Can i run my 2005 Yukon 5.3l with 8 quarts of oil in it

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Someone makes a bracket that will put pressure on the non-bolt side of the pickup tube.

Is that pic of the new washer that the other shop recently installed, the one you provided?
 
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cuttingedge

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Someone makes a bracket that will put pressure on the non-bolt side of the pickup tube.

Is that pic of the new washer that the other shop recently installed, the one you provided?
The one in the oil cap is. I'm aware of the extra clamp that can be used to even out the pressure and I'm definitely going to have one installed during reassembly.
 
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cuttingedge

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So are you saying that the first shop didn't change the pickup o-ring?
What I'm saying is, I think it is possible the pickup tube is cracked at the underside of the flange where the clamp at the bolt secures it to the oil pump inlet.

I am not saying they did or didn't replace the o-ring, at this point only the mechanic knows that, especially since they did not include a pic of the tube with the new o-ring installed.

I will also add, if I had done the job, or most likely any decent mechanic had, I would have certainly test run the engine before I reinstalled the front differential to verify oil pressure. There is absolutely no way it had oil pressure at that point, and discovering it then and reporting it to me would have yielded a completely different result, saved them the hassle of dealing with a very unhappy customer, made them a bit more honestly earned money, and saved me the hassle of having to pay someone else to do this repair over.

I would have much rather have bought a new pickup tube, pan gasket, o-ring, and paid them additional labor than to have it dumped on me after I paid and them not be upfront about the condition when finished.

And I paid them cash to boot because of the fee they charge to use a credit or debit card that if memory serves correct was 8%.
 

NELLY1947

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Hi. Will it harm my 2005 5.3l Yukon to run with 8 quarts of oil in it. The shop just supposedly changed my pickup tube o-ring and either they didn't actually do it or they messed up the seal during installation. I am willing to bet the pump is losing prime. When the truck is turned off. I can't afford to sink more money into right now and it's too damn cold for me to work on it in the driveway.
Make them fix it.
 

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Slightly off topic.. What is the correct procedure to restart the engine after replacing the O-ring? E.g. turn the engine over without starting until seeing pressure. FYI -I'm very close to having a shop replace my O-ring.
 

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Slightly off topic.. What is the correct procedure to restart the engine after replacing the O-ring? E.g. turn the engine over without starting until seeing pressure. FYI -I'm very close to having a shop replace my O-ring.
You can just remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine over till primed and then reinstall the relay.
 
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cuttingedge

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Make them fix it.
That's easier said than done. The shop owner has communicated to me he has no interest in doing the right thing. My only recourse at this time is to get it repaired, video or photograph and document the findings, and pursue legal action to try to get my money back.

It's the principle of the thing at this point. The mechanic should have done things differently and not told me the truck was ready when it had zero oil pressure. During our phone conversation, he keep insisting that it was the stepper motor on the gauge. It's not and unfortunately I am going to have to prove him wrong, with evidence to get anywhere with this.

As I stated earlier, when I showed up to pay the bill, all 3 employees, apparently including the owner, were open carrying pistols. I am not against open carrying a gun, but I am also not going to start an argument 15 minutes before closing time at dusk with 3 people packing and no witness. I don't feel like that was a good situation to be in. And, at that point I didn't know the truck didn't have any oil pressure. I only learned that about 30 minutes later when I had a ride to drop me off, and they were gone.

I've learned my lesson here. Now he has to learn his. Evidence is the only thing that's going to make that happen, and a lawyer unfortunately. I most likely won't have anymore contact with him unless it is through an attorney. I hate to have to do it this way, but people shouldn't have to go through this kind of thing with no consequences to the wrongful party.
 

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Sorry to hear about your situation, sounds like a garage to avoid. I would encourage you to write some fair, detailed reviews of your experience and post them to inform others. I’d also look for some good-reviewed shops in your area while you are at it.

Mechanics play beat the clock for their money, and if you direct them to do something they more than likely will do as you ask but may not take the time to look for other problems and potential problems, which is why I like to do most of my own work (and take my time).
 
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cuttingedge

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Okay, thanks. Also, I've read that RTV of some type should be put in the corners when replacing the pan gasket. Is this a good idea?
This is a necessity or it will leak at the seams where the parts bolt to the block. Additionally, I would recommend purchasing the auxiliary clamp for the pickup tube. Here is a link to a Melling branded unit.

