Loose steering, I’ve searched, googled replaced front end parts and multiple steering gears

[WWD III]

I’ve searched this site and several more over the years. Along with Facebook groups, Google etc trying to fix my steering on my 97 2 door Z71 with 4 inch lift. I’m not above missing something along the way either.

I’ve had this truck for a long time, my guess 15 years. I’d guess I’ve put 15k miles on it since I bought it. Mainly used it for off-road, hunting etc. Recently started driving it in town and doing some restoration on the truck. The steering was a little loose when I first bought it but as I tried to fix it got worse lol. Shortly after buying it I installed a few front eng parts and different steering gearboxes. Currently have an AGM steering box.

I decided a couple moths back I was going to fix it once and for all. I replaced every front end part on the truck. Ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, pitman arm you name it with brand name parts. Including upper lower control arm bushings. Also complete new Cunningham steering shaft.

Quite a few years back I removed the EVO and installed the bypass kit too.

When we swapped out all the front end parts a few weeks back I had the shop install a Redtop steering box to replace the AGM. Shop said the AGM box was tight, I said swap it anyway. Turned out the RedTop box preload was so far out we called Red Top they told us we could adjust it. We did but couldn’t even drive down the freeway, had to put my old box back in. Sent the box back to RedTop and got my money back.

So I’m back to where I was. We have the preload cranked way the hell down on the AGM box to tighten up the steering. I still has play at freeway speeds. Brand new BFG all terrain tires too. All work done on the front end by a shop in Houston that only does front end work and alignments. Been in business 32 years.

This is what I think. I think I’ve yet to put a good steering box on it. All these RedTop and AGM boxes are rebuilt. I also think even though I bypassed the EVO with the bypass kit, it’s possible I have to much boost. Not sure if I need a non EVO box, I thought 95-98 boxes were all the same. If not hope someone can comment.

My next step is to buy a brand new steering gear, probably a Lares. Chinese or not what I’ve read Lares maybe my best bet. I think they are all made in China now days.

I’ve kicked around in my head taking it to another shop and getting the alignment check. But I doubt that’s it.

I’d like to get comments. I need all the help I can get, thanks Billy

 

[OR VietVet]

Has it ever been aligned? Print outs of before and after readings? Swapped tires?

 

[Marky Dissod]

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Buy once, cry once.

 

[WWD III]

Has it ever been aligned? Print outs of before and after readings? Swapped tires?

Yes, after I had everything replaced I had Alignment and Brakes in Houston alignment the front end. They are supposed to be the best on this side of Houston.

 

[WWD III]

Earlier this afternoon I called Bluetop just for grins to get their take on my issues. Talked to a really nice guy. He offered to tear my box down and find out if anything is wrong with it. In other words make a Blue Top Box out of it for same price as buying one off their website. At least that way I might be able to find out if it’s steering box related. He said they would tell what was good or bad on my box. I very well may do that. I asked RedTop to tear my box down and they wanted a lot more than buying one off their website.

 

[east302]

I’ve searched this site and several more over the years. Along with Facebook groups, Google etc trying to fix my steering on my 97 2 door Z71 with 4 inch lift. I’m not above missing something along the way either.

I’ve had this truck for a long time, my guess 15 years. I’d guess I’ve put 15k miles on it since I bought it. Mainly used it for off-road, hunting etc. Recently started driving it in town and doing some restoration on the truck. The steering was a little loose when I first bought it but as I tried to fix it got worse lol. Shortly after buying it I installed a few front eng parts and different steering gearboxes. Currently have an AGM steering box.

I decided a couple moths back I was going to fix it once and for all. I replaced every front end part on the truck. Ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, pitman arm you name it with brand name parts. Including upper lower control arm bushings. Also complete new Cunningham steering shaft.

Quite a few years back I removed the EVO and installed the bypass kit too.

When we swapped out all the front end parts a few weeks back I had the shop install a Redtop steering box to replace the AGM. Shop said the AGM box was tight, I said swap it anyway. Turned out the RedTop box preload was so far out we called Red Top they told us we could adjust it. We did but couldn’t even drive down the freeway, had to put my old box back in. Sent the box back to RedTop and got my money back.

So I’m back to where I was. We have the preload cranked way the hell down on the AGM box to tighten up the steering. I still has play at freeway speeds. Brand new BFG all terrain tires too. All work done on the front end by a shop in Houston that only does front end work and alignments. Been in business 32 years.

This is what I think. I think I’ve yet to put a good steering box on it. All these RedTop and AGM boxes are rebuilt. I also think even though I bypassed the EVO with the bypass kit, it’s possible I have to much boost. Not sure if I need a non EVO box, I thought 95-98 boxes were all the same. If not hope someone can comment.

My next step is to buy a brand new steering gear, probably a Lares. Chinese or not what I’ve read Lares maybe my best bet. I think they are all made in China now days.

I’ve kicked around in my head taking it to another shop and getting the alignment check. But I doubt that’s it.

