'Service Suspension System', 2010 Yukon Denali

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Tim907356

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So I just changed out the rear shocks, after discovering the perforated air bags. My compressor would run whenever it was out of level, but it never threw a code/alert. Now, with the new shocks, they were actually working, leveling the load when we put weight on the rear. However now, maybe 2-3 short trips (<15mi.) I'm getting the 'Service Suspension System' message.
An thoughts as to why? -And if it's just a nuisance message, should the shocks still pump and level as they did earlier in the week??
TIA.
 

j91z28d1

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almost always you knocked the connector loose on top of the frame rail on the passenger side getting to the top bolt.

I knew about it and still did it. if it's not that you'll need a scanner capable of pulling body codes and see what it points to.
 
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As said above. This is common when replacing that shock. The socket/extension rubs against a hidden wire harness connector on the frame rail and usually disconnects it.
 

Doubeleive

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although the noted connector on top of the frame above the shock bolt can be knocked loose that connector is for ABS, which would throw a ABS light
so... I would be double checking the shock harness, pull them both off and inspect to see if maybe a pin got bent or something, also check the ride height sensors and rods to see if maybe one broke or somehow came loose.
you did not mention if you used oem or aftermarket on the rear shocks, if you used aftermarket this could also be a issue.
 
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although the noted connector on top of the frame above the shock bolt can be knocked loose that connector is for ABS, which would throw a ABS light
so... I would be double checking the shock harness, pull them both off and inspect to see if maybe a pin got bent or something, also check the ride height sensors and rods to see if maybe one broke or somehow came loose.
you did not mention if you used oem or aftermarket on the rear shocks, if you used aftermarket this could also be a issue.
Good point. The loose ABS connector may give a Service Stabilitrack error though
 
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Tim907356

Tim907356

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Thanks for the feedback. I knocked off the ABS plug as most do unknowingly, and got the stabiltrack error when the job was completed. The error quite once I connected it back. Nevertheless, I checked the plugs and all were secure. The shocks are aftermarket, so there's that.
Since they worked (pumped up) right after installation, will they continue to operate, or is this message a show stopper?
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I knocked off the ABS plug as most do unknowingly, and got the stabiltrack error when the job was completed. The error quite once I connected it back. Nevertheless, I checked the plugs and all were secure. The shocks are aftermarket, so there's that.
Since they worked (pumped up) right after installation, will they continue to operate, or is this message a show stopper?
if they are passive then you need resistors to make the error message go away, the resistors fool the BCM into thinking all is well.
 

Doubeleive

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here are some economical ones, there may be others that just plug-in instead of having to cut the harness
 
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Tim907356

Tim907356

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For that price, they're OTW Thanks. Will plugging them in instead of the shocks keep the ALS from working?...Thinking after writing, I guess it should not, since the ride height sensors are on the rods. The plugs on the shocks are just to tell the system they're there, I suppose...
Here's the shocks I ordered. They're a direct replacement for what I had; my oem part number is right on the list !?!?

 

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For that price, they're OTW Thanks. Will plugging them in instead of the shocks keep the ALS from working?...Thinking after writing, I guess it should not, since the ride height sensors are on the rods. The plugs on the shocks are just to tell the system they're there, I suppose...
Here's the shocks I ordered. They're a direct replacement for what I had; my oem part number is right on the list !?!?

ya for $83 those are pretty much guaranteed to be passive only, I would bet money if you connected a meter to that connector on the shock it will show a open circuit
 

j91z28d1

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so they are working airbags but passive shocks. huh.

you said the light went out and alls well? I can only guess the connector is on the shock has a resistor in it to trick the mag ride. not a bad idea if so, saves buying external resistors.

do you still have the mag ride shocks up front?
 

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so they are working airbags but passive shocks. huh.

you said the light went out and alls well? I can only guess the connector is on the shock has a resistor in it to trick the mag ride. not a bad idea if so, saves buying external resistors.

do you still have the mag ride shocks up front?
my bet is those connectors are just there to hold the wire and do nothing otherwise, hence the service suspension error, or if they do have resistors built in there garbage resistors.
 

j91z28d1

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my bet is those connectors are just there to hold the wire and do nothing otherwise, hence the service suspension error, or if they do have resistors built in there garbage resistors.

I very well could have misunderstood. if he's still getting codes. you're probably right.


I know money is tight for everyone, but the oem shocks that keep the mag ride are the best option. shame they are so expensive
 
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Tim907356

Tim907356

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Yes I’m still getting the msg. I measured 4.3-4.4ohm across one of them, so the appears to be something there. What info would that device give back, other than ‘the shock is there’?
I bought these cheaply, mostly to test the system and see if everything worked once the bags could hold air. Obviously, they raise as many questions as they answer!
 

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Yes I’m still getting the msg. I measured 4.3-4.4ohm across one of them, so the appears to be something there. What info would that device give back, other than ‘the shock is there’?
I bought these cheaply, mostly to test the system and see if everything worked once the bags could hold air. Obviously, they raise as many questions as they answer!
3.9 Ohm 25 Watt is what is needed, I would think 4.3 is fine, check both shocks to verify they are both reading the same.
 

George B

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BTW
A 3157 turn signal bulb has the right resistance to fool the module. You can use them to be sure the signal to the shocks is present. If the trouble code goes away one of the shocks is bad.

This would be easier to diagnose with a scan tool like a Tech2.
 
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George B

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Here is a good thread on this.


See post #135
 

Fless

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BTW
A 1357 turn signal bulb has the right resistance to fool the module. You can use them to be sure the signal to the shocks is present. If the trouble code goes away one of the shocks is bad.

This would be easier to diagnose with a scan tool like a Tech2.

Do you mean a 3157?
 

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