Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[blackelky]

I love seeing high mileage stuff. I've learned it's cheaper to keep her with no payments.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I'd say maybe 15k or less since the rebuild. I think he might've used the Raybestos Z pack--sounds so familiar--are they no good? I've been kind of rough on the trans tho, not continuously, but I did blow the rearend.
Fluid looked good and didn't smell burned.

Gotcha, rear end blow outs can cause damage to the trans in some cases.

The Z Pack is designed to take what are referred to as dual-sided discs, where you have friction material on one side and bare steel on the other...There's either 12 or 14 separate such discs in each pack and they are very, very thin. I've torn down numerous 700R4s and 4L60Es where that pack was absolutely smoked and no other notable wear or damage to anything else in the transmission. I used it a couple times in high performance builds when I first started rebuilding transmissions and in each case, when the trans came back for a refresh after racing for a year or so, those things were completely charbroiled.

I'll use a 4L65E stack with BW high energy frictions or Alto Reds, Raybestos Reds or GPZ or Alto kevlar-impregnated high energy max packs in the 3-4 for anything real performance oriented. I'll pair those frictions with Kolene or lindered flat steels. If I'm using a Sonnax Smart Tech or Cope Racing forward drum, I have more flexibility insofar as what I can do with the 3-4 pack.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Gotcha, rear end blow outs can cause damage to the trans in some cases.

The Z Pack is designed to take what are referred to as dual-sided discs, where you have friction material on one side and bare steel on the other...There's either 12 or 14 separate such discs in each pack and they are very, very thin. I've torn down numerous 700R4s and 4L60Es where that pack was absolutely smoked and no other notable wear or damage to anything else in the transmission. I used it a couple times in high performance builds when I first started rebuilding transmissions and in each case, when the trans came back for a refresh after racing for a year or so, those things were completely charbroiled.

I'll use a 4L65E stack with BW high energy frictions or Alto Reds, Raybestos Reds or GPZ or Alto kevlar-impregnated high energy max packs in the 3-4 for anything real performance oriented. I'll pair those frictions with Kolene or lindered flat steels. If I'm using a Sonnax Smart Tech or Cope Racing forward drum, I have more flexibility insofar as what I can do with the 3-4 pack.

I really hope it's not anything serious, but with this tahoe it's always the worse case scenario. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I just texted my Trans guy, so hopefully he'll get back to me soon. He's turned into a real flake.
Thanks again Nick.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I really hope it's not anything serious, but with this tahoe it's always the worse case scenario. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I just texted my Trans guy, so hopefully he'll get back to me soon. He's turned into a real flake.
Thanks again Nick.

You're welcome, man...Is your trans still under warranty?

Typically, shops will give one year or 12,000 miles whichever comes first but can vary a bit from shop to shop.

 

[Tonyrodz]

You're welcome, man...Is your trans still under warranty?

Typically, shops will give one year or 12,000 miles whichever comes first but can vary a bit from shop to shop.

Absolutely not lol. It's actually been a few years since I've had it done. Guy that did it, did it out of his boss's shop as a side job.
I haven't put a lot of miles on it because it's always had 1 issue or another. When I finally get it running 100% it gets an issue lol. I swear it hates me.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Does anyone know what's exactly needed to convert to a steering wheel with buttons, from a standard wheel? I have a complete column for any parts that would be needed.

 

[Scottydoggs]

the clock spring for sure. but being your truck didnt not have the radio set up from factory im really unsure the buttons will work. i suppose you could unplug the clock spring under the dash in your truck and count the pins in the truck side plug see if the plug of the new column matches up before spending to much time on it to make sure its got a shot at working.

 

[97YukonNZ]

Does anyone know what's exactly needed to convert to a steering wheel with buttons, from a standard wheel? I have a complete column for any parts that would be needed.

What does it feature?
Volume controls and cruise control? I recon there is probably nothing wrong with the current wheel in the Hoe.
Have you worn out the old 1 hanging on too hard since you got her tuned??
Hahahaha L.m.f.a.o

 

[Rocket Man]

Does anyone know what's exactly needed to convert to a steering wheel with buttons, from a standard wheel? I have a complete column for any parts that would be needed.

What, did ya just find that on the side of the road?

 

[Tonyrodz]

What does it feature?
Volume controls and cruise control? I recon there is probably nothing wrong with the current wheel in the Hoe.
Have you worn out the old 1 hanging on too hard since you got her tuned??
Hahahaha L.m.f.a.o

I really wanted it for the other features, like your mpg, lighting options etc--all the info I can't get otherwise.

 

[97YukonNZ]

I really wanted it for the other features, like your mpg, lighting options etc--all the info I can't get otherwise.

So is it an easy change out? I mean just swap the wheel out and the electricals. Or is it a complete column change out?
Would be good to have the mpg's in reach

 

[Tonyrodz]

So is it an easy change out? I mean just swap the wheel out and the electricals. Or is it a complete column change out?
Would be good to have the mpg's in reach

Still trying to figure it out. I thought it was as simple as changing the clock spring, along with the steering wheel. Still unsure, I haven't been able to research more.

 

[Tonyrodz]

From sitting so long because of the transmission issue, the battery was dead--not weak, DEAD. I jumped it and drove it around and it was fine. Might need it the next few days, supposed to get some snow, but an unknown, if any amount. Gotta try out my winter tires.

 

[89Suburban]

From sitting so long because of the transmission issue, the battery was dead--not weak, DEAD. I jumped it and drove it around and it was fine. Might need it the next few days, supposed to get some snow, but an unknown, if any amount. Gotta try out my winter tires.

My lawn tractor battery died. I charged it and it ran fine. Then it died again next time I went to use it. I went to charge it and it kept shorting out the charger. Battery was toast. It had a 2017 sticker on it so I got my money out of it. Put a new one in it today. All good. Changed the oil and filter nd air filter too. Took her for a ride up the power lines and just got back. she's happy.

 

[Sam Harris]

Still trying to figure it out. I thought it was as simple as changing the clock spring, along with the steering wheel. Still unsure, I haven't been able to research more.

Maybe have a look at this: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/30133-i-got-dic/

 

[Tonyrodz]

That magic number.

 

[Fosscore]

That magic number. View attachment 422411

Wow!

 

[89Suburban]

That magic number. View attachment 422411

Welcome to the 300K club my man!!!

 

[Fless]

That magic number. View attachment 422411

Need to see another pic in 29 miles...

 

[Tonyrodz]

Need to see another pic in 29 miles...

Unfortunately I passed that mark.