I’d like to get comments. I need all the help I can get, thanks Billy

I’m not familiar with the Cunningham steering shaft, but did it include a new rag joint? They’re riveted in at the factory but can be replaced. Check YouTube for videos, but a worn one can impact steering.

I’d tend to agree that the gearbox is worth another look. They did use a different box for EVO and non-EVO.

I have a non-EVO box (Bluetop) in my 98 two-door. It is noticeably heavier steering than the stock one. Subsequently deleting the EVO made no difference in steering feel.

I have a stock gearbox in a 98 Z71 truck. Deleting EVO in that one made no difference in steering feel.

Neither of them wander, require excessive correction or have an annoying dead spot at center. I have had reman aftermarket boxes (Napa house brand and a Delco) that drove like that. Properly adjusted, both should be satisfactory.

The external difference in the EVO and earlier boxes seems to be at the steering shaft connection. The earlier ones have a c-clip and larger opening.

1992-96 K1500: GM part number 26052912

1997-99 K1500: GM #26100345

 

[WWD III]

Cunningham steering shaft.

I’m not familiar with the Cunningham steering shaft, but did it include a new rag joint? They’re riveted in at the factory but can be replaced. Check YouTube for videos, but a worn one can impact steering.

I’d tend to agree that the gearbox is worth another look. They did use a different box for EVO and non-EVO.

I have a non-EVO box (Bluetop) in my 98 two-door. It is noticeably heavier steering than the stock one. Subsequently deleting the EVO made no difference in steering feel.

I have a stock gearbox in a 98 Z71 truck. Deleting EVO in that one made no difference in steering feel.

Neither of them wander, require excessive correction or have an annoying dead spot at center. I have had reman aftermarket boxes (Napa house brand and a Delco) that drove like that. Properly adjusted, both should be satisfactory.

The external difference in the EVO and earlier boxes seems to be at the steering shaft connection. The earlier ones have a c-clip and larger opening.

1992-96 K1500: GM part number 26052912

View attachment 419315

View attachment 419312
View attachment 419313

1997-99 K1500: GM #26100345

View attachment 419316

View attachment 419314

I’m not familiar with the Cunningham steering shaft, but did it include a new rag joint? They’re riveted in at the factory but can be replaced. Check YouTube for videos, but a worn one can impact steering.

I’d tend to agree that the gearbox is worth another look. They did use a different box for EVO and non-EVO.

I have a non-EVO box (Bluetop) in my 98 two-door. It is noticeably heavier steering than the stock one. Subsequently deleting the EVO made no difference in steering feel.

I have a stock gearbox in a 98 Z71 truck. Deleting EVO in that one made no difference in steering feel.

Neither of them wander, require excessive correction or have an annoying dead spot at center. I have had reman aftermarket boxes (Napa house brand and a Delco) that drove like that. Properly adjusted, both should be satisfactory.

The external difference in the EVO and earlier boxes seems to be at the steering shaft connection. The earlier ones have a c-clip and larger opening.

1992-96 K1500: GM part number 26052912

View attachment 419315

View attachment 419312
View attachment 419313

1997-99 K1500: GM #26100345

View attachment 419316

View attachment 419314

Thanks for the comments on EVO vs none. I gleaned from you comments deleting EVO doesn’t necessarily mean lighter steering.

As far as the Cunningham steering shaft, it’s like a Jeep, no rag joint.

I also wondered if a power steering pump could be running too high pressure and causing excessive boost, just a thought. Or even the other way, not e ought boost. I recall years back taking to AGM, they asked me if I had tested my power steering pump. Which I hadn’t, it’s not making any noise doesn’t leak etc.

The loose spot in center of steering is annoying on a Houston freeway. Glad this is a play truck and not a daily driver.

Another thing I need to check out is steering specs for lifted truck vs stock. I may call Rough Country and ask that question, haven’t given that much thought.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I had the opposite experience on my 97 Yukon SLE (RIP). I had the EVO on it, and it was actually dangerous in the way that it would float when moving the steering wheel a bit and then seriously bite, lurching the truck in a side direction. I deleted the EVO, that the truck steered well afterward.

 

[Eman85]

I would evaluate every part on the front end. Upper control arm bushings can deteriorate, also if it's been aligned and they knocked out the upper mount blanks they are bad to not hold if the bolts aren't very tight. The upper control arms can slip back and forth at the adjustment point. Also jack under the lower control arm and then use a prybar on a block of wood and pry upwards on the tire checking the lower ball joint and upper control arms. Idler arms tend to get sloppy also.

 

[WWD III]

I would evaluate every part on the front end. Upper control arm bushings can deteriorate, also if it's been aligned and they knocked out the upper mount blanks they are bad to not hold if the bolts aren't very tight. The upper control arms can slip back and forth at the adjustment point. Also jack under the lower control arm and then use a prybar on a block of wood and pry upwards on the tire checking the lower ball joint and upper control arms. Idler arms tend to get sloppy also.

I did that to get to the point I swapped every front end part on the truck. At 67 I don’t do as much myself as I used to. Shop not far let’s me buy my own parts and they install. I watched those guys fight swapping lower control arm bushings. I am so glad I didn’t try to do that myself. I would have gladly bought new lower control arms like I did for the top but couldn’t find new lowers.