 

Bill Barnes

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You know that you check the oil level with the engine running? The oil level during operation is important. The operating level is marked on the dipstick and needs to near the upper mark, when engine is running. The oil level with 8 quarts will be fine. The crankshaft rotation is well above the windage tray.
You NEVER check the oil level with the engine running! Where did you hear that???
 
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cuttingedge

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Sorry to hear about your situation, sounds like a garage to avoid. I would encourage you to write some fair, detailed reviews of your experience and post them to inform others. I’d also look for some good-reviewed shops in your area while you are at it.

Mechanics play beat the clock for their money, and if you direct them to do something they more than likely will do as you ask but may not take the time to look for other problems and potential problems, which is why I like to do most of my own work (and take my time).
I typically try to do all of my own work as well, but having a hernia and it being very cold right now makes that a tough ask. We are going to have some below zero Temps this week.

The big deal with this shop is telling me it was ready, taking my money, knowing I was picking it up after hours, after dark, in 20 degree weather, knowing it had zero oil pressure which makes the repair and truck uselss, and thinking that was the right thing to do. I can't delegate someone's morals but this is a dishonest business practice.

It's ready! Oh by the way it doesn't have any oil pressure... except they only said it was ready.

I bought a car from a dealership once and financed a factory upgraded wheel and tire package and some other upgrades. After 2 weeks of excuses they tell me the wheels were discontinued (TRD). The salesman says I can pick some out at a local shop, and if they are more expensive I pay the difference, if less they refund the difference. I go and work with a shop, pick out the wheels and tires, and then they tell me to get the part numbers and they will order them. That wasn't the deal. I had taken a good bit of the tire store's time, 3 visits I think making absolutely sure they would fit and were what I wanted. That tire shop earned that sale. I went in to discuss this with the salesman, and a heated argument ensues where be threatens to kick my a$$ and cusses me on the show room floor in front of customers and other employees. I left, and later called trying to get my other accessories I had purchased from the dealership at the sale. I was told the owner had them locked up in his office and they would not give them to me. I paid for them and they were not allowing me to get them.

Believe it or not this pissed me off. They wouldn't give me my property, couldn't furnish me the wheels and tires I paid for, we agreed on a solution, and then they changed the solution. Nope. They were going to give me my property and do what they said they would do.

I hired a label maker to print "I GOT SCREWED BY XXXXXX XXXXXXX" (dealership name where the x's are) in bright yellow block letters and install them on both sides and the rear of the vehicle I had bought from them, which was a dark green metallic Scion XB with dark tinted windows.

As soon as the labels were installed, I drove to the dealership, pulled up in tbe parking lot and honked my horn about 20 times. I drove that car up and down the road in front of the dealership until they closed. Even got pulled over by the cops, explained the situation, and he wished me good luck and said don't get on their property but that I could drive on the road for as long as I wished.

You know what? The owner of the dealership called me the next morning. To make an already long read shorter, he wanted to buy the car back. I told him it wasn't for sale. I also told him it got great gas mileage and I had a lot of free time, and that I intended to drive that car in front of his business every free moment I had until he gave me my property and did what the salesman told me would be done. Guess what? It was done that very day.

See, I don't like trouble, but I'll be damned if I'm going to get taken advantage of without a fight... and my Yukon is dark ming blue with tinted windows. I think bright yellow will really stand out against that pallet.
 

Donal

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You NEVER check the oil level with the engine running! Where did you hear that???
Actually these engines have a windage tray, an extended dip stick tube guide and a deep sump oil pan and the oil can be checked any time. Engine running or not.
I have been living with Chevrolet engines since 1963 when I bought my first C-2.
 
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Actually these engines have a windage tray, an extended dip stick tube guide and a deep sump oil pan and the oil can be checked any time. Engine running or not.
I have been living with Chevrolet engines since 1963 when I bought my first C-2.

Your measurement misses the oil that's already in the upper part of the engine, then.
 

Donal

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Your measurement misses the oil that's already in the upper part of the engine, then.
Correct. My purpose in using this static and dynamic levels is to determine if an unusual amount of oil is not returning to the sump. I expect the oil level drop about 1/2 inch drop when running if the vehicle is on level front to back. If the front of the vehicle is elevated, the level will drop more.
 

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