Z55 rear air options

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HACK BLOCK

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What’s up guys so I recently replaced my rear z55 shocks less than 2 years ago with acdelco and just found out one bag is shredded and leaking bad. Don’t got the money to replace with Oem/acdelco/arnott right now so I was looking at other options on rock auto or even Amazon. What is everyone opinion on the other choices on rock auto like fcs, cardone, spk, westar etc. or no name air shocks on Amazon.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I recommend replacing with OEM shocks for the best results, and they are easy to replace. Try RockAuto.com or GMPartsDirect.com, and the price of the shock should be around $350. Then, you will be covered under GM's lifetime warranty for the shock.
 

petethepug

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Still under warranty then. 1) Contacts seller. If seller is clueless contact eBay for refund. Ultimately a/c Delco is the warranty holder so they’re obligated to get you a new set.

Be sure to get names and phone numbers of individuals you speak to in the first two calls. A/c Delco may inquire on your behalf to check complete your warranty exchange.

If something goes sideways, send me a dm, I’ll wrassle it right for ya.
 
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HACK BLOCK

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Still under warranty then. 1) Contacts seller. If seller is clueless contact eBay for refund. Ultimately a/c Delco is the warranty holder so they’re obligated to get you a new set.

Be sure to get names and phone numbers of individuals you speak to in the first two calls. A/c Delco may inquire on your behalf to check complete your warranty exchange.

If something goes sideways, send me a dm, I’ll wrassle it right for ya.
contacted the seller and nothing. talked to eBay and was told to go to ACDelco. ACDelco won't touch it cause it came from eBay
 

petethepug

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contacted the seller and nothing. talked to eBay and was told to go to ACDelco. ACDelco won't touch it cause it came from eBay

Can u dm me a screen shot of the auction from eBay? This is the kind of shenanigans that keep SEMA going and getting bigger.
 

West 1

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I am still repairing a 2008 GMC Yukon Denali, purchased broken, customer claimed blown head gasket and other issues so I got it inexpensively but in need of TLC. Engine fully repaired, all fluids in the car changed, Oil Pan gasket and Oil pump Oring replaced. Oil pump removed and by pass spring pressure increased for better oil pressure. New oil pump by pass valve in pan. New Dash, New struts in rear and new rear actuator to control the electric rear hatch. All Good. Engine runs great. 30+ idle hot oil pressure, 55 at cruse speed.
Passed smog check and all good as far as engine.

Problems with rear suspension and code in system for C0-660-06. problem with exhaust valve in compressor? Found compressor would not function even with direct power supplied. Installed brand new AC Delco compressor, the original code of C0660-06 is now gone when scanning the system but new code of C0-711-00 has shown up? Compressor works, scan tool allows me to test the compressor, look at all 4 wheel sensors, all show the level adjustment is working, I checked all the wires thinking I had messed up and damaged one while installing the compressor? All seemed good? Looking at the scan tool the compressor shows voltage at the exhaust valve and in line pressure. Voltage showed 4.98V? Max if 5v and normal should be between .15v and 5v? No matter what I only see the constant voltage and pressure?

I removed the lines, no change? I took the exhaust valve off my OLD compressor that was locked up and installed the old valve on the new compressor. The Co711-00 code will now clear and has not come back?

I installed 2 new rear shocks as my old ones would not hold air. No surprise. Used Arnott AS 2708's for my Z55 system. All good now but still looking forward to first test drive. Thought I would pass along the results of the code chasing. I wasted many hours tracing wires due to the bad new AC Delco compressor. Last time I changed one of these I used the Dorman unit and it worked flawlessly right away.
 

petethepug

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Damn fine bit of diagnostics and work arounds on the z55. I still can’t figure why GM hasn’t equipped their compressors with a thermal overload so they don’t burn up if a shock leaks.
 

West 1

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Thanks for the kind words, a good mechanic might have diagnosed this many hours faster than I. I had to work through every step while figuring it out.

First test drive, only 30 miles so far. At first the shocks were stiff and scan tool showed voltage around 2 Volts pressure was high 70’s. As I drove the voltage kept going lower and voltage continued to drop till it was close to zero. Ride kept getting softer, seems to absorb and react to bumps in the road well?

I have never scanned the Z55 system while driving before so no idea if this is normal. Compressor does it’s test on start up and stays off as far as I know. I can hear the exhaust valve purge each time the compressor starts so it appears to be working perfectly.

