2011 Escalade - worth repairing?

[Multidriver]

My daughter and son-in-law have a 2011 Escalade ESV with 180,000 miles on it. New tires and brakes about a year ago. Seems to run well. Shop says it needs:
1. One or more motor mounts
2. Squealing diagnosed as coming from front transfer case; at least change the fluid, may need a rebuild
3. 2 exhaust manifold bolts have backed out, 1 more is starting to back out -- estimated at $1,800 to repair
4. Rear windshield wiper not working - my daughter is the primary driver and considers this a "must have" -- $300

Total estimated repair cost of $4,200 if they just change the front transfer case fluid. Cost goes up if more is required.

It is crucial they have reliable transportation for the entire family. They don't want a car payment. Trade-in is about $5500 and selling retail is about $7500. If they sold it for $7500 and avoid $4000 in repairs, that gives them $11,500 for a replacement vehicle. Most $11k vehicles are in rough shape.

They very much like it, it works very well for their family needs. It is a gas hog, but they like the size and seating.

If they put $4,200 into it, they really need it to go at least another 100,000 miles.

Are there any other issues they can expect to face? The transmission seems fine. The air conditioning seems fine. The body is in good shape, some rust on the rear quarter panels. The right side step no longer automatically retracts and the rear tail gate opens randomly, so they use the switch to turn it off and prevent that from happening.

Thanks!

 

[solli5pack]

Any chance they want to watch a bunch of YouTube and D.I.Y some of the repairs? I would say it's definitely worth repairing but at those miles a lot of small issues are going to start popping up and if they're going to bring it to a shop every time it's gonna add up quick. And that's if your lucky enough to find a fair reasonable mechanic. If it was well maintained engine and trans should hold up but the A.F.M in the engine is a time bomb that you never know when it will blow. But like you said a used reliable car is well over 20 grand these days. So if they're willing and able to do some repairs in the driveway I would say buy a good tool set and keep it!

 

[Doubeleive]

funny thing in the last month I think I have "accidentally" turned on the rear wiper more times than I have used it in my entire life, lol

anyway, it's cheaper to fix it than purchase something else that may need more or unknown issue's
the 100k is entirely possible but not guaranteed
your estimates are quit high, perhaps shop around....... particularly the exhaust bolts

 

[B-train]

With those miles, needed repairs (you mentioned front transfer case - did you mean front diffential?), rust, and wanting another 100k out of it I would personally sell it as is and look for a southern or western vehicle with less miles and no rust. The corrosion will slowly eat away at their waller as it proceeds to nickel ans dime them for "must haves" like rear A/C, fuel lines, brake lines, added labor at shops for torch time, etc. For $12k you can find quite a few for sale. Shop in a retirement state like FL for a good quantity. AZ, CA, and TX are also good spots from my experience.

 

[solli5pack]

funny thing in the last month I think I have "accidentally" turned on the rear wiper more times than I have used it in my entire life, lol

anyway, it's cheaper to fix it than purchase something else that may need more or unknown issue's
the 100k is entirely possible but not guaranteed
your estimates are quit high, perhaps shop around....... particularly the exhaust bolts

I've always said they should put some kind of light on the dash indicating when the rear wiper is on. My wife drives around for weeks with it on!

 

[Multidriver]

Any chance they want to watch a bunch of YouTube and D.I.Y some of the repairs? I would say it's definitely worth repairing but at those miles a lot of small issues are going to start popping up and if they're going to bring it to a shop every time it's gonna add up quick. And that's if your lucky enough to find a fair reasonable mechanic. If it was well maintained engine and trans should hold up but the A.F.M in the engine is a time bomb that you never know when it will blow. But like you said a used reliable car is well over 20 grand these days. So if they're willing and able to do some repairs in the driveway I would say buy a good tool set and keep it!

He is a decent mechanic and a good body repairman. Main issue is time constraints due to work and family, plus it is starting to get cold and wet where they live. He doesn't have a garage, so he works on it in the driveway and it needs to be driveable most days. I'll recommend YouTube for the exhaust manifold bolts to see if he's up for it. I'd help, but they are over a thousand miles from me. AFM = Automatic Fuel Management system? Any chance it doesn't have that? I've ridden in it numerous times and have not detected it running on half the cylinders. I might not have noticed if it is pretty seamless.

