that we have all but abandoned the lifters and camshaft problems at this point. The roller bearings in the lifters are a weak spot when the oil gets thinned out as well. The tiny needle bearings inside the lifter rollers have a lot of loading put on them and the thin oil that is recommended is probaby borderline, fuel contaminated oil, well good luck.

You seem to be missing the POINT again, I am sure others are starting to follow along.

Bearing failures before the first oil change, I have no specific data on these problems, could be a parts or assembly problems, could be the lack of Preminum fuel and people getting too used to the remote start and warming up these vehicles, DFM fully operation and Auto Stop/Start fully operational. Hell has anyone even check the oil level is these engines that failed at under 7500 miles, they might be close to 2 quarts low on oil.

UNDERSTAND we have had a lot of recent complaints and what season are we in now, WINTER. We have had a number of Polar Vortexs hit areas that are not typically hit with the cold temps we have been seeing in much of the US. Some of these owners might have been caught off guard without ice scrapers would just start the truck with the remote and allow the engine to idle for 15-20 minutes, who would not want to get is a warm truck when it is 0F outside. If the ambient temps are 0F, what temp would the oil get up to after a 15 minute no load idle, not very high. Some of the failures happened before the WINTER temps hit, but cold weather is hell on the engine oil in these trucks on a good day.

Pay attention to or at least UNDERSTAND the OIL TEMPERATURE and how far it lags behind the coolant temperature. Forget the COOLANT TEMPERATURE, the coolant will heat up within the first few miles of driving, the oil will be lucky to be 10-15F above the ambient temperature after 3 minutes of starting the truck and driving. Oil temp may barely move if you start the engine and just allow it to idle.

All the bearing failures after the first oil change are not likely faulty components or assembly issues. Oil starvation and/or oil breakdown/fuel dilution, add LSPI and 2 quarts low on contaminated 0W20 which is lucky to be -10W10 by the time the crankcase is loaded with fuel, good luck!

Buy into what you want, cold engines under no load take longer to warm up than an engine that is driven, oil typically takes at 2+ times or longer to get up to a resonable temperature and may even take as long as 15+ minutes to even match the engine coolant temperature.

Go back and read my prediction for the outcome of the NHTSA "investigation", not holding out any hope there will be whole engine replacments, GM will try to pass most of the problem off to how the vehicle was driven and maintained, and in part they would be mostly correct.
You're going the wrong way again. I wrote earlier. Engines come out of the box from the factory with smaller clearances than they should be according to regulations. They jam when cold, when it lies in the box the pistons do not pass without effort. And when you warm up the engine, the gap becomes even smaller, and the liners and crankshaft begin to experience monstrous resistance pushing the pistons in a narrow cylinder.
I showed a video of the engine out of the box. And this is not just one engine. These engines all come from the GM plant. That’s why in our service center the new engine is disassembled and sharpened. The new engine shows no signs of cold running in; when the engine is cold, the pistons jam.
What you write about fuel and idling, yes, all of this wears out the engine, but like any engine work it wears out... but this is not the reason for engine failure at 100-1000 miles.
 

blanchard7684

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I think an accurate analogy for what Jfoj is saying would be:

A guy has a massive heart attack.

Doctor finds

High stress lifestyle or occupation ( load on bearings high)
Smoker ( oil dilution with fuel)
Family history of heart issues ( di engine’s propensity for oil dilution and lspi)
Age ( long oil change intervals)
High cholesterol ( 0w20 )
Other factors like recent surgery, or recent drug issue , change in prescriptions ( two stage oil pump)
Etc etc…
 

Stonefort

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I can’t wrap my head around the idea of not letting the truck warm up before driving it, especially when it’s cold out. My father insisted back in the ‘80s that I always let the car warm up, and that’s what I’ve always done.

I agree. Plus... I am more than willing to accept the wear (if there is any) to not suffer driving my ass in a frozen vehicle for even 10 seconds. Just No.
 

jfoj

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Unfortunately these engnies do not have a track record of "wearing out", they fail.