Does anyone know what normal pressure and voltage is in these Z55 systems?

Thanks

Mark
 

West 1

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Follow up to the Z55 Autoride repair. I found the Denali would sometimes ride smooth and soft and sometimes ride hard? It has very few miles on it since I repaired it, less than 140 so far. I had installed the used pressure switch for the air compressor because the new AC Delco switch that came on this new compressor had been found to not work and was throwing a hard code in my scan tool, since I was getting odd response out of the rear air auto ride system I ordered in a new Dryer since that is the only way I found to get a new pressure switch. It comes mounted on a new dryer. I had time this weekend and checked the pressure parked before starting this repair. Scan tool showed system air pressure was at 76 lbs, 2.4V approx. When driving this Denali with the scan tool connected watching the system air pressure I noticed it slowly leaked, ride would start out very firm with the system showing nearly 80 PSI and as I drove it would slowly drop air pressure till it would get down to zero after maybe 20 minutes of driving? Ride would soften up as pressure dropped? I believe the leak was at the used pressure switch on the dryer. I believe these readings were all bad numbers due to the bad pressure switch/sensor.

I replaced the dryer and switch, had to play with the O ring on the dryer where it plugs into the compressor, the original was pretty loose which could lead to leaks. Got this tightened with a new o ring and assembled.

Tried to test the repaired compressor and it would not come on. Scan tool hooked up to try the exhaust valve, it would not operate? Tried to use the tool to activate the compressor, it would not operate????

I shut the car off, key off and waited about 2 minutes and turned it back on, compressor still did not cycle? At this point I used the scan tool and asked it to clear the codes for just this Z55 suspension system. It did this. As soon as the codes cleared, ( even though the scan tool clearly told me there were no active codes ) the compressor activated normally, pumped up the shocks and shut off. The exhaust valve opens like normal once the shocks went through the initial compressor run and pumped up.

After this I shut down the car, waited 2 minutes and turned the key back on, the exhaust valve opened again and following that the compressor turned on like it should and ran for maybe 30 seconds and shut off.

Compressor is now operating normally/properly. I sprayed the system down with soapy water and watched for bubbles. None showed after 45 minutes.

Checked pressure after the repair in the Z55 system. Now the new pressure sensor is showing the shocks have 23 lbs of pressure. I watched this pressure for an hour to make sure it was not leaking. In the first 5 minutes after the shocks filled on start up the pressure very slowly dropped from 23 PSI to 21.2 PSI. I believe this is just the air balancing out between the two shocks. I did notice the driver side shock fills faster than the passenger side. I believe this is due to the length of air line being longer on the passenger side. After a few minutes the pressure stabilized and stayed at approximately 21.2 for the next hour. Tells me no leaks while parked. I think voltage was .882v V at 21 PSI pressure. I did notice while testing that at 5 v the system shows nearly 200 PSI.

Last test today, took it for a 40 mile test drive, hit the freeway, drove 68 mph on cruise control, 20 miles out, turned around and 20 miles back home. It now drives perfectly, very forgiving ride, takes bumps like a pro. Pressure jumped to 23 psi on the start up for this drive and stayed exactly there the entire drive. I did have a full tank of gas, all seats in the car but I was the only person in the car for this drive. So now I know, an empty 2008 YUKON DENALI has a running air pressure around 23 psi when loaded like mine, basically empty except for the full tank of gas and a driver in the car. I wanted to hook up a trailer with 400 lbs of tongue weight to watch the shocks adjust but ran out of time. No doubt they will work now.

My tool did allow doing a RESET of the Z55 system after repairs. I had read that you should do a Bump Stop reset also after repairs but my scan tool did not offer that option.

I post this information because I could not find any information anywhere telling me what pressure or voltage to expect in a properly working Z55 system.

My scan tool is a Launch X431V+, it offers two way communication with the vehicle. Expensive but it has allowed me to do many projects and find many issues on several cars. It can do some programming of modules, sets TPMS sensors etc. Only downside of this tool it the Updates, updates are free for 2 years after purchase. After that they cost $400 per year and if you do not pay they lock your scan tool. I wish I had bought a tool with lifetime updates provided but this is a very good tool to have in the shop.

Hope this helps the next guy/gal trying to repair a Z55 auto ride system.

Mark
 
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Joseph Garcia

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Thank you for posting this narrative. This would have been very useful to me a few years back, but like you, I had to learn the Z55 system operation by myself, one user error at a time.
 

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