 

[Doubeleive]

I've always said they should put some kind of light on the dash indicating when the rear wiper is on. My wife drives around for weeks with it on!

I washed it the day before yesterday and yesterday I look in the rear view to see the wiper going across !#!@$$ dammit, I keep hitting the button over by accident last 3-4 weeks for some reason....... I swear I have only actually "used" the rear wiper less than 5 times in the last 20 years and it did no good anyway...... I should probably pull the fuse but then the rear glass pop probably wouldn't work which I actually do use....

 

[petethepug]

Welcome from SoCal.

Ok, let’s see here, 2011 AWD flex fuel ESV. It’s huge, heavy & safe. What’s your location? If daughter has e85 / ethanol like over here in SoCal, it makes the difference of a $80 vs. $150 for the 28gal tank. Reasonable on Insurance too.

It’s a 300k+ mile chassis that’s currently undervalued. $1.8k for manifold bolts, motor mounts & a “maybe” to fix a squeak. RUN from that dealer / shop. Find an independent diesel shop that service 4WD trucks. Let them determine the squeaking.

Ex mani bolts typically break. Sometimes a pro has to dig them out, hence… the diesel shop. With exh mani off, motor mounts are ez pz to replace. Start w/ exh mani bolts & mounts for about $900 at diesel Indi shop.

What trim is the truck? Base, Prem, Platinum? If it’s 6.2L L94 motor has made it this far, that’s good. The AFM / DOD in the motor can be turned off. I recommend doing that. Frequent oil changes are this motor’s lifeline. Have the Indi Diesel guy check trans fluid. It’s due for major service every 100k miles.

Start there. Keep the truck. It’s sticker was 70-$87k in 2011 with 400+hp/tq that is never overtaxed by its mass.

 

[intheburbs]

My 2009 Denali (basically same powertrain/running gear as the Escalade) has 150k miles, so I have some experience.

Motor mounts - very common. Already done mine. Might as well do both if you're going to do it.
Exhaust manifold - who cares, unless it's too loud, causes a CEL, or causes it to fail inspection if they live in a fascist state
T-case squeal - might be front diff, too. I've already replaced my front diff.

Front hubs/bearings also probably going to be needing replacement soon. I've also replaced a front axle halfshaft.

Cheap? No. But the devil you know is better than the devil you don't know. I'd say keep it. Stay on top of fluid changes and she'll last a long time.

 

[Multidriver]

I typed a long reply and thought I posted it last night, but I don't see it. He's a pretty decent mechanic but work, wife, kids take up all available time, plus it has to be available for use most days, so he can't afford "oh, need a part, need more time, etc". They are currently in Alaska, moving to NC in a few months, getting wet and cold, he doesn't have a garage so has to work on it in the driveway. He got a second opinion and the other shop came in at close to the same price. I think it is a Premium ESV. He says it doesn't have AFM which sounds like it's a good thing.

If he pays to have the exhaust mani bolts replaced, are there new/different ones that won't break? Is there a recommendation for preventing them from backing out again? He said "transfer case" to me, but it seems likely it's the front differential. It seems like he might get better pricing on the service work once in the lower 48, but they are taking a ferry to Seattle and driving across the country with kids. He wants to minimize risk of a mechanical problem during the trip.

It sounds like it is worth repairing and keeping. And keeping up with maintenance like oil changes.

Any recommendations on service intervals for the transmission and differentials? Just change the transmission fluid? Or flush?

 

[solli5pack]

Pretty sure 2011 Escalade definitely has AFM. The quotes on the manifold bolts seems way inflated. I know some shops speculate that the manifolds are warped causing the bolt problems so sometimes they include new manifolds in the quote. ARP has bolt/stud kits that last forever for around $100. Many of us on this fourm are driving around with busted bolts so if yours aren't leaking bad that can be something that can wait. In the near future they will probably be dealing with coolant leaks, evap issues, door lock actuator failures and air suspension problems. All normal issues. As far as fluid changes just follow manufacturers recommendations. Being in Alaska I'm sure makes everything a little more difficult. I can see why a rear wiper would be helpful.