My 6.0l is in the process of "wearing out" it has 275,000 miles and counting.

Bearings or camshaft and lifter problems. The camshaft and lifter problems are somewhat salvageable, bearing failure usually requires engine, oil lines and radiator replacement. Either of these repairs are extensive, expensive if not under warranty and may have considerable downtime.

Want to start the engine and allow it to idle to warm or cool cabin off, no problem, do these 3 things:

1. Check the engine oil with the dipstick every 2nd fill up
2. Change the oil at 50% of the OLM, approximately 3000 miles
3. Run something other than 0W20 engine oil, either 5W30 or 0W40.
4. In the colder months make sure you can make at least a daily or every few day 30+ minute drive to try and warm the oil up enough to "cook out" some of the fuel in the oil.

The 4 things above are far cheaper and easier than camshaft and lifter or engine replacement.
 
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jfoj

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You sure like to type a lot and not really say much.

There are a few grains truth that you're parroting, but you're failing to grasp the orders of magnitude differences.

Excessive warmup is bad, but its not the cause, or a real contributing factor, to the issue of the NHTSA investigation.

Yes, fuel dilution is happening (excessive warm-up absolutely makes that worse), and that is a bad thing, but that's a chronic condition,,, the bearing failure issue that's going on is an acute condition.

What you're saying is like if a doctor was treating a gunshot wound of a smoker that got shot in the chest with 12 ga shotgun, yeah the cigarette smoking didn't help his health much, but maybe the doctor should focus more on the shotgun wound before going off on the dangers of cigarette smoking.

Likewise, GM needs to fix the low oil pressure/ bearing fault issue before going off on fuel dilution. Because while oil fuel dilation is bad, it doesn't cause low milage bearing failures ( go do a oil analysis on pretty much anything carbureted, any old car or tuck, even your lawn mower, I'll bet you'll be astonished by the amount of fuel in the oil).
...
AntonM, you clearly are missing the point.

If you have ever driven the L87 6.2l in one these trucks with the 10 speed automatic, especially on the highway and monitored the engine loading and lack of downshifting going on, you would CLEARLY realize how much of a Low RPM/High Torque load these engines are being subject to on every drive. At 75 MPH on the highway the engine never exceeds 1600 RPM unless pulling a farly steep grade or passing around traffic.

Fresh 0w20 oil with the oil pump configuration in this engine may be borderline suficient for this Low RPM/High Torque loading, but once the 0W20 oil has started to become fuel contamined, all bets are off. Add to this LSPI with the loading these engines are under and you are just going to hammer the bearings out of the bottom end of the engine. Run the engine constantly 2 quarts low on oil until the oil light comes on. Well this is your failure condition.

If you cannot grasp this, I do not know what to tell you.
 

Vladimir2306

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By the way, an interesting thought. Engines break down on cars before the 25th year restyle. I haven't heard of them breaking down yet, although 24-year-old models have broken down at 100-1000 miles. Does this mean that GM has found the cause and has already solved it for model year 25? It's just that now they are silent, fearing legal risks
 

jfoj

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That's the Million Dollar question.

What is going to happen with the 2025 model year vehicles? Did anything change, did GM figure this out, did GM change/solve anything, did GM change any of the vehicle programming or alerts, or are these the same basic parts in the same engines with the same programming?

Will we probably need to wait another 2-3 months before we see if the same problems show up on the 2025 models?

I'm not so confident anything has changed yet, but this is just a guess based on the lack of information or action on this issue.
 
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Antonm

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AntonM, you clearly are missing the point.

If you have ever driven the L87 6.2l in one these trucks with the 10 speed automatic, especially on the highway and monitored the engine loading and lack of downshifting going on, you would CLEARLY realize how much of a Low RPM/High Torque load these engines are being subject to on every drive. At 75 MPH on the highway the engine never exceeds 1600 RPM unless pulling a farly steep grade or passing around traffic.