The shop that did my front end alignment found a warn idler arm and pitman arm I thought was good. I had them swap that. As far as I can tell I’ve replaced every moving front end part on my truck. About 12 years back I replaced front wheel bearings, only but 10-15k on the truck since then.

 

[east302]

Thanks for the comments on EVO vs none. I gleaned from you comments deleting EVO doesn’t necessarily mean lighter steering.

In my case, yes - deleting a functioning EVO did not change the steering feel. Now when the EVO sensor on the steering shaft was bad (similar to what @Joseph Garcia mentioned) that raised the pucker factor as it would suddenly “catch” as though hitting a patch of ice.

When I played the “swap the gearbox game”, a bad aftermarket box usually left a large dead spot at center - say no steering reaction between the 11 and 1 o’clock positions. Also, they had very poor return to center during turning. This was surely a reflection of zero quality control from the overseas gearbox “rebuilders”.

The pre-EVO box steering effort just feels closer to manual steering with the EVO box lighter like a 70-80s car if that makes any sense. On-center feel is no different.

Here is the adjustment that the aftermarket companies should be following. Aside from a paint job and some seals, I doubt that many do, though.

 

[Eman85]

I've had plenty of problems out of replacement front hubs, just because something was replaced doesn't mean it's good. More and more I find myself doing the same job over because of inferior parts, some bad out of the box. No such thing as a name brand or quality part anymore. I'm older than you, it's not as much fun as it used to be especially doing the same job over.

 

[Marky Dissod]

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[tenthirty2]

I had an issue with my 2008 Tahoe where the steering wheel was a bit loose in the center. Decided to put in a used steering column. Probably could have just adjusted the set screws in the joint on the column and it would have solved the issues. Similar to this video

 

[PatDTN]

Might be time to revisit the front wheel bearings and pull off the brakes before checking for play in case they're holding things.

 

[JR09country]

Spot balling here:
-new bolts used for install on gear box and idler arm mount?
- no frame cracks or fatigue where the bolts mount for idler and gear box?
- since everything is new I doubt the pitman and idler arm are the issue. But I would check out cognito Motorsports pitman and idler arm supports.

Good luck. I fought my fair share of steering issues on my 1999 nbs.

 

[V327839]

Idler arm bracket? The idler arm bolts to it to hold the drag link level. It’s called “bracket” but it’s actually a shaft in a housing. The housing bolts to the crossmember and the idler arm to the shaft so the arm can rotate passively. I’m just throwing junk out there I haven’t seen mentioned. I guess a bad bracket could let the steering to wiggle a bit?

 

[ZKWBQD]

I’ve searched this site and several more over the years. Along with Facebook groups, Google etc trying to fix my steering on my 97 2 door Z71 with 4 inch lift. I’m not above missing something along the way either.

I’ve had this truck for a long time, my guess 15 years. I’d guess I’ve put 15k miles on it since I bought it. Mainly used it for off-road, hunting etc. Recently started driving it in town and doing some restoration on the truck. The steering was a little loose when I first bought it but as I tried to fix it got worse lol. Shortly after buying it I installed a few front eng parts and different steering gearboxes. Currently have an AGM steering box.

I decided a couple moths back I was going to fix it once and for all. I replaced every front end part on the truck. Ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, pitman arm you name it with brand name parts. Including upper lower control arm bushings. Also complete new Cunningham steering shaft.

Quite a few years back I removed the EVO and installed the bypass kit too.

When we swapped out all the front end parts a few weeks back I had the shop install a Redtop steering box to replace the AGM. Shop said the AGM box was tight, I said swap it anyway. Turned out the RedTop box preload was so far out we called Red Top they told us we could adjust it. We did but couldn’t even drive down the freeway, had to put my old box back in. Sent the box back to RedTop and got my money back.

So I’m back to where I was. We have the preload cranked way the hell down on the AGM box to tighten up the steering. I still has play at freeway speeds. Brand new BFG all terrain tires too. All work done on the front end by a shop in Houston that only does front end work and alignments. Been in business 32 years.

This is what I think. I think I’ve yet to put a good steering box on it. All these RedTop and AGM boxes are rebuilt. I also think even though I bypassed the EVO with the bypass kit, it’s possible I have to much boost. Not sure if I need a non EVO box, I thought 95-98 boxes were all the same. If not hope someone can comment.

My next step is to buy a brand new steering gear, probably a Lares. Chinese or not what I’ve read Lares maybe my best bet. I think they are all made in China now days.

I’ve kicked around in my head taking it to another shop and getting the alignment check. But I doubt that’s it.

I’d like to get comments. I need all the help I can get, thanks Billy

Try searching with DuckDuckGo. Much better search results.

 

[exp500]

Wheel alignment on these trucks is critical! Most shops just set toe and go. There is a very fine balance between Caster and camber available. You sacrifice one for the other, and wind up short on both! Adjustable upper bushings will help this. I'd like to see a way to get 2 degrees more caster.