 

[intheburbs]

Any recommendations on service intervals for the transmission and differentials? Just change the transmission fluid? Or flush?

I do every 50k for trans and axles.

More for the torque converter than the trans. Usually the failure mode is the TC, which then sends shrapnel into the trans.
I do full fluid replacement on the trans - where they tap into it and run fluid through until clean. You end up paying for like 20 quarts.

Rear axle is a bit of a PITA because it doesn't have a drain plug - you have to pop off the cover.

 

[j91z28d1]

1800$ to replace exhaust bolts that have backed out? that's fairly crazy to me.

now if they broke off in the head maybe and if that's the case just buy the 50$ clamp thst bolts on over it. no need to fix the bolts really. unless he feels like putting stronger aftermarket ones in it.


if this is the stock tranny. isn't this thing about over due for a converter to go out?

my honest opinion is he needs to buy a beater car to have around so he can fix stuff as it breaks. having no back up vehicle with a family is always a risk. even with brand new stuff, unless the dealer has a loaner for you, you're out of luck. see it pretty often on the boards. especially these brand new LT engine trucks, I believe gm is about to lose a big class action over them. then he can take his time being a decent mechanic and fix stuff as it breaks. at the very least he needs to disable and block off that afm as soon as possible.

I never feel comfortable unless there's at least one extra vehicle around the house I can trust the wife to jump in and get where she needs to be.

 

[tom3]

I like the idea of a back up car too. Something that gets 30 mpg and somewhat reliable. See Malibu, Cruze, Fusion, lesser Japanese makes in decent shape under 100k miles for $5k or less. Much less sometimes. Won't impress anyone but does the job.

 

[petethepug]

Awesome vehicle for way up North. Separate front & rear heat, 4 heated seats. Start an annual underbody rust prevention treatment asap.

I’d have all the work done in WA to prep it for winter. I didn’t realize you were paying the going rate for AK.

 

[houstontaylor]

If it is just loose exhaust manifold bolts, I just tightened all of mine on my 2003 Chevy Tahoe for about 2 hours of work. The first half hour was for seven of them and the rest was trying to get the driver side rear bolt tightened due to restricted space. I'm glad I noticed they were loose since it could allow exhaust gases to enter the cabin. The prices you're quoting are unbelievable.

 

[j91z28d1]

If it is just loose exhaust manifold bolts, I just tightened all of mine on my 2003 Chevy Tahoe for about 2 hours of work. The first half hour was for seven of them and the rest was trying to get the driver side rear bolt tightened due to restricted space. I'm glad I noticed they were loose since it could allow exhaust gases to enter the cabin. The prices you're quoting are unbelievable.

just as a heads up, the stock bolts are common to snap off and became a hassle. if you find them lose, it's a good time to replace them with something a little stronger than stock.

 

[Geotrash]

just as a heads up, the stock bolts are common to snap off and became a hassle. if you find them lose, it's a good time to replace them with something a little stronger than stock.

Yup. But they're easy to replace if you remove the fender liners and use one of these to drill out and remove any stragglers: https://a.co/d/gamZKKe

 

[petethepug]

You can tell the AK mechanic that offered the $1.8k bid to replace the exh mani bolts had dealt with it on another AK vehicle in the past.

The real Winters in the far North will cycle & snap the OEM exh mani studs in a few seasons. ARP studs are a must. Order them asap to have on hand. Might have to look them up off a 2011 Yukon Denali (same 6.2L motor) to get the part number.

Time is money for the mechanics. They’ve got to be ensured they don’t underbid a job they can predict until it’s apart. Pulling a steel stud from Alum block is a pita. Pulling more than one is a bĩtch.

 

[B-train]

Why not get it on the ferry to Seattle and find a clean version of what they have
Trade the rusty old girl off and drive a clean, lower mileage version to NC. Negotiate some sort of 90 day warranty into the equation to cover the trip across the good old USA.......Viola! Problems solved(?)