Fresh 0w20 oil with the oil pump configuration in this engine may be borderline suficient for this Low RPM/High Torque loading, but once the 0W20 oil has started to become fuel contamined, all bets are off. Add to this LSPI with the loading these engines are under and you are just going to hammer the bearings out of the bottom end of the engine. Run the engine constantly 2 quarts low on oil until the oil light comes on. Well this is your failure condition.

If you cannot grasp this, I do not know what to tell you.

And you clearly don't a have a freaking clue about what the hell you're parroting.

With enough oil pressure, the thin oil could work, it doesn't have enough oil pressure, and its breaking as a result.

LSPI is a non -issue (complete non -issue, doesn't matter at all) in these engines for two reasons , one they're naturally aspirated, and two every freaking oil you can buy now is API SP rated, meaning the calcium content in the oil is so low that even in engines that would otherwise suffer from LPSI are OK with it.

Here's an article from SAE international (again real engineers with peer reviewed publications, not random internet people that think they know what they're talking about like you), take a quick read .


And here's the API (again real engineers, not people like you) explaining why the new API SP oil spec is a thing.



Bottom line, you've demonstrated numerous times that you have no clue what you're talking about (although you do have grains of truth in the stuff you parrot) and your long winded posts that say nothing only make the people that read them dumber and more misinformed than before they read them.
...
 

jfoj

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AntonM,

Again, you do not understand.

LSPI does happen on NA engines. All the discussion and testing is always on turbo engines because it is more predictable and repeatable on turbo engines. When testing and trying to change only 1 variable at a time, a platform that has a higher perpensity for LSPI is a much better choice.

As for the calcium being basically removed from the oil, you are correct, calcium was found to be a contibutor to LSPI. BUT, there is now awareness that fuel in the oil, fuel dilution of the oil IS a big problem and IS a big contributor to LSPI which the engineering community missed on round one.

Search the newer API standard SN Plus. BUT NOTE, again the INDUSTRY is missing the boat and they keep focusing on turbocharged engines, because this is where the problem is more prevasive. The problem with the 6.2l is the EXTREME Low RPM/High Torque loading and it is also aggrevated by the fact that many owners are also running Regular fuel rather than Premium fuel.

Unfortunately the 6.2l is a perfect storm for self destruction. Since the 10 speeds have showed up the problem has been even more prevalent due to the Low RPM/High Torque loading on the 6.2l.
 

KMeloney

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I agree. Plus... I am more than willing to accept the wear (if there is any) to not suffer driving my ass in a frozen vehicle for even 10 seconds. Just No.
Agreed!

Has anyone in this thread stated that the whole “warming the car up first is bad” thing is specifically a problem to the 6.2? (If so, I missed it.) Or, is this a “bad” practice for all gas engines? Because I’ve never heard such a thing before this thread — ever.

I’m not saying that it’s BS. I’m trying to learn and understand more about it. But yes, I’m skeptical about it.
 

jfoj

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It is bad for any engine.

The 6.2l is just a perfect storm for failures the way the drivetrain has been implemented.

Even the Auto Stop/Start is not good for the oil, but they trade off oil contamination for the less fuel consumed while at idle and not moving. I am surprised the EPA did not outlaw the remote start feature.
 

KMeloney

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It is bad for any engine.

The 6.2l is just a perfect storm for failures the way the drivetrain has been implemented.

Even the Auto Stop/Start is not good for the oil, but they trade off oil contamination for the less fuel consumed while at idle and not moving. I am surprised the EPA did not outlaw the remote start feature.
And I’m equally surprised that I’ve NEVER heard of this [remote start warm up] being more harmful than good, let alone downright bad. I’ve had a supercharged Mustang, a Z06, and other cars and SUVs through the years, and don’t know why I’ve never heard this.
 

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